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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
@OX1 - maybe I overstated it, so let me clarify that the loss in the low end is noticeable but not major. It’s still strong out of the hole off-idle, especially if you use the typical “roll into the throttle” technique that a lot of guys do on the street. My car will still throw you back in seat hard and it’s uncomfortable for the passengers necks. But I’d say if the upper ranges aren’t where you play, then the expense and major work effort of the turbo swap is not really worth it. Frankly, I wouldn’t have done the IC or DPs if I hadn’t been racing. When my son bought his FuSport I told him not to spend his money on those items if he’s just daily driving it. The tune is hands down the biggest bang for the buck, and IMO everything else falls into the category of nice but not necessary.
Appreciate the reply

Well this is where I'm at. I own 11 vehicles. This one was supposed the be the DD, only car for winter, NO mods, under warantee, the one I didn't have to mess with EVER. So got the best warantee ford offers for 8 years 125K. I'm sure engine warantee is gone with tune (maybe trans too). But with really only sway bars and tires, most of the warantee should still hold up (like weirdo electrical problems is always my biggest fear).

I was all over the arse of this honda thing (small SUV or mini-van, didn't even care at the time) on a long highway on ramp and being that type of vehicle, I didn't think much about it when we started pulling on highway. You have to be careful pulling on highways in jersey as some cloverleafs have you @ say 30 MPH (especially following slow people in circular on ramps) and right behind you may be someone braking from 80-90 trying to cross your path to get off.

So this Honda thing takes off, obviously has the jump on me as I'm checking behind me for traffic. I get out there and get into maybe 3/4 throttle. This thing start to pull a bit, and then we maintain distance to about 95. I started thinking to myself, self, would I have absolutely blown the doors off this thing, like I think I should have, if I was @ full throttle. My answer was a question mark (again, talking blowing by , not just passing). I guess all of today's cars just keep getting faster and faster. So that got me thinking about the turbos again (It was very hot out, close to 90 degrees).

So with a VERY mild power brake, I've gotten 0-30's @ 1.72 (dragy, in real good air). The test MT did on an 18 Mod 3Perf was the same. The only other cars in our price range, the Stinger, needs a lot more HP to reach that same 0-30 (I've posted up Stinger dragy's before in a separate thread), probably trans related as it has an 8 speed and may shift more, but it is what it is. I pick 30 MPH, as that is well across an intersection, so someone really has to bring their A-game, like a high dollar AWD electric, or I am going to be first into that one lane road coming up, no matter what (and that doesn't even include deep staging or guessing at the green, no rules in street merging, right? LOL).

Anyway, long story here, but I don't want to lose even the slightest hint of that holeshot (and I have a 14Stang that traps 130, so if I need a top end fix, that's the one I want). I had questioned when the MKZ's were confirmed "different" if there would be even a hint more lag (larger stock turbo of same architecture, usually a bit more lag) and some replied on the board and had me convinced it would not have ANY more lag.

I seem to lose a LOT on the top end in summer, with the low end having only some loss. I suspect that is at least partially IC related, so I may go that route first to see. And I thought maybe the meth would maximize the overdriven stock turbos some on the high end, if possible. I wouldn't even have it set to go on at all, until 50-60 MPH and only full throttle. But reading up on them, it seems you evaporate most of the meth in a day or so @ real high temps outside, like 90+. I guess even straight water would help some, but worth it for only higher speed runs and $6-800 for kits, programable/larger reservoir? I make darn good money, but I have to spread the "love" (and the repair/upkeep headaches) over 11 vehicles.
 

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Appreciate the reply

Well this is where I'm at. I own 11 vehicles. This one was supposed the be the DD, only car for winter, NO mods, under warantee, the one I didn't have to mess with EVER. So got the best warantee ford offers for 8 years 125K. I'm sure engine warantee is gone with tune (maybe trans too). But with really only sway bars and tires, most of the warantee should still hold up (like weirdo electrical problems is always my biggest fear).

