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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I realize there's another thread here about the car wash and the window not closing, but I am posting this here for those who want the fix for the problem.

Yesterday, it started to rain where I live and I tried to auto-up the passenger front window. It went up and then automatically back down to about 1/4 of the way open. Even when I tried manually closing the window (by pulling the window switch only to the first (manual) detent), the window would go up, but as soon as it hit the top (resistance) it bounced back down all the way and then stopped at 1/4 open.

Frustratingly, this was caused by the fact that the window module had "lost its initialization settings" and didn't "know" where "all the way up" is nor where " all the way down " is. So, I had to re-initialize the window. I will give the steps for re-initializing a window below (numbered list)-- Scroll down to LARGE PRINT TITLE BELOW, but first an explanation:

In Summary: the procedure for this requires you to activate the window that's causing the problem AND WHILE THE WINDOW IS ACTUALLY MOVING, to remove power for the window. Once power is removed, it may be restored and then learning is done.

BUT... there are only THREE (3) known ways to remove power to the window: 1) remove one of the battery cables to take power away; 2) pull the fuse for the window causing the problem; or 3) disconnecting the window module cable.
HERE are some notes about those procedures:
1) removing a battery cable means that you need someone else to work with you because you can't run around the car fast enough to pull the battery cable while the window is still moving also, if you remove the battery cable, you will lose power to the entire car causing potential problems with the audio system (forgetting presets, causing "glitches" in its memory etc).
2) pulling the fuse is the easier way (and the method I used since I was alone when doing it) , BUT... in my 2017 Fusion Sport, the fuse panel is located under the steering wheel on the left near the firewall. What happened to the days where a fuse panel was mounted on the side of the dash as you opened the door? Nope... to get to the fuse panel under the dash to the left of the steering wheel requires you to partially detach the front "beauty panel" near where your knees go, and then to reach in with a long pair of needle nose pliers to gently grab the fuse and pull it WHILE the window is moving! Putting that fuse back is also a trick. But this step is the easiest to do when you are alone.
3) disconnecting the window module cable would mean that you would take the entire door panel off to access the window motor area. And this would only be done, realistically, when a window motor or other part would be replaced.

OK... so with all that said.... here's how you do the Re-Initialization procedure:
Window Motor Initialization

  • NOTE: Initialization is required to learn both the full UP and full DOWN positions and the profile of the glass as it travels through the glass channel. Once initialized, obstacle detection is enabled.
  • NOTE: A new (original factory setting) or de-initialized window motor will not operate in one-touch up mode until initialized.
  • NOTE: The window motor must be de-initialized, then initialized whenever the window motor is removed from the window regulator assembly, a new window regulator is installed, a new window glass is installed, a new top run is installed or for any operation in which grease or lubricants are applied to the window regulator or glass run.
  • NOTE: If diagnosing a window switch concern, carry out the window initialization procedure before installing a new window switch.
  • NOTE: All window components (window glass, window regulator, window motor, seals and glass top run) must be installed and tightened to specification before carrying out the initialization procedure.
De-initialization procedure:

  1. Turn the ignition key ON.
  2. Operate the window control switch in one-touch mode (second detent—window button pulled fully UP) and remove power from the window motor while the window is moving , by one of the following methods: A) Disconnect the vehicle battery cable while the window is moving; B) Disconnect the window motor connector while the window is moving; OR..C) Remove the window motor fuse while the window is moving (easiest method when working along) . [you can find what fuse controls which motor/window by looking at the fuse chart in your owners manual]
  3. This will de-initialize the window motor and reset the window motor to its original factory settings.
  4. Re-connect the battery cable, window motor connector or re-install window motor fuse and carry out the initialization procedure to turn the one-touch up feature on.
Initialization procedure:
  • NOTE: The window must be in the full OPEN position for this procedure to operate correctly. So, if it’s in any position other than FULL OPEN, operate the switch manually (first detent) to open it all the way.
  • NOTE: If the initialization procedure is only partially completed, the window motor will remain un-initialized and will not operate in one-touch up mode.
  1. Turn the ignition key ON.
  2. Activate and hold the window control switch in the UP position at the second detent until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds into the glass top run and release the switch.
  3. Activate and hold the window control switch in the DOWN position at the second detent until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds at the bottom of its travel and release the switch.
  4. Test for correct window operation by carrying out the one-touch up and one-touch down features.
MOST LIKELY, you will NOT achieve Auto-Up operation. So… if Auto-Up does NOT work at this point, you NOW have to do these steps:

  1. Lift and HOLD the switch until the window is fully CLOSED, then release the switch.
  2. Lift the switch again for one more second.
  3. Press and HOLD the switch until the window is fully OPEN, then release the switch.
  4. Lift and HOLD the switch until the window is fully CLOSED.
  5. Open the window with Auto-Down and try to close it automatically.
  6. Repeat procedure if the window does not close automatically.
Final thoughts.... the above was a pain in the ass to do. It worked. My window (which was front passenger) now works properly. BUT.. .I kept thinking... what if I was someone non-technical? Someone who was not comfortable pulling fuses, etc? Well.. I guess the only answer is to bring it to the dealer service department.



I have to look to see if there are any TSB's on this. But as for now... this at least will fix the problem.


~~Russ.
 

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I fixed mine a couple of weeks ago (the second time this has happned by the way) by simply holding up on the switch and the window bouced back down. I immediately held up again until it bounced down but after 3-4 times I finally got it to stay at the top and held it therefor a few seconds then made it go all the way and held it for a few seconds and got the window to reset. I mostly followed the instructions from the same thread you are referencing with the car wash incident. First time I took it to Ford and the service invoice showed they had pulled power, so they probably did what you said above.
 
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I just went to the actual window that was acting up and did the learn procedure there. It wasn't working while trying to do it from the driver control. At the window it worked the first shot.
 
