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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi gang. There has been quite a bit of discussion about damaged and bent wheels on the forums lately, especially at the tail end of a rough winter. So, not being sure if everyone knows that wheels can be straightened/repaired, I figured I would begin a new thread, instead of hijacking another.

Instead of paying a bundle to replace a factory wheel or replace all four wheels with aftermarket wheels, it is possible, in many/most instances, to have a bent and/or cosmetically damaged wheel straightened/refinished.

Essentially, If you Google "Automotive wheel repair in my area" most of us should be able to get at least a short list of wheel repair companies and specialists in your own area.

How do I know this...you may ask? ;) I just had a bent 19" wheel on my sisters car straightened for her (humongous pothole and also flat tire).

Now, there are obvious re-straightening/repair limitations as to where the damage is and how much. For example, the first question I was asked by all three companies I called was "Is the visible bend on the outside (visible face) or the inside (suspension side) of the wheel." In my sister's case, it was on the inside. Once I told them that, they all said "Sure, it should be able to be straightened". Also, in her case it was not a significant bend. Enough to feel when driving, but not as bad as many of the "Before/After" display photos the companies showed on their websites.

Anyway, the price quotes I received to straighten a wheel ranged from $85-$125. And one of the companies will actually come out to your home, business etc., remove the wheel, straighten it onsite in their fully equipped double trailer, then reinstall the wheel etc
I decided to remove and reinstall her wheel beforehand, being a bit OCD about my own car, impact wrenches etc. After all, it was my sister.:D
The wheel was road force balanced with a new tire and actually had less balance weights on it after the straightening than before. :D

A new factory wheel for her car would have run ~$800. And that was after me negotiating the price down from the ~$944 list price from several Ford Dealers I called the day after the accident (a Saturday). I also called 3 different wheel repair companies that same day (knowing they were closed). They all called me back on Monday.

For those unlucky enough to hit a pothole and bend a wheel, $85-$125 is much better than $400-$500...$800-$900 etc for a new wheel.

The company I used is a national franchise that will come to your location to repair the wheel. So if anyone has been unlucky and is interested, I can give them the company name and you can Google to see if they have a franchise in your location. I can vouch for the franchise owner/tech who did my work (in NJ), and would hope all their franchise owners would be as good.

Otherwise, just Google "Automotive wheel repair in my area", as mentioned above.

As an additional FYI: I asked about the procedure for cosmetic wheel repair (curb rash et.), and was told that repairing curb rash or other cosmetically damaged wheels usually requires them having the wheel for at least 24 hours for a full and proper repair, refinishing, repainting etc. I don't quote any pricing for that, as I did not ask and assume cosmetic repair pricing will depend on the amount of work necessary,

Hope this helps anyone who may bend or damage a wheel and did not know they can be repaired. May possibly save you a lot of money.

Feel free to ask any questions and good luck.
 
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Thanks for this! Btw - I looked into refinishing my wheels because they are scratched, chipped, lightly rashed from driving through many scrap yards and unfinished roads. Refinishing was not an economical proposition versus a reasonable set of aftermarket wheels. If I recall correctly, the sight unseen over-the-phone estimate based on my verbal description came in at a starting point of $200 each not including dismount and M&B of my tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for this! Btw - I looked into refinishing my wheels because they are scratched, chipped, lightly rashed from driving through many scrap yards and unfinished roads. Refinishing was not an economical proposition versus a reasonable set of aftermarket wheels. If I recall correctly, the sight unseen over-the-phone estimate based on my verbal description came in at a starting point of $200 each not including dismount and M&B of my tires.
Hi Shawnski. Yes, I would assume refinishing would be more expensive than straightening (as metroplex can attest to).

As opposed to the straightening, which took ~60-90 minutes to complete right in front of my house, a cosmetic repair was described as entailing repairing/refinishing, possibly milling, repainting (color and clearcoat) etc. And a minimum 24 hours without the wheel for a proper, off the car job.

As far as what is worth it to each of us...Yes, it is a personal decision. When I look at aftermarket wheels I like, I would be spending a minimum of $1,200+. And a new factory wheel was $800+. So $85 out the door for a perfect straightening job, instead of a new factory wheel or 4 aftermarkets was a bargain and no-brainer in my case.

And as my wife says, a no-brainer is perfect for me. 🙃

Good luck. ;)
 
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I am still pushing to buy a set of 18 wheels and tires, but I just don't know where to put these 4 stock wheels. I'm not sure they'd garner much value on the market and am not sure the aftermarket wheels would hurt the value of the car if I were to sell it later on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am still pushing to buy a set of 18 wheels and tires, but I just don't know where to put these 4 stock wheels. I'm not sure they'd garner much value on the market and am not sure the aftermarket wheels would hurt the value of the car if I were to sell it later on.
Hi metroplex. Generally speaking, aftermarket wheels won't usually hurt resale value. Unless...it is a very informed buyer who knows that the Fusion Sport came with 19" wheels and notices the wheels are not factory and 18" instead of 19". That would probably be a rare occurrence.

Good luck.
 

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Metro is right about Detroit Wheel & Tire. They only deal with OEM Wheels. They have quite a collection. I traded in my Stock wheels for the stock wheel in black chrome finish. But, they have all the Ford style wheels in different finishes.
They will repair or refinish your wheel(s).
 

