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Decided to do a flush on my trans since I just hit 30k. I looked at all the tranny lines and found the easiest access is from the tranny cooler which is mounted in the driver side wheel well. Remove the LF wheel and remove the plastic fender liner its a bunch of 7mm bolts and clips. Once off you will see the tranny hoses going into the cooler. Looks easy just pop off one clamp and remove the hose. Well that didnt go so well. Couldnt get the hose off very easily and ended up breaking the elbow off the core :mad:

Took me most of the day to remove the broken one, find a suitable replacement, get it installed, and finally do the task I started out to do which was flush the trans.

Ended up going to a bigger Hayden bar and plate trans cooler.

Took 14 quarts to flush, probable due to the bigger cooler.



Long story short, be very careful trying to get that hose off the cooler. The barb fitting ford uses is not goint to let go easy see pic below; I would recommend just cutting the lower hose in half and installing a barbed splice pipe with some hose clamps.

Anyways heres some pics:





 

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Ya it fought hard and there is no room to get on it easily, brand is torq-flo but it is a hayden cooler, part number 911679.
 

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I'm still undecided of when I want to do my Transmission flush and PTU Flush. Ideally I'd like to have them both done at 30k miles, but not economical for me. I suppose I will do PTU at 30k maybe Transmission at 35k? Or is that waiting too long for the Transmission.
 

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I'm still undecided of when I want to do my Transmission flush and PTU Flush. Ideally I'd like to have them both done at 30k miles, but not economical for me. I suppose I will do PTU at 30k maybe Transmission at 35k? Or is that waiting too long for the Transmission.
Do you do oil changes on your car? If so, you can do a drain and fill on the PTU and trans.

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I'm still undecided of when I want to do my Transmission flush and PTU Flush. Ideally I'd like to have them both done at 30k miles, but not economical for me. I suppose I will do PTU at 30k maybe Transmission at 35k? Or is that waiting too long for the Transmission.
PTU should be done very early the first time. The fluid is nasty, even after 1000 miles.
My second change of PTU fluid about 13K yielded very clean fluid, to the point I
think it could have been left much longer.
 

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Do you do oil changes on your car? If so, you can do a drain and fill on the PTU and trans.

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I do not unfortunately, Never did one in my life. Totally wish I knew how to. I usually bring to Ford for the $40 Oil change and Tire rotation.

PTU should be done very early the first time. The fluid is nasty, even after 1000 miles.
My second change of PTU fluid about 13K yielded very clean fluid, to the point I
think it could have been left much longer.
Yikes. I was planning on waiting until 30k miles to have PTU fluid changed, but may do it earlier.

I know dealer probably charges around $200 for Transmission fluid flushed, Not sure what I'm looking at for a PTU fluid change though. I am thinking of buying the Amsoil however.

Would you guys trust a racing shop to do a PTU fluid / Transmission fluid change? Or should I just have it done by Ford (considering I do not have the knowledge on how to do these flushes.)
 

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Any shop can do the trans flush and a ptu drain and fill.

The ptu is like a rear differential, there is no passages to flush.

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isn't there a drain plug on the transmission? I thought I seen one anyways.. why not drain from there? is there still fluid in the lines and cooler even so?

seems rough to break some **** to get all of it out

how dark was it? any pics? are you really hard on her or just sometimes like me?
 

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(This the same info I put in another post of mine but figured I’d copy it here as well since this was the post I found first regarding flushing the tranny from the cooler. )
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Got the tranny flushed. Took out the inner fender liner and took off the lower cooler hose. It was difficult to get off but, getting it really hot with a heat gun let me slide it off with a combination of pulling up/twisting with my hand and pushing up on the bottom edge of the hose with a large flathead screwdriver.

When I started the car almost all the tranny fluid came out of the bottom cooler barb but some did come out of the loose hose.

I thought I was going to have to sit in the car to put it in neutral or drive to get the ATF to flow out, but it came out really fast with it in park. So I let it run till it started to slow down then dumped in ATF till it came out looking really clean and shut it off.

After hooking up the cooler back up it took 10.5 quarts to top top it off... I actually overfilled and had to suck out .5 quart with the extractor pump I got to change the RDU oil, and it worked great.

I think the total capacity is 11.5 quarts so I’m guessing I could have got more out the tranny if I would have shifted into drive for a bit while draining.

