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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
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I’m concerned about the long-term quality of the reflector lights themselves and if it means cutting my OE harness then I won’t do them. But if I had a plug in adapter then I would do them.
Exactly my thoughts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Let’s do this the right way!

1. Chamorro85
2. anotherfusion
3. Shawnski
4. MY27FUSION
5. Vidmo
6.
 

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Here is the connector:

View attachment 28725
I have a picture/model # of one of the connectors that looks similar.

Connector:Terminals:
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive wheel system
Water Wood Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper
Molex​
Molex​
33472-0606 Key A​
33012-2003​


For the terminals, you'll need at least 6 per connector (sometimes you can mess up the crimp or lose them)


Not entirely sure if you'll need rubber plugs for the connection, can't recall if the seal is inside, or around the wire insulation. They'd look something like this:
Toy Automotive lighting Personal protective equipment Automotive design Font

(The seal is the yellow rubber, not red)
Red Lego Font Auto part Jewellery

If you use heat shrink, I can almost guarantee that you'll be fine for at least 10 years. As long as the terminals are not exposed to any elements, with a decent solder connection.


You can pop the terminals out by using a very small screwdriver. Recommend watching youtube tutorials on it, be careful not to slip and impale it through your hand if anyone actually tries this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I have a picture/model # of one of the connectors that looks similar.

Connector:Terminals:
Molex​
Molex​
33472-0606 Key A​
33012-2003​


For the terminals, you'll need at least 6 per connector (sometimes you can mess up the crimp or lose them)


Not entirely sure if you'll need rubber plugs for the connection, can't recall if the seal is inside, or around the wire insulation. They'd look something like this:
View attachment 28774
(The seal is the yellow rubber, not red)

If you use heat shrink, I can almost guarantee that you'll be fine for at least 10 years. As long as the terminals are not exposed to any elements, with a decent solder connection.


You can pop the terminals out by using a very small screwdriver. Recommend watching youtube tutorials on it, be careful not to slip and impale it through your hand if anyone actually tries this.
I think you were on the same site I was. Thanks for the info!

The parts aren't expensive at all. It's running the wires, connecting everything properly.

I'm deff ok with paying for the time/labor to have a pair ready to go. He's matching these to the factory plugs already. Has wiring diagrams to make sure everything is legit.
 

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I think you were on the same site I was. Thanks for the info!

The parts aren't expensive at all. It's running the wires, connecting everything properly.

I'm deff ok with paying for the time/labor to have a pair ready to go. He's matching these to the factory plugs already. Has wiring diagrams to make sure everything is legit.
Actually got the picture of the connector/terminal from a work document, but the one I sent was for some Electric-Power-Steering system. (Automotive Industry uses some pretty standardized connectors. But occasionally will key them (notches in connector) to make it impossible to reverse polarity the part, or if the system has dual ECU's (for either backup or precise data validation). Usually, they change them up during new product developments, never really for manufacturing or material cost reduction. - Sometimes this makes it more difficult to repair/replace for the average consumer).


You're going about it the right way though, getting a schematic made will lessen the chance of potentially creating an unlikely short to your taillight LED bulbs. Are you creating a wire harness that runs all the way through the car to the source, or just tapping into the power right off the taillight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Actually got the picture of the connector/terminal from a work document, but the one I sent was for some Electric-Power-Steering system. (Automotive Industry uses some pretty standardized connectors. But occasionally will key them (notches in connector) to make it impossible to reverse polarity the part, or if the system has dual ECU's (for either backup or precise data validation). Usually, they change them up during new product developments, never really for manufacturing or material cost reduction. - Sometimes this makes it more difficult to repair/replace for the average consumer).


You're going about it the right way though, getting a schematic made will lessen the chance of potentially creating an unlikely short to your taillight LED bulbs. Are you creating a wire harness that runs all the way through the car to the source, or just tapping into the power right off the taillight?
I'm excited for them. I"m actually not making them. Found a guy who does wiring harnesses professionally. The harness will plug in between the factory harness at the taillight and the twilight itself with a third set of wires ready to be tapped for the LED Markers. Don't have to splice into the factory harness or cut up anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Let’s do this the right way!

1. Chamorro85
2. anotherfusion
3. Shawnski
4. MY27FUSION
5. Vidmo
6.
Anyone else thats been peaking at this thread? Going to reach out and see what sort of turn around and how he wants to handle payment/shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Confirming time frame for these. Final price is $85.50 + $10 shipping. If you can PM me your user name, actually name and shipping information along with PayPal email.

He'll use that to match up the payments with the correct person to send them to.
 
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