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I realize there's another thread here about the car wash and the window not closing, but I am posting this here for those who want the fix for the problem.

Yesterday, it started to rain where I live and I tried to auto-up the passenger front window. It went up and then automatically back down to about 1/4 of the way open. Even when I tried manually closing the window (by pulling the window switch only to the first (manual) detent), the window would go up, but as soon as it hit the top (resistance) it bounced back down all the way and then stopped at 1/4 open.

Frustratingly, this was caused by the fact that the window module had "lost its initialization settings" and didn't "know" where "all the way up" is nor where " all the way down " is. So, I had to re-initialize the window. I will give the steps for re-initializing a window below (numbered list)-- Scroll down to LARGE PRINT TITLE BELOW, but first an explanation:

In Summary: the procedure for this requires you to activate the window that's causing the problem AND WHILE THE WINDOW IS ACTUALLY MOVING, to remove power for the window. Once power is removed, it may be restored and then learning is done.

BUT... there are only THREE (3) known ways to remove power to the window: 1) remove one of the battery cables to take power away; 2) pull the fuse for the window causing the problem; or 3) disconnecting the window module cable.
HERE are some notes about those procedures:
1) removing a battery cable means that you need someone else to work with you because you can't run around the car fast enough to pull the battery cable while the window is still moving also, if you remove the battery cable, you will lose power to the entire car causing potential problems with the audio system (forgetting presets, causing "glitches" in its memory etc).
2) pulling the fuse is the easier way (and the method I used since I was alone when doing it) , BUT... in my 2017 Fusion Sport, the fuse panel is located under the steering wheel on the left near the firewall. What happened to the days where a fuse panel was mounted on the side of the dash as you opened the door? Nope... to get to the fuse panel under the dash to the left of the steering wheel requires you to partially detach the front "beauty panel" near where your knees go, and then to reach in with a long pair of needle nose pliers to gently grab the fuse and pull it WHILE the window is moving! Putting that fuse back is also a trick. But this step is the easiest to do when you are alone.
3) disconnecting the window module cable would mean that you would take the entire door panel off to access the window motor area. And this would only be done, realistically, when a window motor or other part would be replaced.

OK... so with all that said.... here's how you do the Re-Initialization procedure:
Window Motor Initialization

  • NOTE: Initialization is required to learn both the full UP and full DOWN positions and the profile of the glass as it travels through the glass channel. Once initialized, obstacle detection is enabled.
  • NOTE: A new (original factory setting) or de-initialized window motor will not operate in one-touch up mode until initialized.
  • NOTE: The window motor must be de-initialized, then initialized whenever the window motor is removed from the window regulator assembly, a new window regulator is installed, a new window glass is installed, a new top run is installed or for any operation in which grease or lubricants are applied to the window regulator or glass run.
  • NOTE: If diagnosing a window switch concern, carry out the window initialization procedure before installing a new window switch.
  • NOTE: All window components (window glass, window regulator, window motor, seals and glass top run) must be installed and tightened to specification before carrying out the initialization procedure.
De-initialization procedure:

  1. Turn the ignition key ON.
  2. Operate the window control switch in one-touch mode (second detent—window button pulled fully UP) and remove power from the window motor while the window is moving , by one of the following methods: A) Disconnect the vehicle battery cable while the window is moving; B) Disconnect the window motor connector while the window is moving; OR..C) Remove the window motor fuse while the window is moving (easiest method when working along) . [you can find what fuse controls which motor/window by looking at the fuse chart in your owners manual]
  3. This will de-initialize the window motor and reset the window motor to its original factory settings.
  4. Re-connect the battery cable, window motor connector or re-install window motor fuse and carry out the initialization procedure to turn the one-touch up feature on.
Initialization procedure:
  • NOTE: The window must be in the full OPEN position for this procedure to operate correctly. So, if it’s in any position other than FULL OPEN, operate the switch manually (first detent) to open it all the way.
  • NOTE: If the initialization procedure is only partially completed, the window motor will remain un-initialized and will not operate in one-touch up mode.
  1. Turn the ignition key ON.
  2. Activate and hold the window control switch in the UP position at the second detent until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds into the glass top run and release the switch.
  3. Activate and hold the window control switch in the DOWN position at the second detent until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds at the bottom of its travel and release the switch.
  4. Test for correct window operation by carrying out the one-touch up and one-touch down features.
MOST LIKELY, you will NOT achieve Auto-Up operation. So… if Auto-Up does NOT work at this point, you NOW have to do these steps:

