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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Also, has anyone done them on 93 only and what gains did you see?
Only e-85 station is an hour away and being my DD, E-anything is not going to happen.
 

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I got mine through LKQ. I’m fortunate to have a location only 25 minutes from my house, so no shipping charges. I run 93 only. I had other mods in place prior to installing the turbos and I did the full 2.5” exhaust at the same time. My experience was the turbos caused my throttle response to go a little flat down low, which was a bit disappointing on the street, but I trimmed a minimum of .5 and up to .8 off my quarter mile times right away. Also, at highway speeds the improvement in acceleration from 60-90-120 was incredible!
 
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I bought mine over year ago, and still have yet to put them on the car, I have heard they will take some of your bottom end away, but the gains in the mid to upper range were worth it. Good tuning can get some of the loss back, but your not gonna get all of it think.
 
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I got mine through LKQ. I’m fortunate to have a location only 25 minutes from my house, so no shipping charges. I run 93 only. I had other mods in place prior to installing the turbos and I did the full 2.5” exhaust at the same time. My experience was the turbos caused my throttle response to go a little flat down low, which was a bit disappointing on the street, but I trimmed a minimum of .5 and up to .8 off my quarter mile times right away. Also, at highway speeds the improvement in acceleration from 60-90-120 was incredible!
Didn't you do your down pipes and turbos at the same time ? I was thinking if you gain some bottom end with the down pipes which would off set the loss from the turbos, or at least some of the loss.
 

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Didn't you do your down pipes and turbos at the same time ? I was thinking if you gain some bottom end with the down pipes which would off set the loss from the turbos, or at least some of the loss.
No, I did the downpipes and intercooler in July 2018, then the turbos over a year later in September of 2019. After the DPs I noticed no improvement down low. I’ve always been told that larger headpipes (or primaries in headers) improve higher rpm flow and smaller pipes contribute to low end but that’s in N/A motors. It’s hard to accurately quantify how it affected my car because even though I was going to the track, I was really struggling to learn how to launch the car. I was also making other mods which kept changing the variables faster than I was able to figure out how to adjust to them with my driving. I’m a slow learner /smh. On the street there was no noticeable difference.
When I did the DPs there was still a lot of speculation about whether the MKZ turbos were any different from the Sport turbos because the part numbers were the same on Fords database. Then Twinforce Fusion bought a set and posted a video where he disassembled them to measure the impellers and after that the MKZ turbo rush was on! I paid $476.11 for both after core credit of $25 each. I was afraid they’d give me trouble about them being different cores but they didn’t seem to care/notice.
 
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Did you guys need to do anything special when looking on LKQ? I've been looking for a while for 2018 MKZ's but never see any that are for the 3.0, just lots and lots of turbos for the 2.0 motor. Maybe I just have bad timing.
 

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I just got lucky and found a set on eBay a yard out in California listed, then they sent be a offer on both of them I couldn't refuse.
 
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I agree with Shawnski the down pipes did not help with the low end but the top end performance has improved
Doesn't surprise me though, you take a stock Super Duty with a 7.3, do a 4 inch straight pipe turbo back exhaust and you will loose some bottom end, but the top end really picks up. Big issue with the stock exhaust on them is the fricken muffler is so restrictive, a lot of guys would just buy a piece of pipe and do a muffler delete, picking up better flow.
 
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I got mine through LKQ. I’m fortunate to have a location only 25 minutes from my house, so no shipping charges. I run 93 only. I had other mods in place prior to installing the turbos and I did the full 2.5” exhaust at the same time. My experience was the turbos caused my throttle response to go a little flat down low, which was a bit disappointing on the street, but I trimmed a minimum of .5 and up to .8 off my quarter mile times right away. Also, at highway speeds the improvement in acceleration from 60-90-120 was incredible!
I would think for everyday street driving being slower down low would not go well with me. I may never drive a 1/4 mile race so what I would like is about 350 HP with low end power. But if you run a lot of quarters as I believe you do the 3.0 turbos would be good. I always get these Honda civics, Cx-5 turbos and CRV turbos try and blow by me. This guy in the CX-5 always try's to blow by me. Sometimes i push the pedal down and go right past him but if I see him the next day he will do it again. It goes pretty good but if I give the FS some gas it just runs by. I had a Civic SI get about 2 car lengths on me and just mashed the pedal and flew right by him. The Civics seem pretty aggressive but they just are not that fast but they think they are. WRX's and the Focus ST like to go to. I have had the upper hand on the WRX's even one that was a couple of years old with big pipes fat tires and a stick that was close. The newer ones are slower.
 