The pump I used: ALEKO OEXP02 1.6 Liter Oil and Fluid Extractor Pump For Automotive Fluids https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E99JVJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIB2Cb3TQT7BJ
 

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Well just flushed my trans for $100.00. It wasn't to bad. Car is at 66K on original fluid. I had read Darkstar's thread in the forums and to be honest it had me a little worried as he broke the cooler when he did his. So here is what I did, sorry I didn't do a step by step photo how to this time I was crunched for time and needed to get it done.



Jack car up driver side front, place on jack stand, remove wheel, removed inner fender liner 6 7mm bolts, hand full of push pin fasteners and 4 fender nuts. Now you have full access to the trans cooler. It is actually a lot bigger than I thought it was. So far this is easy now the hard part starts.


Remove the lower hose off the cooler barb. With a pair of pliers pinch the clamp and work it up the hose past the bend. The hose will be stuck on the bard like it is glued. I used several flat blade screw drivers to work the bottom edge of the hose loose on the barb to the point where transmission fluid starts to leak from bottom of hose. Put a LOT of paper towels under the lower barb to catch fluid that leaks out.



I read in a post I had searched up on the forums or on a Facebook Group that a member used a heat gun to warm the hose to help removal. Well after 10-15 minutes of trying to work off the hose I grabbed my heat gun, warmed the hose and I was able to work it up the barb with the flat blade screw driver and a little light twisting motion.





When the hose comes off be ready. I had my drain pan in place to catch fluid. I had some old clear tubing laying around installed it so I could watch the fluid drain, monitor color and watch for air bubbles. I also placed a smaller piece of hose in the return hose so it too could drain into the pan.





With the help of my bride, in the car, she cranked it leaving it in park and let it idle. The fluid started to feed out the barb thru the clear tubing and into the pan. The initial flush took a minute or two before I could see bubbles in the fluid and it started to gurgle. This is when you turn the engine off, Do not allow it to run for a long period of time pumping air pockets and fluid. As stated by Tracy Lewis it can cause damage to the pump.



Next challenge for me I have the Steeda CAI and the EcoPowerParts pipes so I had to completely remove the CAI from the car to access the transmission dip stick/fill tube. I put in 5 or 6 qts of new Mercon LV trans fluid and ran another flush session. I was able to grab a video of the second flush and as you will see the original fluid starts out dark brown and then you see the fluid in the tube start to clear up and turn red. I did not run the transmission until it started to pump air/gurgle this time as the fluid was running steady, clear and red.
At this point all you do it button everything back up, fill the trans up and let it idle for a while to ensure you do not have a leak at the barb. During this time I cycle the car from reverse to neutral to drive and back to park.



With the car up to temp check level of fluid with car idling in park on level ground It is recommended that you drive the car for about 20 miles or so and recheck fluid level to confirm proper level.


That's it your done and saved a pretty good chunk of change. Side note: After flush the shifting from park to reverse and to drive is noticeably smoother and not jar or clunking.
 
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I'll have to be the newbie that asks,.. on my old cars I just dropped the trans pan, measured how much fluid was removed and replaced that amount of fluid. "Flushing" always caused wear problems on older trans' so this was the way to avoid doing that. I also find it odd ya'll are running the engines while the fluid drains. Is the pan too hard to drop or in a terrible place?
 

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@DETROIT I have to say I totally agree with you. I don't see a need to get all the fluid out and leave it running while draining. Nor would I do a complete drain, yet alone a flush with a system.

There was no pulling the trans pan, I just undid the drain plug with the car off, then re-filled. Got the car back up to temperature and re-measured the fluid level. I'd rather do a drain & fill every 30k and let the fluid mix than do a complete fluid change and shock the transmission.
 
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Yes, it's almost exactly the same. The trans case may be slightly different, but not different to where you won't be able to figure out what you're looking for.

You said it correctly, drain via the plug, replace plug, fill with the same amount of fluid, and verify the level is the same as when you started.

You'll have to remove the air box, but if you check the fluid level with the engine warm and running (as you're supposed to do), make sure you have the sensor plugged into the air box cover (I used a bungee cord to good the filter to the box lid). Running the car will temporarily give you a DTC that also doesn't allow the A/C to work til the code goes away.

You'll also have to remove the fabric aero cover thing before you start, but that's just a couple bolts.

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I was able to reach between the box and the cooler lines to reach the cap. I would suggest loosening the cap while the car is cold and using a pair of mechanics gloves as the car gets hot. The coolant lines are very close to the cap and your fingers will be against them as you turn the cap.

To check the level, the cap needs to be turned until it drops down into the notch, the arrow isn't visible due to the lines being in the way, but you can do it by feel using your finger tips.

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