I was all over the arse of this honda thing (small SUV or mini-van, didn't even care at the time) on a long highway on ramp and being that type of vehicle, I didn't think much about it when we started pulling on highway. You have to be careful pulling on highways in jersey as some cloverleafs have you @ say 30 MPH (especially following slow people in circular on ramps) and right behind you may be someone braking from 80-90 trying to cross your path to get off.

So this Honda thing takes off, obviously has the jump on me as I'm checking behind me for traffic. I get out there and get into maybe 3/4 throttle. This thing start to pull a bit, and then we maintain distance to about 95. I started thinking to myself, self, would I have absolutely blown the doors off this thing, like I think I should have, if I was @ full throttle. My answer was a question mark (again, talking blowing by , not just passing). I guess all of today's cars just keep getting faster and faster. So that got me thinking about the turbos again (It was very hot out, close to 90 degrees).

So with a VERY mild power brake, I've gotten 0-30's @ 1.72 (dragy, in real good air). The test MT did on an 18 Mod 3Perf was the same. The only other cars in our price range, the Stinger, needs a lot more HP to reach that same 0-30 (I've posted up Stinger dragy's before in a separate thread), probably trans related as it has an 8 speed and may shift more, but it is what it is. I pick 30 MPH, as that is well across an intersection, so someone really has to bring their A-game, like a high dollar AWD electric, or I am going to be first into that one lane road coming up, no matter what (and that doesn't even include deep staging or guessing at the green, no rules in street merging, right? LOL).

Anyway, long story here, but I don't want to lose even the slightest hint of that holeshot (and I have a 14Stang that traps 130, so if I need a top end fix, that's the one I want). I had questioned when the MKZ's were confirmed if there would be even a hint more lag (larger stock turbo of same architecture, usually a bit more lag) and some replied on the board and had me convinced it would not have ANY more lag.

I seem to lose a LOT on the top end in summer, with the low end having only some loss. I suspect that is at least partially IC related, so I may go that route first to see. And I thought maybe the meth would maximize the overdriven stock turbos some on the high end, if possible. I wouldn't even have it set to go on at all, until 50-60 MPH and only full throttle. But reading up on them, it seems you evaporate most of the meth in a day or so @ real high temps outside, like 90+. I guess even straight water would help some, but worth it for only higher speed runs and $6-800 for kits, programable/larger reservoir? I make darn good money, but I have to spread the "love" (and the repair/upkeep headaches) over 11 vehicles.
I'm not in front of my tuner laptop I use for HP Tuners right now but I know there's a setting in the PCM for seconds of window considered when applying boost, I forget the name of it but it defaults to, I think, 8 seconds maybe. Anyhow you can drop that down and it's a noticeable increase in responsiveness. The car can get pretty twitchy if you drop it way low. Anyhow that might be what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I'm not in front of my tuner laptop I use for HP Tuners right now but I know there's a setting in the PCM for seconds of window considered when applying boost, I forget the name of it but it defaults to, I think, 8 seconds maybe. Anyhow you can drop that down and it's a noticeable increase in responsiveness. The car can get pretty twitchy if you drop it way low. Anyhow that might be what you want.
I have my HP for 2 months now, but too busy "restoring" my 79 Bronco that I use to tow my boat (which I haven't done much to in 20 odd years).
Will Torrie give you a tune for HP tuners at all?
 

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Okay yeah that makes sense, I don't blame you (although it sounds to me like whoever did your last oil pan replacement finally got it right, most likely--I know it's tricky with the long setup time and having to use the RTV correctly, so some folks have run into trouble with that). Anyhow all of that just to say that I don't blame you for not tuning. Actually I don't blame anybody, ever, for not tuning. That's a perfectly legitimate choice.