  1. Lift and HOLD the switch until the window is fully CLOSED, then release the switch.
  2. Lift the switch again for one more second.
  3. Press and HOLD the switch until the window is fully OPEN, then release the switch.
  4. Lift and HOLD the switch until the window is fully CLOSED.
  5. Open the window with Auto-Down and try to close it automatically.
  6. Repeat procedure if the window does not close automatically.
Final thoughts.... the above was a pain in the ass to do. It worked. My window (which was front passenger) now works properly. BUT.. .I kept thinking... what if I was someone non-technical? Someone who was not comfortable pulling fuses, etc? Well.. I guess the only answer is to bring it to the dealer service department.



I have to look to see if there are any TSB's on this. But as for now... this at least will fix the problem.


~~Russ.
Thank you, Thank you. Just picked my car up from the dealership with the same issue but it was rear window. Dealership said problem was the window regulator causing problem and replaced it. Window kept doing the same thing after it was “fixed”. Followed your instructions and -boom- the window works perfectly now.
 

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I'm having a "partial bounce-back" problem after replacing the front-passenger window regulator in my mother-in-law's 2011 Fusion SE. The window tracks full up & down, but on auto-up, it seems to overshoot causing the window to go full up, then open about 2" as if it is going into object-avoidance. Auto-down causes the same overshoot, with a very nasty clicking/grinding noise for about 1/2 second (never a good thing). I've tried the simple "Hold button (up/down) for x seconds" resets, with no success. I still have the door panel removed, so I have access to the Motor connector. I'll lube the window track a bit then try this reset procedure. Hopefully it will save her an expensive trip to the dealer.

Thanks!
 

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I know I'm resurrecting a thread from the dead, but with the newest beta version of FORScan (2.4.2 as of today), you can both re-flash the driver's door module (DDM) and the passenger's door control unit (PDM) and then run the "Power Windows Initialization" service procedure. It was kind of silly to watch the driver's front and rear widows go up and down, up and down, while the service procedure executed. This seems to have dealt with my intermittent bounce back, plus some occasional wind noise from the top rear of the driver's window.
 

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What are you using to flash the PDM and DDM using FORScan? Or are you saying you're just running the initializiation? The initialization will temporarily fix the problem, but you need to use IDS or FJDS to upload the latest firmware onto those modules.
 

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I am using FORScan 2.4.2 - it can now flash modules directly, very nifty! Use at your own risk, etc etc etc, but it's worked well for me so far. It also allows you to load older versions in case a newer version of the firmware does something unpleasant or removes a desired feature.
 

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I am using FORScan 2.4.2 - it can now flash modules directly, very nifty! Use at your own risk, etc etc etc, but it's worked well for me so far. It also allows you to load older versions in case a newer version of the firmware does something unpleasant or removes a desired feature.
Hot damn. I haven't installed it yet, but what is the source of the firmware to load into FORScan? Do you download IDS?
 

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For the "free" license version of FORScan, 2.4.2 attempts to download the firmware from Ford. For the paid "extended" license version, it tries Ford first, and if that's unreachable, reverts to a private repository that the FORScan folks maintain. Pretty nifty - I paid for the "extended" license a while back when I had add keys via PATS to my '99 Ranger, and when Ford's firmware repository was down for the past few days, it was very nice to be able to use the FORScan repository.
 

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I realize there's another thread here about the car wash and the window not closing, but I am posting this here for those who want the fix for the problem.

Yesterday, it started to rain where I live and I tried to auto-up the passenger front window. It went up and then automatically back down to about 1/4 of the way open. Even when I tried manually closing the window (by pulling the window switch only to the first (manual) detent), the window would go up, but as soon as it hit the top (resistance) it bounced back down all the way and then stopped at 1/4 open.

