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That 3.0 should be pushing out 600 hp with a full tune unless Ford used different turbos on the Explorer ST. I would love to get ahold of a stock HPTuners PCM read for a MKZ 3.0
We've found the transverse ecoboost engines use different turbos vs their longitude mounted counterparts

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We've found the transverse ecoboost engines use different turbos vs their longitude mounted counterparts

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If you have the stock read the MKZ/Conti 3.0, I'd love to see it.

The 3.5L EcoBoost differs greatly between the car/SUV and the trucks.

However the 2.7 transverse and longitudinal have different turbos/packaging, but the compressor map data is the same with the exception of turbine speed lines, and the VE Modeling is the same. A lot of the engine parts are the same as well. The max air mass flow from the truck 2.7 seems to coincide with the Fusion/Edge 2.7 although the bigger intercoolers on the truck are going to be of a benefit.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Got the wheels mounted, tires and total package feels great. The lighter wheels definitely help the car get moving, respond, etc. And these tires are 1,000,000x better than the Uniroyals the dealer had on here. (not surpised - but the car feels like a new animal entirely). Additionally, the offset is great. very close to flush at the front and rear. So I am hoping after the car is lowered I wont have any rubbing issues.

Waiting for some install parts to arrive for the spring & sway bar install. Should firm up the car, imporve the stance/appearance, and dial in the overall handling package.

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I'd only go with Conti DWS06's in the future. These tires are frigging tough like tanks. I have never seen a tire take so much abuse and come out usable... My girlfriend ran her DWS06 beyond the wear bars to the point they were almost bald. 2 of them were slowly losing air, one developed a bubble and air was leaking out the sidewall from the bubble corner but this was near their last miles. She has hit numerous potholes. Previously she had Good-for-a-year LS's (factory equipped) and went through 5 tires in the same season I lost two of the factory Badyears on my Fusion Sport - all due to potholes. She has lost zero of her DWS06's even after hitting several nasty ones. She now has a set of brand new DWS-06s and managed to hit a curb so hard that it shear off part of the rim at the bead of the tire, tore off a driveaxle completely off the trans/diff, bent the forged aluminum front control arm, etc... and the DWS-06 tire was fully inflated and ready to roll.
Tread was totally torn up from the curb but held air, had zero bubbles, and she's still using it until the shop has a replacement (tire protection plan). Last year, I pushed her car hard on the Tail of the Dragon, and only towards the last 10%-15% of the Tail did her tires start to squirm a bit and the brakes started to fade - but it still felt confident, I just didn't want to push it too hard for no good reason. Overall after I saw how much abuse her tires took and kept working in snow/ice and rain, I'd recommend them unless its for pure track duty.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
LOL metro - might wanna look into some driving tutorials or pothole awareness work with her :) Thats a lot of data points! DWS06 are actually my favortie tire. Have them on 2 cars of mine and on my last MKZ. They are a great all around tire and Ill likely do them again. So far loving the 4S but if I dont get the use out of them they are meant for ill likely downgrade to a HPAll-season. Good to hear another +1 on the dws06 as it has always been a personal bias/favorite of mine.

and thanks my27!
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Did my first oil change last weekend, using Motorcraft filter and some Amsoil. Loved the filter being up on top.

**Question on the drain/pan though - I have what seems to be a decent amount of seepage/oil stains on the hoenycomb pan. Everything above looks dry, and it wasn't painfully obivous that a leak was present at the drain plug. O-ring looked good and no spots on the driveway after the car sits/idles. Wondering if wet oilpan is common issue?
 
I was just under my MKZ this past weekend installing the RMM and noticed the same thing, oil on the pan. No drips on the driveway or on the felt underbody cover. I did buy extra plugs to give to the oil place when I get it changed if the old ones seal is shot.

My pan was already replaced under warranty at 11k miles right when I bought it too.

Did my first oil change last weekend, using Motorcraft filter and some Amsoil. Loved the filter being up on top.

**Question on the drain/pan though - I have what seems to be a decent amount of seepage/oil stains on the hoenycomb pan. Everything above looks dry, and it wasn't painfully obivous that a leak was present at the drain plug. O-ring looked good and no spots on the driveway after the car sits/idles. Wondering if wet oilpan is common issue?
 