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I would think for everyday street driving being slower down low would not go well with me. I may never drive a 1/4 mile race so what I would like is about 350 HP with low end power. But if you run a lot of quarters as I believe you do the 3.0 turbos would be good. I always get these Honda civics, Cx-5 turbos and CRV turbos try and blow by me. This guy in the CX-5 always try's to blow by me. Sometimes i push the pedal down and go right past him but if I see him the next day he will do it again. It goes pretty good but if I give the FS some gas it just runs by. I had a Civic SI get about 2 car lengths on me and just mashed the pedal and flew right by him. The Civics seem pretty aggressive but they just are not that fast but they think they are. WRX's and the Focus ST like to go to. I have had the upper hand on the WRX's even one that was a couple of years old with big pipes fat tires and a stick that was close. The newer ones are slower.
I agree completely that you want more low end for everyday driving, vs if you're running quarters the high end probably matters more. That's one big difference in our cars (even stock) is the power delivery vs the smaller engines is so much better. There's a lot more on these, even down low and even at stock, than the smaller engines have. But you mentioned wanting maybe 350 for daily, that's really easily obtained with even the most mild of tunes and nothing else. I don't remember if you're tuned or not but even the lightest 87 tune from anybody should get you past 350 HP easily without giving up anything.
 

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@dtd - I drive a lot of highway miles (hence the 120k+ miles) and I’m very happy with the mid- and upper-range power improvements I experienced from the DPs & turbos. The best thing I’ve done for low end performance is the lighter wheel/tire setup. The 9 lb. per corner weight reduction has made a very noticeable improvement in low end acceleration and it cut a tenth off my 60 ft. times so it’s definitely real. Regardless of which wheel/tires I happen to be running, when I’m in stop-and-go or traffic where short spurts of authoritative acceleration are needed, I will toggle the paddle shifters to manual, and keep the trans in a lower gear to keep the revs up. This offsets the flatter low-end response by keeping it on the boost.
 

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I agree completely that you want more low end for everyday driving, vs if you're running quarters the high end probably matters more. That's one big difference in our cars (even stock) is the power delivery vs the smaller engines is so much better. There's a lot more on these, even down low and even at stock, than the smaller engines have. But you mentioned wanting maybe 350 for daily, that's really easily obtained with even the most mild of tunes and nothing else. I don't remember if you're tuned or not but even the lightest 87 tune from anybody should get you past 350 HP easily without giving up anything.
Engineer, I am not tuned, I have 2019 and have had 3 oil pans. The pan that came with the car leaked. The pan they replaced it leaked. My current pan I believe I have had without leaks for over a year. So I am concerned that if I get a tune and I would have problems would have to pay for it. That is covered fo 5 years 60k or somthing like that. I know Stingers use the JB4 tune which is not supposed to be detectable. Although I am not proficient at loading and unloading tunes as I have never done so. I have not seen much about the JB4 with the FS as they may not be compatible. I believe the JB4 may cause some spark plug issues with some Stingers.
 

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Engineer, I am not tuned, I have 2019 and have had 3 oil pans. The pan that came with the car leaked. The pan they replaced it leaked. My current pan I believe I have had without leaks for over a year. So I am concerned that if I get a tune and I would have problems would have to pay for it. That is covered fo 5 years 60k or somthing like that. I know Stingers use the JB4 tune which is not supposed to be detectable. Although I am not proficient at loading and unloading tunes as I have never done so. I have not seen much about the JB4 with the FS as they may not be compatible. I believe the JB4 may cause some spark plug issues with some Stingers.
Okay yeah that makes sense, I don't blame you (although it sounds to me like whoever did your last oil pan replacement finally got it right, most likely--I know it's tricky with the long setup time and having to use the RTV correctly, so some folks have run into trouble with that). Anyhow all of that just to say that I don't blame you for not tuning. Actually I don't blame anybody, ever, for not tuning. That's a perfectly legitimate choice.