Frustratingly, this was caused by the fact that the window module had "lost its initialization settings" and didn't "know" where "all the way up" is nor where " all the way down " is. So, I had to re-initialize the window. I will give the steps for re-initializing a window below (numbered list)-- Scroll down to LARGE PRINT TITLE BELOW, but first an explanation:

In Summary: the procedure for this requires you to activate the window that's causing the problem AND WHILE THE WINDOW IS ACTUALLY MOVING, to remove power for the window. Once power is removed, it may be restored and then learning is done.

BUT... there are only THREE (3) known ways to remove power to the window: 1) remove one of the battery cables to take power away; 2) pull the fuse for the window causing the problem; or 3) disconnecting the window module cable.
HERE are some notes about those procedures:
1) removing a battery cable means that you need someone else to work with you because you can't run around the car fast enough to pull the battery cable while the window is still moving also, if you remove the battery cable, you will lose power to the entire car causing potential problems with the audio system (forgetting presets, causing "glitches" in its memory etc).
2) pulling the fuse is the easier way (and the method I used since I was alone when doing it) , BUT... in my 2017 Fusion Sport, the fuse panel is located under the steering wheel on the left near the firewall. What happened to the days where a fuse panel was mounted on the side of the dash as you opened the door? Nope... to get to the fuse panel under the dash to the left of the steering wheel requires you to partially detach the front "beauty panel" near where your knees go, and then to reach in with a long pair of needle nose pliers to gently grab the fuse and pull it WHILE the window is moving! Putting that fuse back is also a trick. But this step is the easiest to do when you are alone.
3) disconnecting the window module cable would mean that you would take the entire door panel off to access the window motor area. And this would only be done, realistically, when a window motor or other part would be replaced.

OK... so with all that said.... here's how you do the Re-Initialization procedure:
Window Motor Initialization

  • NOTE: Initialization is required to learn both the full UP and full DOWN positions and the profile of the glass as it travels through the glass channel. Once initialized, obstacle detection is enabled.
  • NOTE: A new (original factory setting) or de-initialized window motor will not operate in one-touch up mode until initialized.
  • NOTE: The window motor must be de-initialized, then initialized whenever the window motor is removed from the window regulator assembly, a new window regulator is installed, a new window glass is installed, a new top run is installed or for any operation in which grease or lubricants are applied to the window regulator or glass run.
  • NOTE: If diagnosing a window switch concern, carry out the window initialization procedure before installing a new window switch.
  • NOTE: All window components (window glass, window regulator, window motor, seals and glass top run) must be installed and tightened to specification before carrying out the initialization procedure.
De-initialization procedure:

  1. Turn the ignition key ON.
  2. Operate the window control switch in one-touch mode (second detent—window button pulled fully UP) and remove power from the window motor while the window is moving , by one of the following methods: A) Disconnect the vehicle battery cable while the window is moving; B) Disconnect the window motor connector while the window is moving; OR..C) Remove the window motor fuse while the window is moving (easiest method when working along) . [you can find what fuse controls which motor/window by looking at the fuse chart in your owners manual]
  3. This will de-initialize the window motor and reset the window motor to its original factory settings.
  4. Re-connect the battery cable, window motor connector or re-install window motor fuse and carry out the initialization procedure to turn the one-touch up feature on.
Initialization procedure:
  • NOTE: The window must be in the full OPEN position for this procedure to operate correctly. So, if it’s in any position other than FULL OPEN, operate the switch manually (first detent) to open it all the way.
  • NOTE: If the initialization procedure is only partially completed, the window motor will remain un-initialized and will not operate in one-touch up mode.
  1. Turn the ignition key ON.
  2. Activate and hold the window control switch in the UP position at the second detent until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds into the glass top run and release the switch.
  3. Activate and hold the window control switch in the DOWN position at the second detent until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds at the bottom of its travel and release the switch.
  4. Test for correct window operation by carrying out the one-touch up and one-touch down features.
MOST LIKELY, you will NOT achieve Auto-Up operation. So… if Auto-Up does NOT work at this point, you NOW have to do these steps:

