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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How long did install take?
10 minute job on lift with air tools.

I'd guess 45 minutes to an hour with floor jack and hand tools.
You do have to remove both rear tires to get to nut on upper end
of sway bar link.

Also, without air tools, you will need metric allen wrench to hold
center of end link while you remove nut with wrench (ratchet wrench
would be best).
 

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Awesome. Hoping Steeda has a Labor day sale next week and I'm going to have to pick one of these up probably along with a hood strut kit.
 

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What's next? Strut Tower Brace Next? Hood Strut Kit? Lowering Springs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awesome. Hoping Steeda has a Labor day sale next week and I'm going to have to pick one of these up probably along with a hood strut kit.
Make sure you wrap sway bar between frame mounts, as it IS
going to rub on exh right before muffler. I lightly scratched paint
removing it from my 15 and the paint is not durable.

What's next? Strut Tower Brace Next? Hood Strut Kit? Lowering Springs?
Nope, going to redrill front bar like I did on my 15.
Bar has space.



This is what I did on my 15



Calc's on 15 front bar.

Anyway, using these numbers in this calc
8, 30, 9, 1, 0 (assume bar solid, feels pretty heavy)

Sway Bar Rate Calculator | GTSparkplugs

I get 510 lbs/in

Redoing calc using 7.2, 30, 9, 1, 0

gives me 606, or about 16% more.....

----------------------------------------------------

Otherwise, just preventative or convenience mods
for now.
 

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Interesting, any down side to ride quality?

Do you have a quick list of pros vs cons? ie. better cornering, accelerates front tires wear etc.

Did you also recalculate your sway bar link force?

First cup of coffee and I'm already full of questions...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Interesting, any down side to ride quality?

Do you have a quick list of pros vs cons? ie. better cornering, accelerates front tires wear etc.

Did you also recalculate your sway bar link force?

First cup of coffee and I'm already full of questions...
Not that I have found, sway bars really only change ride quality
from either urethane frame bushings or really rough roads.
The bigger the bar, the less your independent suspension
is truly independent.

I prefer overly crisp turn in if I can get it, even if it
hurts 10/10 handling overall. Redrilling front bar will add
back some understeer, but my 15 was still really neutral
after those mods and night and day in cornering.

Probably because adding rear bar to non-sport is bigger change than
adding it to sport. I'd still rather have less body roll,
than perfectly neutral handling (If I have to choose).

Worse, case, the end caps on rear bar are welded on.
Could grind them off, cut down ends of bar slightly,
and make new end caps that have 2 or 3 settings. Then
you could dial in oversteer if you want. I'd probably move
it in an inch, like the front. Any more than that , you are
probably over stressing bar.

If bar is 606 lbs/in;

End link is say 5/16 dia, or .077 in^2

The crappiest certified steel is right around 36k lbf yield.

So link would fail in tension @ 36K X .077 or 2761 lbf.

2761/606 = 4.56" So you would need a differential
travel of that of sway bar far to break end link. Think bar would break first.

Would have to measure link length to calc column in compression.

Stud mounting to frame or sway bar is 3/8ish. In single
shear that is 4K lbf to shear.

Probably weakest link is ball stud in tie rod. Don't know what that is
and can't find out.
 

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On my 2005 A4, the weakest link was the rear sway bar bracket where it bolted to the subframe. Had them welded back on for about $300. This RSB was something like 300% stiffer than stock though. It looks like the Sport's install in a similar bracket fashion. But it looks like we have more metal meat that is actually attached to the subframe. So, hopefully we won't have those issues!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
On my 2005 A4, the weakest link was the rear sway bar bracket where it bolted to the subframe. Had them welded back on for about $300. This RSB was something like 300% stiffer than stock though. It looks like the Sport's install in a similar bracket fashion. But it looks like we have more metal meat that is actually attached to the subframe. So, hopefully we won't have those issues!
There is no issue with rear sway bar frame mounts. Had my sway bar on my 15 fusion for almost 2 years and now
almost 1700 miles on my Sport.
 

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Do the rear wheels really have to come off for this install? I've never had to take wheels off for an RSB install in the past. I just want to prepare myself before I purchase a Steeda RSB.
 

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You were the only one to say they had to come off so I wanted to make sure.

Thank you for confirming it again.
 

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I can confirm it as well, they have to come off to remove and slide in the RSB.
 
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