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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So noob question, you still run at least a pair of O2 sensors, one O2 sensor per downpipe? This is so you can get the AFR for tuning purposes correct? Or did you plug them all, which doesn't make sense to me, but then again thats why I am asking because I would like to run DPs in the future on my FFS.
It is two sensors per downpipe.

I just plugged one, I am going to try and extract the seized one using a torch eventually and re-install it (can easily do this one from above the engine). You will need at least one so the ECU can read and automatically adjust lean/rich conditions.
 
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You still run up streams, and just plug the down streams. Issue is you need to turn off the down streams so it doesn't throw a eficency code for there not being any cats, and most tuners are not doing that anymore like they use to a few years ago.
 
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I did the turbo upgrade first I feel your pain my dp install is this weekend , I removed the lower stud on the a/c compressor and moved it out of the way with out touching the freon
 

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I,ve got a 1234 machine at work that will make it easier, plus I,m gonna remove the cooling so I,ll have more room. Back looks easy once the pipes are off the turbo, but that,
s a job in it's self I can see
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I was wrong to think the front downpipes were the more difficult ones. The rear was far more frustrating, like stated in the "Turbo Front Bolts" forum you have to come in from the driver side wheel well.

You will not be able to see the bolts very well unless you use a flashlight. Here are some pics.

Bottom bolt, beneath catalytic converter.
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Top bolt is not visible because the catalytic converter is blocking the line of sight, however, it is reachable using about 32" of extension. The trick is getting the mental image using your hands and the little bit you can see. (My recommendation is to remove the turbo heat-shield and put it back on after the install.

You'll also need to remove the most annoying useless bracket ever created.
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Pretty sure this welded-on bracket was either because the NVH team (vibrations) thought it needed strain relief because of the cat's sheer weight and Grms felt from the road.

You'll understand once you put your hands up there, that there is a metal line (unsure if it's oil or what) right next to the bolt. You have to slide the socket underneath it while coming in (I consistently kept trying to put the socket on above the bar, because I didn't come in underneath it). Here is what it looks like without the cat/stock downpipe:
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The most annoying part of the install was ripping the stock cat out... Ford's little NVH bracket is not needed for reinstall... (At least for the catless, unsure about the U.P. catted pipes.) Basically in order to remove the cat, once the flange bolts are removed and secondary flex-pipe exhaust is removed, you should attempt to undo the O2 sensors, and then cut the NVH bracket with a Dremel if possible.

I however did none of this as you can see by the subpar mylar-tape and foil patch job on my firewall and sound deadening.
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I decided to un-hook the swaybar and driveshaft and performed "catalytic Tetris." By consistently rocking the swaybar and cat back-in-forth while pulling the cat down, thus tearing my firewall up from the O2 sensors & bracket not being removed... This method allowed for the removal of the cat from the bottom of the car.

My hope is that after documenting this that no one in the future has to waste time figuring this out on their own.

Tips:
  • Disconnect the driveshaft using a Torx T40-T50 bit. Get a very tiny 1/4 drive ratchet, and some flexible drive extension (both hand and power type). Don't forget to put the blue Loctite thread locker (medium strength) back on the bolts once you reconnect the driveshaft.
  • Attempt not to put too much heatwrap near the edge of the downpipe flange, I had to use a 1/2" - 3/8" chrome spacer (I think was the size) in front of the nut and as a result I also had to leave a 15mm socket on it because it got stuck behind the excess heatwrap when securing the nut (it'll only come out if I loosen it, so its a sacrifice that I'll make).
  • Sway bar end links require a 18mm socket with an alan wrench to keep the bolt/nut from spinning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Coldstart:

Dig - Inside Car:

Driveby - Coworker Driving:
 

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The rear downpipe for me was also the nightmare , I found the front unit to be much less stressful and faster to install
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The rear downpipe for me was also the nightmare , I found the front unit to be much less stressful and faster to install
Yeah finding the bolts and actually taking it out was disgusting, how was it putting the catted one back in?
 

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I damaged one of the studs on the way out with the stock unit and left the o2 sensors out which helped a bunch on the install of the catted pipe which was not to bad going back in
 
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