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Tuned MKZs are around 400whp without any issues, as far as I know.

This is why I went with a conservative tune and stopped there. Daily driver and all...
Yeah I'm the same way. I don't want to go crazy, I just wanted to make my car a little more fun. It's great stock, but I just wanted a little more. But I need it to last. I don't want to break anything.
 

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I’d say I’m abusing mine, and although the transmission leaks, it’s not making metal, and the PTU and rear diff haven’t made any metal other than what you’d call normal. Perhaps it’s a combination of being conservatively rated/slightly overbuilt and the actual build quality keeping them alive.
 

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2017 Fusion Sport, 401A, Driver Assistance Package, 33k miles; 1999 Expedition 5.4 4x4
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Meaning what, it is way overdesigned for any car? They only nannied it up in Fusion due to drivetrain limits.
F150's doing 550/560 @ wheels with E30, turbos, and bolt ons. That's with very little, if any, loss in spool (supposedly).
Very hard to do that with a single turbo.

The days of thinking a high power, lower RPM is for trucks are over. Look at beamers, their torque peaks start @ 1300 RPM
in their cars, many times these days.
I didn't mean to imply the 2.7 isn't capable of massive power. Just that it was likely purposely detuned from it's true potential in the interest of drivetrain reliability.

That being said they are very good motors and with 3k to 5k oil intervals prolly don't mind the extra 50-100HP they can make.

I wouldn't trust this motor to do 10k oil changes at 400HP tho.
 

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The stock 6R55 is suppose to be good for around 600 650 lbs torque, with good tuning.
 
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I didn't mean to imply the 2.7 isn't capable of massive power. Just that it was likely purposely detuned from it's true potential in the interest of drivetrain reliability.

That being said they are very good motors and with 3k to 5k oil intervals prolly don't mind the extra 50-100HP they can make.

I wouldn't trust this motor to do 10k oil changes at 400HP tho.
They can be tuned to put out a LOT more than 50-100 extra HP. We have guys on this forum who are running 500s crank. So that's at least (bare minimum) 175 over stock. But if I remember right some of them are running mid, even high 500s in some cases. Now those guys are running upgraded turbos, intercoolers, etc. But my point is the motor can handle a whole lot more than the stock 325 crank. Way more. Of course as always, you're cutting into the safety margin when you do that so you have to be careful, and understand if something goes wrong it's on you.

But yeah more frequent oil changes than 10k would be a really good idea for anyone doing that :)
 

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The stock 6R55 is suppose to be good for around 600 650 lbs torque, with good tuning.
Do you know how similar the components, build quality, ratings, etc. are between the front wheel drive unit we have, and that rear drive unit?

Where do you think our weak point is? I guess it would be good to know the driveline max safe torque but it's not really public. All I can do is look at all the guys running really high power and figure someone who runs 450 or so is pretty safe.
 

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Transfer case seems to be the weak like at this point, I know there were some issues with the torque convertor, but not sure how bad those are.
 

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You mean the PTU? I know it stands for Power Transfer Unit but it's still really weird seeing it called a transfer case like it's a truck 🤣
 

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This past Thursday there was a F150 standard cab, short bed, 2wd Sport with a tuned 2.7 that was running low 12.50s while spinning the tires through the 60 foot lights. He seemed completely unaffected by the 87 degree heat that added half a second to my E.T.s - I wish we had done way too better cool the engine compartment. I think the average truly high-output sedan out there is doing a much better job of heat management than our Fusions are capable of.
Well, IC upgrades in those can be huge, more like diesel pickup sizes.

2017-2020 2.7L/3.5L F150/Raptor EcoBoost Cobb Silver Front Mount Intercooler 7F2500-SL - 5 Star Tuning
 

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You mean the PTU? I know it stands for Power Transfer Unit but it's still really weird seeing it called a transfer case like it's a truck 🤣
Front gear box is a PTU ( Power Take Off ) , rear is the transfer case. That's where the AWD is turned on n off, there's a clutch at the front where the drive shaft bolts up, then from there into the diff section. The clutch will only handle so much torque before it starts slipping, that's what people are talking about, when you hear them wanting a upgraded clutch for the transfer case.
 