  1. Lift and HOLD the switch until the window is fully CLOSED, then release the switch.
  2. Lift the switch again for one more second.
  3. Press and HOLD the switch until the window is fully OPEN, then release the switch.
  4. Lift and HOLD the switch until the window is fully CLOSED.
  5. Open the window with Auto-Down and try to close it automatically.
  6. Repeat procedure if the window does not close automatically.
Final thoughts.... the above was a pain in the ass to do. It worked. My window (which was front passenger) now works properly. BUT.. .I kept thinking... what if I was someone non-technical? Someone who was not comfortable pulling fuses, etc? Well.. I guess the only answer is to bring it to the dealer service department.



I have to look to see if there are any TSB's on this. But as for now... this at least will fix the problem.


~~Russ.
Thank you so very much, Russ. All other reset processes did not work and I was going to take it to the dealership until I saw your post! Thank you so very much.....Jonathan
 

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I am using FORScan 2.4.2 - it can now flash modules directly, very nifty! Use at your own risk, etc etc etc, but it's worked well for me so far. It also allows you to load older versions in case a newer version of the firmware does something unpleasant or removes a desired feature.
Okay this is seriously cool. What modules can it update? Does it do all of them? I'd like to flash my car up to the latest code across the board, just because I'm like that.
 

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It can update all the modules that FORScan can see - but I will caution you, it's fairly easy to soft brick a module, especially if, say, your battery charger lead pops off the battery and the voltage sags while you're in the middle of a 45 minute IMPA firmware update 😕. I'm still working on resolving that, so no lane detection or automatic braking for me right now. I'd also make sure you buy a good USB -> OBD / CAN adapter, like the OBDLink EX (OBDLink® EX USB).

However, for stuff like door modules, which take about 30 - 60 seconds to update, it's pretty safe.
 

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It can update all the modules that FORScan can see - but I will caution you, it's fairly easy to soft brick a module, especially if, say, your battery charger lead pops off the battery and the voltage sags while you're in the middle of a 45 minute IMPA firmware update 😕. I'm still working on resolving that, so no lane detection or automatic braking for me right now. I'd also make sure you buy a good USB -> OBD / CAN adapter, like the OBDLink EX (OBDLink® EX USB).

However, for stuff like door modules, which take about 30 - 60 seconds to update, it's pretty safe.
Thanks! OBDLink MX+ Bluetooth adapter here, so I should be all set. I actually just updated the firmware on my OBDLink MX+ a month ago or so I think, so even my adapter has updated firmware. That's a whole other story..... When I updated it originally, the firmware they put out for the OBDLink MX+ was bad, so after I flashed it I lost the ability to read DTCs. That was bad. A few days later they put out a fix and I flashed that on, so it's all good now.
 

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Okay so today I went out to my car and tried a couple of module updates: IPC and PSCM. IPC because I was hoping that with an update it might give me the steering mode controls (steering half of the active suspension/steering controls that the 2018s don't get, but apparently the 2019s get the steering controls at least sometimes), and PSCM (because I was hoping that might enhance the power steering feel with regard to the difference between Sport and Drive, and also maybe enhance the force applied by the Lane Keep system).

In both cases, when I went to update each module, I downloaded the latest code, and......it matched the version I already have. I unchecked the "force flash" box because I didn't see any point in writing my flash memory if it's with the same version. So I guess I won't be doing those two.

I've also considered this some more and, even though I was really excited about flashing everything at first, I'm feeling a little more cautious today. If there's not a real benefit I can see to updating a given module, and/or the risk is too high (like maybe with PCM), I don't think I'll update it. IPMA I'm interested in updating, but seeing what's written above about the IPMA flash not going well for someone else, I'm a little hesitant to try that right now.
 

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I feel your caution is warranted; I'm still working with the FORScan developers to fix a failed flash to my IPMA, so no lane guidance for me. Anyone have a spare camera rain sensing auto dimming mirror assembly they want to sell me cheap hahaha?

I think you can add steering comfort levels to your IPC using the As Built / Configuration settings - you shouldn't need to re-flash. I saw which part it was you had to change somewhere on this forum or a MKZ forum...
 
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