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THANK YOU RussW!!!

The procedure you listed above finally fixed my window issue after 3 months!

I tried everything, all the learning procedures in the world would not get my Auto-up to re-enable. A couple of times my windows would actually lock me out of the controls and not roll down for about 5 mins.(I was told they do that to prevent overheating.) I even took it to the dealer once for this and a few other small fix items and the window did not get fixed that trip. Very aggravating.

I've seen this procedure once on a Focus? forum(I think) but was weary of trying anything just because it worked on another vehicle. Once I saw that someone with the FuSpo had verified this worked I was super excited. Tried it last night, work like a charm.

Thank you very much, kind sir! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You are very welcome, PDXMJ82! I had tried almost everything, including what RCMUSTANG suggested, and it didn't work for me. So, I decided to "roll up the sleeves" and "put the thinking cap on". I work as IT Coordinator (in charge of computers, technology, etc) at my local library and finally thought... there are TOO MANY computer components in this car that don't really talk to one another properly and this new window "obstruction" sensor/bounce back feature is just another computer function. I figured that my passenger front window must have "learned" something incorrectly. And after much research, I came up with the procedure that I posted at the top of this thread.

Of course, for those owners of the Sport Fusion who don't want to get "down and dirty" to do this.... then the best option is to bring it to Ford Service and tell them you want whatever window is causing the problem to be FULLY RE-INITIALIZED. They will essentially do the same procedure as stated above.
 

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I just fixed my windows. Everything went perfect except for the auto up re-learn. I was able to find a procedure that worked to get auto up done

Thanks very much for the procedure!

Whoever put that fuse-box way up there where it is nearly impossible to see or get to should be fired!
 

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I could not get the window to rel-learn the auto-up feature. No a big deal, as I don't really use it, and the bounce back is fixed.

Anyone else try a different auto-up relearn procedure, and if so what is it?
 

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My 2017 Fusion Sport does this intermittently, especially with either front window. Sometimes I can fix it on the fly by holding the DOWN button on the driver side and then it will roll up. But that's a 40% probability of success. The passenger side is almost 0%. It gets painful on the freeway when it doesn't want to roll up because of the air pressure waves coming into the cabin.

I found the sure fire way to fix this is to shut off the car and then restart. But because we have the safety interlock requiring pressing the brake pedal and pushing the start button, I can't really do this on the freeway.

One time I manually forced the window up by really gripping the surface and pushing it out and up. The module didn't like that at all and refused to work at all for about 15 minutes. Then it started taking commands.
 

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There will be a period of time where the windows are fine for like a month or two, then the problem rears its head again. I just don't use the windows now and run the A/C (which works very well). The sunroof exhibits similar behavior when closing, but that fix is easy - just hold the close button. Again, my fix is to not use the windows at all unless absolutely necessary. Luckily my 2018 Explorer XLT is the base model and doesn't have the advanced craptastic window modules and just has the basic units. The 2018 Kia Rio is still available with rollup windows. Those are looking mighty nice these days.
 

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I took my car to the dealer to get this issue fixed and told them about the TSB.
They ran the update and could not get the window module programmed and ended up having to replace and program the new module.
 

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Ford has had constant problems with the window modules on the Fusion ever since the 2013 model. I know people that have had similar issues from 2013-2016.
 

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While getting the steering wheel bolt recall done, I had them reprogram my windows per the TSB and they all work correctly now.

This problem is mega annoying, doubly so on the days it rains.
 

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I did the first part of RussW procedure on all 4 windows of pulling the fuse as the window goes down and left it that way. Now they all auto down and I hold the switch for up just like my 2012 Fusion, 100% after three months and no trip to the dealer.
 

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Not having the bounce back issue but my rear auto up windows are not working. Mainly the rear driver side. They auto down but when pressing up they stop whenever I release. Is there a fix/bulletin for this ? Car is going in Monday am for ACM update.
 

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I went to the local dealer (from whom I got the 2017 FSport) and pointed out the issues I'm having with the windows bouncing back. They said I needed to make an appointment or leave my car for 3 days. The earliest appointment date is at least 1 week out, and they need the car for the whole day. But they can swap out the steering wheel bolt for the recall in 15 minutes, yet need a full day to plug the IDS into the OBD2 port... The technician said the window issue is a common problem on the Fusions, and that he's had to replace more door modules than just reprogram them. Whether it is BS or not is unknown to me. Sounds like they'd make more money replacing "faulty" door modules versus just reprogramming them.


I rolled down the passenger front window this morning and boy what a mistake, it won't stay up now. Luckily there's no rain in the forecast.
 

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Update: I was able to get the DDM and PDM updated on my 2017 FSport (Build date JAN 2017). The DDM and PDM software revisions ended with a -P while the latest IDS 114.03 had them end with a -R. My dad's 2017 FSport (Build date of MAY 2017) already came with the -R and he never had any issues with the window bounce back.


My dealer also said that most of the time they had to replace the actual modules and never had much luck reprogramming them. Well, it took about 5-10 minutes total on mine.


The ACM, IPC, and PCM also had updates. The IPC and PCM both take a very long time. The PCM revision was maybe 2 years different (Hxxx prefix stock, Kxxx prefix with the latest). I'm not sure what Ford changed on it just yet.


UPDATE: The latest PCM update for the 2017 FSport just changed the O2 sensor tip temperature table and some DTC reporting settings. The stock O2 sensor tip temp table was corrected. I didn't see any other major changes.
 

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Even with the latest DDM, the driver window still drops slightly over time. I only noticed this when I was driving in the rain and got a few drops on my left arm. Both front windows have a tendency to do this, and I often have to click the button up a few times for it to relearn the up position. Has anyone else encountered this?
 
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