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I am looking to upgrade my sound system in my car. I have the 17 Fusion Sport with 12 speakers. I would like to upgrade my 6x9's in the deck. Just want more good quality sounding bass that puts out more bass. Not sure where to turn to. I saw the JBL GTO939 but I'm not sure. I'm willing to spend $600 on speakers. If I replace the 6x9 in the deck, and I can just put the tweeters in the rear doors. I would also like to possibly replace the front speakers in the doors but I want it to match the sound in the back.. I can up my price if needed.. And if someone could help, the stock amps... I heard that there is two amps in the 17 fusion sport with 12 speakers but I can't really find much info on it. I would like to know information about the amp.
 

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Honestly if you're looking for a little more bass why not just put like a single 10 in the trunk? I think my 19 has the same sound system as the 17 but I cant imagine putting money into the sound system as it sits.
 

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I am looking to upgrade my sound system in my car. I have the 17 Fusion Sport with 12 speakers. I would like to upgrade my 6x9's in the deck. Just want more good quality sounding bass that puts out more bass. Not sure where to turn to. I saw the JBL GTO939 but I'm not sure. I'm willing to spend $600 on speakers. If I replace the 6x9 in the deck, and I can just put the tweeters in the rear doors. I would also like to possibly replace the front speakers in the doors but I want it to match the sound in the back.. I can up my price if needed.. And if someone could help, the stock amps... I heard that there is two amps in the 17 fusion sport with 12 speakers but I can't really find much info on it. I would like to know information about the amp.
 

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Our system, like many modern factory "premium" systems, is a pain. You might gain a little quality by replacing the speakers, but you won't gain much volume without adding an amp. The rear deck speakers are the subs. They only get low frequency signal which tapers off at high volume levels. It's mostly just a bass filler. All four doors have a mid-sub and a tweeter. The doors get a single full range signal, which is split and filtered at the speakers, so if you add an amp for a sub, I'd use the door signal. The problem with that , as I understand, is the doors are what provide the noise cancelation, so if you hook a sub into that signal, you might end up with some crazy engine sound amplification.

I have a NVX sound processor pulling the bass signal off the rear deck temporarily, and that sends the signal to a 2k watt monoblock class D amp. If all you want is more bass, that setup works pretty well. However, since the rear deck ONLY gets the bass signal, my sound processor doesn't know that the volume is being turned up past a certain point (due to the factory bass drop-off) so it can't compensate for the dropped bass volume. Therefore, I plan to hook into the door signal once I have an opportunity to dive back into the trunk. I'll cross the noise cancelation issue bridge when I get to it.
 

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Few tidbits of background knowledge for you if you want to get started, in addition to what bot_rocket said:

  • There is only one amp in the 12-speaker Sony systems. Ford calls it the DSP. As bot_rocket mentioned tho, it also is a sound processor and not all speakers get the same signal.
  • Front tweeters (and I believe the front-center channel) are handled by the ACM directly. Rear tweeters are passed through the rear-door mids through filters.
  • There's no tapping into the pre-amp signal in these cars as it's A2B digital right to the DSP. I am personally not where people are getting their pre-amp sign from since Ford made the change to this A2B setup in 2017, hopefully someone else can chime (or look at other Ford forums, I believe anything with the B&O Play system is A2B as well).
  • If you anything noticeable to the audio system, it's recommended to disable the Active Noise Control (ANC) system. It'll interfere with subs & aftermarket amps for sure, and may also cause other undesirable noises if you start messing with door speakers.

In my experience with Ford/Sony systems, if you want more bass, install an aftermarket amp & sub. The stock subs (or the two 6x9 component "subs" in our case) are very efficient, so just swapping them out to run off the stock will either be nearly no change, or change for the worse. You can upgrade the door speakers, but it'll likely be a minimal improvement as they're decent poly cones from factory (far from audiophile grade, but still decent for the signal that's being pushed to them).

Most do something similar to bot_rocket - add a sub & aftermarket amp so your mids aren't the ones handling the bass, and that's the end of it.
 

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Few tidbits of background knowledge for you if you want to get started, in addition to what bot_rocket said:

  • There is only one amp in the 12-speaker Sony systems. Ford calls it the DSP. As bot_rocket mentioned tho, it also is a sound processor and not all speakers get the same signal.
  • Front tweeters (and I believe the front-center channel) are handled by the ACM directly. Rear tweeters are passed through the rear-door mids through filters.
  • There's no tapping into the pre-amp signal in these cars as it's A2B digital right to the DSP. I am personally not where people are getting their pre-amp sign from since Ford made the change to this A2B setup in 2017, hopefully someone else can chime (or look at other Ford forums, I believe anything with the B&O Play system is A2B as well).
  • If you anything noticeable to the audio system, it's recommended to disable the Active Noise Control (ANC) system. It'll interfere with subs & aftermarket amps for sure, and may also cause other undesirable noises if you start messing with door speakers.

