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Hey guys, now that it's getting warmer out I'm looking into getting my FS tuned with Torrie. I can't find a general guide anywhere for tuning, but I know I've seen members all over talk about changing Trans, PTU, and rear diff fluids. What other maintenance is recommended before installing a tune? Also, are there any good videos on using an SCT X4? How to back up a stock tune, and how to flash a new tune? I've watched a bunch on youtube but was wondering if there is a solid guide somehwere. Thanks!
 

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Changing the fluids is just keeping the car happy, really has nothing to do with whether it's tuned or not. Far as the rest is concerned, you'll need to get a hold of who ever you decide for tuning. They will touch base on everything you need to know and answer any questions you have. Some of us do our own tuning so we have it better far as being happy with the end result once everything is dialed in.
 
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Everything above is good. I'd also add it's probably a good idea to pull DTCs, review them, and clear the codes before doing a tune. This just gives you a good handle on any pre-existing problems, and makes sure you start with a clean slate.
 

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The other thing I always try to remind people is to get to know your car in stock form first. Just get a feel for how it responds, what the handling is like, how it sounds, that sort of thing. That way when you change things you'll have a good baseline of what the car should be like, so you can compare that to whatever is happening. It also gives you more appreciation both for how much the car has to offer, even totally stock, as well as how much you gain with a tune.
 

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The other thing I always try to remind people is to get to know your car in stock form first. Just get a feel for how it responds, what the handling is like, how it sounds, that sort of thing. That way when you change things you'll have a good baseline of what the car should be like, so you can compare that to whatever is happening. It also gives you more appreciation both for how much the car has to offer, even totally stock, as well as how much you gain with a tune.
@Engineer - very well said! I regret a little bit that I did tune too fast. The difference which I really feel is the HP below 2k rpm which is in most of the cases daily drive. So I can really feel that below 2k I have less power. Of course if I push the pedal harder and go beyound 2 k rpm car is stronger but it was big changing for me. I look at my graph and it confirmed my feeling. This is the one negative aspects for me personally but I used to it :)

Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel
 

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I asked mu tuner if we can do something with that solid green line but it is quite hard operation.

Rectangle Slope Font Plot Line



Another thing that I really feel is some kind of lag.
It happens when I pull the pedal gas hardly then stop for a miliseconds ;) and than push the pedal again very hard.
Probably it is not connected with tuning, because I felt it before tune. I think there are two reason behind that:
1) Our slow transmission 6f55 - on the other hand, it is longer lifetime
2) the turbo needs to wake up

I had the answer from the tunee that we can do something with that (some kind of keeping constant rpm) but it has very negative aspects for lifetime of the engine. I'm not a dragging racer so I don't need it

So in other words it is all about your needs and purpose of our lovely FFS 😁
 

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Another thing that I really feel is some kind of lag.
It happens when I pull the pedal gas hardly then stop for a miliseconds ;) and than push the pedal again very hard.
Probably it is not connected with tuning, because I felt it before tune. I think there are two reason behind that:
1) Our slow transmission 6f55 - on the other hand, it is longer lifetime
2) the turbo needs to wake up
Yeah that sub-2500 RPM range is really dangerous, that's where you're most likely to get LSPI so people are usually careful not to raise that up too high inside that range. There's some amount of margin there but you do want to be especially careful inside that range.

On the transmission, you can certainly increase transmission pressures and decrease fill times, etc. Higher pressures will make faster response, and you can absolutely feel that in a more responsive shift in the transmission.

On the turbo, that's mostly wastegate tuning (which sounds like what your tuner may have been referencing) but there's also, for example, a value which averages samples over a specified time range and determines response. I don't have my tuner in front of me right now so I can't see it but it defaults to 8 or 10 I think and you can decrease that down and it noticeably increases response on the go pedal.

Then there are other things you can do like pedal map, which I know, I know, this last one isn't actually making more power, but it sure helps the car feel a lot faster and increases the fun factor. There's a reason those Pedal Master kits sell. And it's also why almost every tune you can buy has that as a part of it.
 

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Another thing that I really feel is some kind of lag.
It happens when I pull the pedal gas hardly then stop for a miliseconds ;) and than push the pedal again very hard.
Probably it is not connected with tuning, because I felt it before tune.
Happens in stock also as you mention. Very annoying as its more than a lag - the pedal is unresponsive for about a second. Usually happens from a standing or slight rolling start. I'm guessing the software has to do some sort of reset or measurement before allowing the pedal to work again. Its like its waiting for the revs to hit a certain number (like idle) before letting you take control again. Its probably protecting the engine from lugging or over fueling or whatever but ah, to have a direct throttle cable again.....
 
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Happens in stock also as you mention. Very annoying as its more than a lag - the pedal is unresponsive for about a second. Usually happens from a standing or slight rolling start. I'm guessing the software has to do some sort of reset or measurement before allowing the pedal to work again. Its like its waiting for the revs to hit a certain number (like idle) before letting you take control again. Its probably protecting the engine from lugging or over fueling or whatever but ah, to have a direct throttle cable again.....
I know what you mean, and I've felt that too, but the computer is actually extremely fast. So fast that it makes hundreds, probably thousands actually, of operating parameters every second.

Basically what's likely to be happening is that the request is blocked by the computer because some programmed limiter is blocking it. Or at least backing it off. It could be anything. You can actually find out what the delay is for if you do data logging and cause it to happen. That's what tuners do, basically, is back off those limiters. Well that's a simplification, a lot of pro tuners actually mess with the internal tables to make the engine produce more output than the car thinks it's producing, but some folks (including me) disagree with that approach. But basically they're knocking limiters back.
 

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Something that I do every time I change my tune or disconnect my battery is to perform a throttle adjustment procedure. May be over kill, but I find that he does help with the new tune. Here is a post with steps.Throttle Adjustment Procedure
 

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Something that I do every time I change my tune or disconnect my battery is to perform a throttle adjustment procedure. May be over kill, but I find that he does help with the new tune. Here is a post with steps.Throttle Adjustment Procedure
Hey @maydk65 when you do that, do you open the door each time you shut the car off, or just push the button to turn it off then push it again to turn it back on? I know the car doesn't always shut off completely until the door is open. After you tune, for example, you have to open the door.
 

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Yep, I open the door to make sure everything is "off"
 
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I'll give a whirle, and let you guys know what I think of it.
 
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