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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought I would make a video, unwrapping the downpipes. Also if you weren't aware the catless pipes were delisted from the website. Catted is still up.


Also showed off my dirty girl for the first time.

 

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I,m gonna order a set of catted ones at some point here soon.
 

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Good lord those looks hell of a lot better than the Factory. I can't imagine how much of a pain in the ass they are too install! Let us know how it goes lol
 
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On a lift they shouldn,t be too bad, the flange bolts at the turbos are the pita part, the rest is gravy.
 

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They look amazing , I just got the catted UP downpipes
 
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Any update did you get these installed ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any update did you get these installed ?
They have not been installed yet, still finishing up this semester. Most likely they will be installed sometime in the next month. However, was contemplating on getting the upgraded turbos from turbo revolution since the install is said to be difficult.
 
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I did the MKZ turbo upgrade install it was not that bad but it is the perfect time to replace the downpipes
 

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Yeah, pretty much where I'm at with this. I only have a couple things to do to the 3.0 turbos and they will be ready to go on, figure I'm better off dong all of it at the same time. Nice thing is, if I still have my 13, I'll drive it while the Sport is down.
 

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Limey just curious why catless downpipes vs the catted units
 

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For an every day driver I would go with catted, but that's just me. They do help with the smell, and I know this from other cars that don't have any, and been around them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Limey just curious why catless downpipes vs the catted units
I just hate the environment.

Going for sound, I want more turbo spool. A lot of my buddy's are catless and it's suprising because i can barely notice the smell. Not sure if I'm just used to it, or what.
 

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I just hate the environment.

Going for sound, I want more turbo spool. A lot of my buddy's are catless and it's suprising because i can barely notice the smell. Not sure if I'm just used to it, or what.
They don't sell the catless anymore do they
 

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I ran catless on several cars in the past, little boost in performance and smell (but it's really not bad, and only really when you stop at a light with the windows down). The exhaust sounds much guttural/meaner/deeper/more betters though.

Not fun if they do emissions testing where you live though.
 

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With the high flow cats we have today , there really is no reason not to have them. I'm not tree hugger either, just saying things have come a long way in the past twenty years. Magna Flow builds a nice cat, and flow a lot better than stock. Plus they keep the EPA happy or your local smog cops, which I will say is stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Titanium wrapped. 2 inch, about 75ft worth of material. Took about 2 hours by myself.

Was planning on ceramic coating them, however the environmental chambers at work only get to about 370°F (about hot enough to bake a cake). According to most ceramic sprays you need anywhere from 425°F to 700°F+.
28094

28096

Is it true you can rattle-can spray downpipes and let them cure over the course of like 6-7 days, without heat?
 
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How much was shipping on them ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Got the front pipe done today... It's definitely a huge PIA, even trying to work the catless ones in there.

Here is the bolt closest to the radiator: (POV is looking up from under the car, with your legs at the driver's side, head towards passenger)
28154



Here is the other side:
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You have essentially no room to work with besides a prayer on the front one. A tip I took from TwinForce_Fusion was to unhook the AC compressor (warning that freon will spray out don't breathe it in, there is no radiator fluid in this). Unhooking it will give you a gap/angle with just enough room to get at the nut. If you can manage or figure out another way, it will save you a trip to the dealer and $250. You will have to likely remove the belt to get the required room (you can put it back on using a shop towel and pulling like a man to stretch it back down into place. YouTube video-hack on it.

Also, remove the bottom thick plastic piece just below the intercooler.

I used a combination of switching between drill, WD-40, and a ratchet wrench. I recommend getting an extension bar, and 2 quantities - 3/8 swivel joints and 15mm deep socket. Kind of like this:
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Breaking the rust is the hardest part, then the rest is using the impact gun and cussing out Ford (not an understatement, you will be tired and swearing every two seconds). But don't give up! If you have all the correct tools you'll get the front done in 2-days by yourself.

Take off the O2 sensors using a 22mm crescent wrench, or an O2 socket. (I cut my top one's wire because even after I took the downpipe out it was seized). Not sure if it is needed, but I was able to salvage the 2nd one without any cutting.

Once you get the bolts removed from the stock cat, you will want to take the end/flex pipe off of the exhaust system before the resonator. This allows you to swing it around until it comes out of its tight hole.

Putting the catless downpipes in was only slightly easier than taking the stock ones out, partially due because I wrapped them in titanium heat-wrap. I found that is the easiest way to install was going through all the instructions in reverse again. What this means is, swing it using the flex-pipe end into a resting place near the bolts (on them if you're superhuman). If not then connect the flex-pipe end to the resonator end (it will help using wiping the inside/outside of both pipes and then using WD-40). use your feet for leverage against both disconnected hangers and push the pipe into place.

Do not tighten the clamp though, you'll need to wiggle it somewhat still. Next, you will need to punch the pipe using your palm like 1 million times until it decides it's finally going to listen and fall into place. From there you'll want to clean off the bolts/nuts and tighten them down. (Wallah! half of an 8-hour job done in 20 hours of excruciating pain).

Some tips:
  1. Do not ever start the car, just remove the battery to save yourself some grief in case you forgot the AC compressor and belt weren't hooked back up.
  2. Keep the AC compressor disconnected until the front pipe is completely replaced.
  3. Attempt to keep the metal-turbo gasket between the turbo/downpipe, I didn't and am not sure what the implications of it are. However, made sure my bolts were tight.
  4. Don't forget to put your O2 sensor or sensors back on your new pipes, and make sure they're tight! (I had ordered plugs for mine).
  5. Use a dead-blow hammer with the 22mm crescent wrench to remove the o2 sensor. Dead-blow hammers are a $10 god-tier tool.

FSDetroit once said he vowed to never touch the internals of this car again after his install experience, i am in the same boat (this car will likely never get a turbo upgrade now)
 

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Don't forget to put your O2 sensor or sensors back on your new pipes, and make sure they're tight! (I had ordered plugs for mine)
So noob question, you still run at least a pair of O2 sensors, one O2 sensor per downpipe? This is so you can get the AFR for tuning purposes correct? Or did you plug them all, which doesn't make sense to me, but then again thats why I am asking because I would like to run DPs in the future on my FFS.
 
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