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Front gear box is a PTU ( Power Take Off ) , rear is the transfer case. That's where the AWD is turned on n off, there's a clutch at the front where the drive shaft bolts up, then from there into the diff section. The clutch will only handle so much torque before it starts slipping, that's what people are talking about, when you hear them wanting a upgraded clutch for the transfer case.
Err... I think there's a difference in terminology here. The diff towards the front is the PTU (Power Transfer Unit) and the one towards the rear is the RDU (Rear Drive Unit). The PTU is the one that sends power to the rear - the RDU just vectors it side-to-side across the rear wheels (and doesn't do it very well). The PTU is a kind of "transfer case" I suppose but I've never heard that phrase used for anything other than trucks and SUVs with low range.
 

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Thats where I’m living these days too but, man… that E50/WMI tune was so much fun!
Hey @Hootushead !

How's the new motor working out? Sounds like it's running well. Do you have any handle on how much power (either crank or wheel) you were running before, vs now? Just curious. I think you said you were running Unleashed so I don't know if you'd know exactly what you were/are putting out, but I'm betting it was pretty high before. I'm also always interested in what people are considering safe mild tunes for dailys as well, since my car is a daily.
 

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Err... I think there's a difference in terminology here. The diff towards the front is the PTU (Power Transfer Unit) and the one towards the rear is the RDU (Rear Drive Unit). The PTU is the one that sends power to the rear - the RDU just vectors it side-to-side across the rear wheels (and doesn't do it very well). The PTU is a kind of "transfer case" I suppose but I've never heard that phrase used for anything other than trucks and SUVs with low range.
Well you learn something new every day, I suppose you could call it RDU, but I've talked to Ford techs and some called it a RDU, others a transfer case. You only have AWD till 29 mph, then it's turned off unless a front wheel spins fast than a rear, or you drop back below 29. One nice thing about doing your own tuning, you can go into the AWD section and change things around some. Raise or lower the mph it turns off the rear, it think you can also change front to back ratio when it's in AWD. I know stock they system favors the front, but you could set it up say 50/50 or send more to the back, not sure it would handle it though. The axles in the back are tiny.
 
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Well you learn something new every day, I suppose you could call it RDU, but I've talked to Ford techs and some called it a RDU, others a transfer case. You only have AWD till 29 mph, then it's turned off unless a front wheel spins fast than a rear, or you drop back below 29. One nice thing about doing your own tuning, you can go into the AWD section and change things around some. Raise or lower the mph it turns off the rear, it think you can also change front to back ratio when it's in AWD. I know stock they system favors the front, but you could set it up say 50/50 or send more to the back, not sure it would handle it though. The axles in the back are tiny.
Yep see that sounds like what I was talking about before with the PTU. It looks like "AWD Mode 0" (which I think is Drive) feeds max 55% to the back. And "AWD Mode 1" feeds 60% back. So both, at max, look like they're slightly rear-biased. At least, if I'm reading that right. But there seems to be some considerable debate about that.
 

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I think you have it back wards.
 

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You only have AWD till 29 mph, then it's turned off unless a front wheel spins fast than a rear, or you drop back below 29.
I’ve been going 60-65mph on snow/slush/wet mix and seen the AWD distribution working like crazy on the dash cartoon, especially when changing lanes and crossing those deep slush lines. I’m amazed at how fast and busy that system works on these cars. It’s fun to turn off T/C and watch the AWD icon while going a drag style launch.
 

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Front gear box is a PTU ( Power Take Off ) , rear is the transfer case. That's where the AWD is turned on n off, there's a clutch at the front where the drive shaft bolts up, then from there into the diff section. The clutch will only handle so much torque before it starts slipping, that's what people are talking about, when you hear them wanting a upgraded clutch for the transfer case.
I'm pretty sure a power take off was term used in farming to run farm implements off the tractor's PTO.
 
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You only have AWD till 29 mph, then it's turned off unless a front wheel spins fast than a rear, or you drop back below 29.
First time I've heard this - what's the source for this information?
 
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