I took a quick look at the JB4, I don't know whether or not they're available for the FFS, but it just looks like a typical chip tune. I have seen those for the FFS I think (don't remember the brands), and maybe this is available for us too but not sure. The way they typically work is they sit between the PCM and its connector and basically fool with the data the PCM receives and sends, so the PCM gets a distorted view of the world and provides altered data to the vehicle controls. It actually works, but offends my sensibilities personally because it means everything is operating outside of the parameters it thinks it's operating at. Doesn't really matter from a practical perspective, I'm just picky about that sort of thing, but the upshot is yeah you can generally just remove those and it's not detectable afterward. I have no familiarity with the Kia/Hyundai platforms though, beyond my experience with Kias many years ago, so I can't say about that car. As for ours, as far as I know it wouldn't be detectable once you removed it.

Of course, I'm nobody and I know there are folks on here who are much more closely connected to all that, who might have contradictory information for you. I'm just going based off the info I have.
It's called tuning, it's what we do to make more power. You don't move the limiters and ask for more torque, your really not gonna make any more power than what a stock file can produce.
 

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Maybe I would be better off with an IC and Meth, and keep stock turbos. I just assumed there was no real loss (or gain)
on the bottom end. I'm not willing to give up really anything on the low end. I use the hole shot of this car
daily, but don't really have to have more power over 70/80 all that often.
I am very satisfied with this type of setup, ik it sounds dumb but with the catless on top of that combo, it feels like you're driving a race car.
 

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Damnnn bro steal
Yes, and still not on the car. bought them a year ago last May. Been to busy with other stuff, but I'm thinking there going on before the end of the year. If not then early spring.
 

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Yes, and still not on the car. bought them a year ago last May. Been to busy with other stuff, but I'm thinking there going on before the end of the year. If not then early spring.
The ones I priced are like 838 not bad but, my rear diff got smashed after a month of having my sport so I have to wait longer than I'd like to get those turbos😥
 

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I would think for everyday street driving being slower down low would not go well with me. I may never drive a 1/4 mile race so what I would like is about 350 HP with low end power. But if you run a lot of quarters as I believe you do the 3.0 turbos would be good. I always get these Honda civics, Cx-5 turbos and CRV turbos try and blow by me. This guy in the CX-5 always try's to blow by me. Sometimes i push the pedal down and go right past him but if I see him the next day he will do it again. It goes pretty good but if I give the FS some gas it just runs by. I had a Civic SI get about 2 car lengths on me and just mashed the pedal and flew right by him. The Civics seem pretty aggressive but they just are not that fast but they think they are. WRX's and the Focus ST like to go to. I have had the upper hand on the WRX's even one that was a couple of years old with big pipes fat tires and a stick that was close. The newer ones are slower.
Thats my use for this car. Rolling and dominating on factory level competitors. BMW, Audi and Honda are often skanking upon my daily drive. I have not mashed the pedal yet. I'm saving it. I have not yet done that, except 2018 Conti, 2.7 F150, and I sold many mkz and A $60k MKX 2.7 dual turbo .. all seem to be fast though.

Modding. Soon as I touch it though- CAI, Exhaust.....it breaks the resonance of the well engineered system.. this time just a drop..
 

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The 3.0 turbos don't kill bottom end if you tune them right. Keep in mind, you try to generate to much bottom end and you'll end up with issues. Low speed knock being the biggest issue, on top of just pushing the engine harder than needed.
 

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Got mine from Pam's auto for $580 including tax and shipping about 6 months ago. I just posted on another thread that I found them using car-part.com . It's a great resource but a lot of savage yards listed on there either aren't set up to do online sales or never get back to you if you message them. It's still a good resource even if you are just spec-ing out how much $ parts are going for.

Also, I noticed that there were some offerings from LKQs eBay store that their website will not filter when searching. BUT if you grab the stock number (I believe) from eBay and paste it to the search bar on LKQs website you can pull up the donor vehicles information. When looking at the part on their site, it will most likely say that the part is "unavailable" and you won't be able to add it to your cart. Most likely because it's been allocated to their eBay store.

