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Well I had a chance to try out the new Quickjack and what better way then to change the RDU fluid.
I had a 3/8" T40 socket but as it's been noted here there is very little room to get to the T40 plug
Ran to Lowes and grabbed a T40 bit like the one pictured, ended up rounding off the wrench.
My plug is pretty much welded in.
I soaked it in WD40, tried heating the housing around the plug, nothing.
Resoaked it with WD-40, I'll give it a go at the next oil change or when I change the transmission fluid in a few weeks.
 

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Has anyone ever gotten burnt fluid out of the rear diff? I changed the oil in my SHO rear diff at 30k and it looked brand spanking new. I've never had a rear diff overheat in a RWD application as most are open diff or clutch LSD.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Has anyone ever gotten burnt fluid out of the rear diff? I changed the oil in my SHO rear diff at 30k and it looked brand spanking new. I've never had a rear diff overheat in a RWD application as most are open diff or clutch LSD.
Look at the first post with the fluid I pumped out. It didn't look burnt but there was a crap load of shavings. The second change looked almost as bad.

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Discussion Starter #24
Well I had a chance to try out the new Quickjack and what better way then to change the RDU fluid.

I had a 3/8" T40 socket but as it's been noted here there is very little room to get to the T40 plug

Ran to Lowes and grabbed a T40 bit like the one pictured, ended up rounding off the wrench.

My plug is pretty much welded in.

I soaked it in WD40, tried heating the housing around the plug, nothing.

Resoaked it with WD-40, I'll give it a go at the next oil change or when I change the transmission fluid in a few weeks.
I used a Matco bit but it was the larger shank and not the smaller 1/4" size and I still managed to twist the flutes. But it did have the hole drilled in the middle for the tamper resistant bolts

This reminds me, I need to have my brother order me one

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I removed the rear plug and there is a magnet pressed into it, I cleaned it off, but I stuck my finger in the hole and didn't feel any fluid, I don't know how
far down it is in the case. kinda hard for the magnet to work efficiently when there's not a whole lot of fluid in there, I'm sure it
gets sloshed around but still.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'm thinking the L wrenchs would fit and your could slide a pipe over the end for extra leverage.

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Is this in line with OEM specs?

Red Line (50204) SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant - 1 Quart

No. That is both the wrong weight and wrong spec/application.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Amazon to the rescue

I brought it to work today, I'm going to have a machinist drill out a piece of 1/2"

aluminum round and somewhat press it in
Or just stick it in the end of a deep well socket and put a long extension on it.

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L key with with extension did the trick and my Mighty vac worked like a champ, I removed around 16 ounces of old fluid.
It did start leaking out when I removed the fill hole plug, I caught that fluid as well to make sure I was measuring correctly.
Not that it mattered much since it is filled until it runs out the fill level hole.
 

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I wonder if this T40 offset driver would fit the clearance. Just thought about it today but haven't tried or bought anything. If these oem bolts are really Torx-plus like the PTU one is then maybe it would strip easily as others have had trouble with in the past.




Maybe this one it says it has torx-plus bits but not as slim.
 

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Discussion Starter #34

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Just to give you a reference as to how tight the plug is from the factory, I broke the closed end of a 1/4" combo wrench and twisted the flutes of a Matco torxs Plus tamper bit.
I did the same thing. Broke one of my original 1/4" "forged in USA" Craftsman wrenches. I then twisted off one of my Chinesium Craftsman Torx bits. Then I opted for a higher quality (more expensive, but likely made in the same factory) torx and two Amazon combination wrenches with a lifetime warranty. I put both wrenches over the torx bit, then slid an 18" long pipe over the end of both wrenches and it came loose.

Needless to say, I put some anti-seize on the plug before going back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I did the same thing. Broke one of my original 1/4" "forged in USA" Craftsman wrenches. I then twisted off one of my Chinesium Craftsman Torx bits. Then I opted for a higher quality (more expensive, but likely made in the same factory) torx and two Amazon combination wrenches with a lifetime warranty. I put both wrenches over the torx bit, then slid an 18" long pipe over the end of both wrenches and it came loose.

Needless to say, I put some anti-seize on the plug before going back in.
I put thread sealant on it since I was worried about leaking. I suspect Ford put some sort of thread locker on it.

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Finally got to this on my Corona "vacation". Punched a T-40 bit out
of my HF, 1/2 drive Torx set.........


Used with a 5/16 wrench and 3 foot cheater bar



Wrenching enough years to know when you are on the verge of breaking something, so
that plug was going to be a nogo, unless I found some really unique, ultra strength, T-40 bit.

Plug in rear diff came right out. Decided to just do it without level plug opening. First thing I did was
make a "dipstick" with a cut off piece of a metal hanger spray painted with grey primer



Level is right around 1/2 inch below bottom of fill plug opening.



Added fill line



Made a copper suction line, just couldn't find any flexible tubing that could be forced all the way down
to bottom of diff.






Pumped out 15 or so Oz's




Pumped back in the same amount, based on markings off quart bottle.



Cleaned up gunk/shavings on magnet



Checked with dipstick, good to go. :)
 

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Red loctite?
 

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It's the semi-hard stuff Ford usually uses for drain/fill plugs.

I recommend Permatex's purple thread sealant. It works a lot better than PTFE sealant or tape for sealing fluids/air, is stronger than blue/green/yellow threadlocker, and actually stays put but is also removable without heat. The people in the house are super abusive with the kitchen sink faucet handle to the point the set-screw on the handle always vibrated loose even with blue threadlocker. I put a tab of purple on there, and it has been secure for over a year. I first used this for some kind of hydraulics project or plumbing project.
 
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