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Detroit Wheel and Tire repaired and completely refinished one of my wheels for $175. You can't even tell the difference.
We buy from them now n then, Keystone is another one that does a good job. We do a lot of reburbed wheels just because of the cost difference versus new, but still there are times when its only new. Had a Benz last week, got a 1500 wheel with a run flat tire. That was a fun one to mount, LOL.
 

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Metro is right about Detroit Wheel & Tire. They only deal with OEM Wheels. They have quite a collection. I traded in my Stock wheels for the stock wheel in black chrome finish. But, they have all the Ford style wheels in different finishes.
They will repair or refinish your wheel(s).
Hey maydk65, you got any photos of those black chrome rims? Their site doesn't do them justice. Need 1 refinished , not sure if they can perfectly match only one.
 

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Here you go.

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Anyone know if our stock lugnuts (and Gorillas for that matter) would work with aftermarket wheels like BBS?
Hi metroplex. It all depends on the particular wheel. The lugnuts for our factory wheel are "bulge acorn type", with a 60° tapered cone base. So you need to be sure the wheels you choose can/would also use a 60° tapered cone base, bulge acorn type lugnut.

Or if the wheel you want does not have a seat that can accept that type of lugnut, just buy the lugnuts you would need. Most wheel manufacturers/suppliers will also sell the correct lugnut, if you need it.

Let us know how you make out and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I am looking at BBS SX and SR wheels. I don’t know what type of lug nuts they use.
Hi metroplex. Nice wheels. (y)

I just checked the BBS site, but could not find a listing for what type of lug nuts are used/required for each wheel type (although it is possible I missed it). They list the lug circle size, offset etc, but not lug nut type.

If no one else can give you a definitive answer, your best bet would probably be to call BBS or a BBS wheel shop/seller. If it were me, I would call anyway, just to be sure.

My thoughts? The factory lugnut seat/base type will probably be compatible. However, even if you discover our factory lugnuts will not work, just buy the necessary lugnuts. If you're spending that much money for wheels, what's another $70-$90?

Let us know how you make out and good luck.
 

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You can tell I am not into wheels. I just can't stand these 19" stock wheels, and went to Discount Tire today to have them look at the one that was giving me vibrations and TPMS errors.

They took measurements on the tread depth and claimed it was 3/32" or below so they won't touch it unless I buy a new one. I took measurements as 5/32" but they claim the lowest value is what they use. I outright asked if he just measured on the shoulder of the tire. BS! He also claimed tire pressure was 40 psi, but my gauges all showed 43 psi. I'll never buy the tire replacement certificate ever. Only good for 3 years and if they are free to make claims about the tread being 3/32", what good is that certificate other than for the first year or so when a tire explodes? Even then they make you pay for a new certificate. I did the math and I'd have to have 3 tire replacements with their certificates to come out with saving money. Otherwise just roll the dice.

I may just get the 18" wheels for the thicker sidewall tires and store the 19s as "spares" for my dad's Fusion Sport.
 

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The OE lug nuts with the sheet metal caps on them are terrible. I’ve had numerous bad experiences with them for many years and many Fords I’ve owned. I’ve started to replace them with solid aftermarket lug nuts the first winter tire/wheel transition. However; due to the FuSport having a larger diameter stud, it was much harder to find replacements with the 60 degree seat. So I’m still using the factory lug nuts on my stock wheels, but I’ve had to replace almost every one of them in onesy-twosy over the years due to swelling and rounding of the sheet metal caps. Through this forum I found the applicable Gorilla lug nuts, but since half my stock lug nuts are less than 3 years old, I’ve just put off buying them.
 

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Anyone know if our stock lugnuts (and Gorillas for that matter) would work with aftermarket wheels like BBS?
Yes, just need 14mm by 1.5 thread. I have Spline drive Gorillas on both of mine, Only issue is they don't hold up in our part of the country with the salt we get in the winter, tend to get rusty. The regular Fusion's use a 12 by 1.5 thread.
 

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Yes, just need 14mm by 1.5 thread. I have Spline drive Gorillas on both of mine, Only issue is they don't hold up in our part of the country with the salt we get in the winter, tend to get rusty. The regular Fusion's use a 12 by 1.5 thread.
I have new Gorillas (not spline drive) in 14x1.5 still in the box, and the reason I asked about stock lugnuts with the BBS wheels is that it is easier to ask versus aftermarket Gorillas.

Are you running BBS wheels?

The dealer included Gorilla locking lugnuts on the Explorer and Fusion Sport, and the Explorer's are rusting at the corners. Not a big deal because the back of those wheels are corroding fairly badly since I daily drive it in the winter. I use salt remover and rinse it thoroughly after each drive in the slush. But I never trusted the McGard locking lugs since the tops seem pretty frail and the pics of failed McGard locking lugs kind of affirmed my feelings. 150 ft-lb is a lot of torque for lugnuts, I think my dad's E-250 with load range E wheels (8 lugs) were 160 ft-lb each.

I've used these Ford lugnuts for the past 20+ years in various vehicles and never had a problem. Not saying they cheaped out or the problems don't exist, just saying they've never given me problems. I also don't use an impact gun on them. I do know these 14x1.5 lugnuts are 21mm and not 13/16". Some shops might be using the wrong sockets. who knows.
 
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