In my experience with Ford/Sony systems, if you want more bass, install an aftermarket amp & sub. The stock subs (or the two 6x9 component "subs" in our case) are very efficient, so just swapping them out to run off the stock will either be nearly no change, or change for the worse. You can upgrade the door speakers, but it'll likely be a minimal improvement as they're decent poly cones from factory (far from audiophile grade, but still decent for the signal that's being pushed to them).

Most do something similar to bot_rocket - add a sub & aftermarket amp so your mids aren't the ones handling the bass, and that's the end of it.
Since my hearing is not that good mine sounds pretty good to me. My system sounds much better if I use my thumb drive which I have loaded with MP3 and WMA music. The radio even SXM sounds tinny to me. Not many of the systems out there play the WMA format anymore as they have gotten away from CD's.. I do like the fact that you can take the thumb drive out and put in in the next day and the player remembers where you left off. I kind of like the 2 small speakers that are high on the doors.
 

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Yeah SXM has the worse audio quality, completely unacceptable in 2020 in my opinion. I only use either ripped CDs, either over Plex or USB, or Spotify at max quality. Connecting your phone over USB to use Android Auto allows the sound to output via USB as well, which is another small improvement in sound quality.
 

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One thing that occurs to me is that the audio on the Sony system (which is what I have in mine) must be pretty decent for the satellite signal compression to be an issue. I think the audio in our cars is better than a lot of people think it is, and they're just using sources that aren't as good in many cases. Because if it was actually the audio system itself causing the problem, it wouldn't matter so much what the source was, it would always sound bad.

Our system sounds pretty good to me. But then, when I listen to music I'm generally listening on USB using high-quality encoded files.

Anyway my point is I think it sounds really good, but you just have to be sure you're playing a good source. Sometimes a better audio system can make things sound worse, if the source is bad, by highlighting the weaknesses in the source audio. I wonder if that's some of what's happening to some people with our cars.

For what it's worth, my wife's got the 210W "premium audio" (non-Sony) system in her Fusion and it sounds pretty good to me too, although I like the Sony for the feature set it has. I just wish it had an EQ maybe.
 

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Just don't blast too much bass or else the spot welds in the trunk under the glass will crack and water will leak in.
That's a little scary. You ever seen that with stock audio systems in our cars? I wonder if that affects the MKZs. They have a better audio system than ours with that Revel system, I imagine it can put out enough to crack the welds stock, if the welds are done the same way.
 

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Most of the time the factory sound systems are just branding and not the best quality. The Sony speakers in our cars aren't bad with the polymer cones. The 2 factory subwoofers in the rear shouldn't damage those welds but there's a few people with wet trunks that eventually found out the leaks were from the spot welds that cracked due to the bass levels from their aftermarket subs.
 

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To be fair, those kinds of issues can happen with any car with aftermarket subs cranked up. Just go look up slo-mo videos of cars with subs on youtube and see how much the sheet metal flexes.

You will be more than fine with the stock 6x9's, even with bass at max settings.
 
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To be fair, those kinds of issues can happen with any car with aftermarket subs cranked up. Just go look up slo-mo videos of cars with subs on youtube and see how much the sheet metal flexes.

You will be more than fine with the stock 6x9's, even with bass at max settings.
I can believe that. I've seen cars before that obviously had an aftermarket amp and subs added, and you could visibly see the car vibrate standing outside it a few feet away. I imagine that repetitive flexing stresses a lot of things.
 

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I,m currently building a system for mine, but I also only have the 9 speaker OEM in it so it shouldnt be any different than what I had in my 13 other than the fake engine noise. That may have to go bye bye. Should be a nice system when its all done. 700 watts into one 10' Kicker VX, 4 channel 100 watts a piece for the doors and another 125 a piece for the 6x9's in the deck.
 

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Most of the time the factory sound systems are just branding and not the best quality. The Sony speakers in our cars aren't bad with the polymer cones. The 2 factory subwoofers in the rear shouldn't damage those welds but there's a few people with wet trunks that eventually found out the leaks were from the spot welds that cracked due to the bass levels from their aftermarket subs.
Can you see the spot welds from inside the trunk? I wonder if this is my water leaking issue... I still havent found the source of the leak in my car.
 

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I,m currently building a system for mine, but I also only have the 9 speaker OEM in it so it shouldnt be any different than what I had in my 13 other than the fake engine noise. That may have to go bye bye. Should be a nice system when its all done. 700 watts into one 10' Kicker VX, 4 channel 100 watts a piece for the doors and another 125 a piece for the 6x9's in the deck.
It's fewer speakers, but it sounds pretty close to the power levels of the Revel Audio systems in the Lincolns. Sounds pretty awesome. :cool:
 

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It's fewer speakers, but it sounds pretty close to the power levels of the Revel Audio systems in the Lincolns. Sounds pretty awesome. :cool:
It should sound good, I had a nice system in my 13. Pulled it last weekend since I,m selling it, need few things from it for the sport, but for the most part this will new new system. One thing I did was buy a processor, which will do a lot for the sound quality.
 
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