I took a quick look at the JB4, I don't know whether or not they're available for the FFS, but it just looks like a typical chip tune. I have seen those for the FFS I think (don't remember the brands), and maybe this is available for us too but not sure. The way they typically work is they sit between the PCM and its connector and basically fool with the data the PCM receives and sends, so the PCM gets a distorted view of the world and provides altered data to the vehicle controls. It actually works, but offends my sensibilities personally because it means everything is operating outside of the parameters it thinks it's operating at. Doesn't really matter from a practical perspective, I'm just picky about that sort of thing, but the upshot is yeah you can generally just remove those and it's not detectable afterward. I have no familiarity with the Kia/Hyundai platforms though, beyond my experience with Kias many years ago, so I can't say about that car. As for ours, as far as I know it wouldn't be detectable once you removed it.

Of course, I'm nobody and I know there are folks on here who are much more closely connected to all that, who might have contradictory information for you. I'm just going based off the info I have.
 

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Okay yeah that makes sense, I don't blame you (although it sounds to me like whoever did your last oil pan replacement finally got it right, most likely--I know it's tricky with the long setup time and having to use the RTV correctly, so some folks have run into trouble with that). Anyhow all of that just to say that I don't blame you for not tuning. Actually I don't blame anybody, ever, for not tuning. That's a perfectly legitimate choice.

I took a quick look at the JB4, I don't know whether or not they're available for the FFS, but it just looks like a typical chip tune. I have seen those for the FFS I think (don't remember the brands), and maybe this is available for us too but not sure. The way they typically work is they sit between the PCM and its connector and basically fool with the data the PCM receives and sends, so the PCM gets a distorted view of the world and provides altered data to the vehicle controls. It actually works, but offends my sensibilities personally because it means everything is operating outside of the parameters it thinks it's operating at. Doesn't really matter from a practical perspective, I'm just picky about that sort of thing, but the upshot is yeah you can generally just remove those and it's not detectable afterward. I have no familiarity with the Kia/Hyundai platforms though, beyond my experience with Kias many years ago, so I can't say about that car. As for ours, as far as I know it wouldn't be detectable once you removed it.

Of course, I'm nobody and I know there are folks on here who are much more closely connected to all that, who might have contradictory information for you. I'm just going based off the info I have.
I should also add that at least some well-known tuners supposedly do the same sort of thing with the tunes they sell, as far as fooling the PCM. In other words, instead of properly programming the PCM to use the normal torque modeling system that's in the PCM, they falsify the tables and provide incorrect values, and make the PCM fight against the incorrect data, resulting in higher output (but, in my opinion, getting there the wrong way). I don't know why they do that, in my opinion it's ill-advised. But that, just like chip tuners, offends my sensibilities as well, and for exactly the same reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I got mine through LKQ. I’m fortunate to have a location only 25 minutes from my house, so no shipping charges. I run 93 only. I had other mods in place prior to installing the turbos and I did the full 2.5” exhaust at the same time. My experience was the turbos caused my throttle response to go a little flat down low, which was a bit disappointing on the street, but I trimmed a minimum of .5 and up to .8 off my quarter mile times right away. Also, at highway speeds the improvement in acceleration from 60-90-120 was incredible!
Hmmm, kind of disappointing to hear about the loss on low end, but I guess after re-watching this video, it must be real.

Maybe I would be better off with an IC and Meth, and keep stock turbos. I just assumed there was no real loss (or gain)
on the bottom end. I'm not willing to give up really anything on the low end. I use the hole shot of this car
daily, but don't really have to have more power over 70/80 all that often.
 

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@OX1 - maybe I overstated it, so let me clarify that the loss in the low end is noticeable but not major. It’s still strong out of the hole off-idle, especially if you use the typical “roll into the throttle” technique that a lot of guys do on the street. My car will still throw you back in seat hard and it’s uncomfortable for the passengers necks. But I’d say if the upper ranges aren’t where you play, then the expense and major work effort of the turbo swap is not really worth it. Frankly, I wouldn’t have done the IC or DPs if I hadn’t been racing. When my son bought his FuSport I told him not to spend his money on those items if he’s just daily driving it. The tune is hands down the biggest bang for the buck, and IMO everything else falls into the category of nice but not necessary.
 
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