Anyways... Maybe useless information but it helped me a lot when I was piecing my FFS together.
 

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Appreciate the reply

Well this is where I'm at. I own 11 vehicles. This one was supposed the be the DD, only car for winter, NO mods, under warantee, the one I didn't have to mess with EVER. So got the best warantee ford offers for 8 years 125K. I'm sure engine warantee is gone with tune (maybe trans too). But with really only sway bars and tires, most of the warantee should still hold up (like weirdo electrical problems is always my biggest fear).

I was all over the arse of this honda thing (small SUV or mini-van, didn't even care at the time) on a long highway on ramp and being that type of vehicle, I didn't think much about it when we started pulling on highway. You have to be careful pulling on highways in jersey as some cloverleafs have you @ say 30 MPH (especially following slow people in circular on ramps) and right behind you may be someone braking from 80-90 trying to cross your path to get off.

So this Honda thing takes off, obviously has the jump on me as I'm checking behind me for traffic. I get out there and get into maybe 3/4 throttle. This thing start to pull a bit, and then we maintain distance to about 95. I started thinking to myself, self, would I have absolutely blown the doors off this thing, like I think I should have, if I was @ full throttle. My answer was a question mark (again, talking blowing by , not just passing). I guess all of today's cars just keep getting faster and faster. So that got me thinking about the turbos again (It was very hot out, close to 90 degrees).

So with a VERY mild power brake, I've gotten 0-30's @ 1.72 (dragy, in real good air). The test MT did on an 18 Mod 3Perf was the same. The only other cars in our price range, the Stinger, needs a lot more HP to reach that same 0-30 (I've posted up Stinger dragy's before in a separate thread), probably trans related as it has an 8 speed and may shift more, but it is what it is. I pick 30 MPH, as that is well across an intersection, so someone really has to bring their A-game, like a high dollar AWD electric, or I am going to be first into that one lane road coming up, no matter what (and that doesn't even include deep staging or guessing at the green, no rules in street merging, right? LOL).

Anyway, long story here, but I don't want to lose even the slightest hint of that holeshot (and I have a 14Stang that traps 130, so if I need a top end fix, that's the one I want). I had questioned when the MKZ's were confirmed "different" if there would be even a hint more lag (larger stock turbo of same architecture, usually a bit more lag) and some replied on the board and had me convinced it would not have ANY more lag.

I seem to lose a LOT on the top end in summer, with the low end having only some loss. I suspect that is at least partially IC related, so I may go that route first to see. And I thought maybe the meth would maximize the overdriven stock turbos some on the high end, if possible. I wouldn't even have it set to go on at all, until 50-60 MPH and only full throttle. But reading up on them, it seems you evaporate most of the meth in a day or so @ real high temps outside, like 90+. I guess even straight water would help some, but worth it for only higher speed runs and $6-800 for kits, programable/larger reservoir? I make darn good money, but I have to spread the "love" (and the repair/upkeep headaches) over 11 vehicles.
Hey what's you your 60 ft time and your 1/4 et with the mustang? What mods
 

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I got mine off a 18 Continental for 580.00 with1300 miles on them, new enough for me. What gets me is the places selling one's with high miles and asking stupid money for them. I seen a place with a pair had 70,000 miles on them and they thought they were worth a 1000 bucks. No thanks, you can keep your high mile chargers. :)
 
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I upgraded my MKZ turbos to Revolution BIG turbos. I’ve found the power band shifted up by bout 300 rpm’s which is hardly noticeable for everyday driving. Revolution turbos modify both the Compression and Turbines for a balanced intake / exhaust. I also installed UP’s 3” DP’s, MRT Axelback exhausts & CAI by Steeda. Fueled up with XDI EVO HPFP & 15% injectors. Dialing it all in as we speak…

I have a pair of MKZ turbos with 70K miles on em if anyone’s interested…
 
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