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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Finished the spring, sway, and CP-e RMM install last weekend. Car feels, and looks GREAT. Super planted and capable in corners. The RMM has also greatly improved engagement of both launch and shifts. Will likely adjust the idle rpm via SCT X4 though to see if I can mediate the NVH at idle as it is a bit more noticeable than I had anticipated.

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Before & After:
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Couple other shots:
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owns 2017 Ford Fusion Sport 401A
...Will likely adjust the idle rpm via SCT X4 though to see if I can mediate the NVH at idle as it is a bit more noticeable than I had anticipated.
I too have the CP-e RMM, and there was noticeable vibration at idle when first installed, and the vibration was certainly more than I expected. However, with time the idle vibration has disappeared. If you give it some time, it may not be necessary to adjust the idle rpm.
 
That's what happens when you get stiffer mounts. Try turning on the A/C, that usually makes a bit more vibration. I had to install some new mounts for my Cobalt SS Turbo because the axle hop was violent during launches to the point my rear view mirror would droop all the way down. Turns out the axle driveline angle was intended for the automatic and not the Saab F35 manual used in the SS Turbo. With the Powell mounts, it would rotate the powertrain to the right angle but it was also a stiffer compound than stock. The result was more vibes at idle, and turning on the A/C would create an additional grumble.

I added stiffer motor mounts on my S197 Mustang GT, and the same thing happened. I was trying to eliminate as much deflection as possible during WOT manual shifts. On that V8, the engine vibes actually sounded great through the chassis because of the stiffer mounts. It amplified the engine note.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Small update - nothing added to the car recently, but was able to get a 12.6 pass out of her a few weeks back. Car def has more in it, but my traps were low. So either shift points, heat, or tuning. Not too concerned about it as it rips on the street. Might do fueling or exhaust in the spring, but love how the car drives as is and really cannot complain.

Tomorrow I put stock wheels back on for winter, and since the install the car has settled a bit, quite nicely on the H&R's. Took a few pics today, thanks for checking in!

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Discussion starter · #37 ·
@19sport still about the same. I have gotten more used to it, and it might be placebo, but on humid or wet/rainy days it seems worse. Ill likely leave it in thought as the pros outweigh the cons for me.
 
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I'd only go with Conti DWS06's in the future. These tires are frigging tough like tanks. I have never seen a tire take so much abuse and come out usable... My girlfriend ran her DWS06 beyond the wear bars to the point they were almost bald. 2 of them were slowly losing air, one developed a bubble and air was leaking out the sidewall from the bubble corner but this was near their last miles. She has hit numerous potholes. Previously she had Good-for-a-year LS's (factory equipped) and went through 5 tires in the same season I lost two of the factory Badyears on my Fusion Sport - all due to potholes. She has lost zero of her DWS06's even after hitting several nasty ones. She now has a set of brand new DWS-06s and managed to hit a curb so hard that it shear off part of the rim at the bead of the tire, tore off a driveaxle completely off the trans/diff, bent the forged aluminum front control arm, etc... and the DWS-06 tire was fully inflated and ready to roll.
Tread was totally torn up from the curb but held air, had zero bubbles, and she's still using it until the shop has a replacement (tire protection plan). Last year, I pushed her car hard on the Tail of the Dragon, and only towards the last 10%-15% of the Tail did her tires start to squirm a bit and the brakes started to fade - but it still felt confident, I just didn't want to push it too hard for no good reason. Overall after I saw how much abuse her tires took and kept working in snow/ice and rain, I'd recommend them unless its for pure track duty.
Are you kidding me. That women sounds insane. I think your marrying my ex.. 😂😂😂
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Got the lower bumper trim, door trim and rear bumper trim blacked out (Vinyl) - Might end up doing door handles and mirror bases too. But I like the grill as is for now. Let me know what you all think.

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I am not liking the fog lights / lower DRL's on this car. It clashes with the "solid/diffused" DRL's in the headlight housings. Im wondering If I can cover the lenses and avoid the light bleeding, or if there is a better way to turn these off permanently. I have the option in the cluster for it, but it seems to go back to normal after a while and I think they still come on with the headlights. Anyone know if I can get ForScan and permanently disable them? As far as I know all 2017+ MKZ's have them, so I might have to look at fusion coding and go from there unless there is an easier way. (unplug? lol - likely will get a code for this though)
 
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