[Botani]

Planning to get a BOV and MKZ gauge cluster.
1- Does the MKZ gauge cluster remove the fake engine noise inside? Asking since it’s related to the internal cluster. Because I actually like the engine noise. If it does remove it, isn’t there away to add it?
2- Which BOV do I purchase? I want one where it doesn’t develop any long term issues, considering I read one of the forums that said the Steeda shouldn’t be bought because it creates throttle response problems? Not sure.
Please advise

 

[Skipe]

Fake engine noise is in the ACM, has nothing to do with the cluster. Far as the BOV goes, Turbosmart is the best choice, you can get two different types, a plumb back which is just an upgrade over the stock one which is known to leak at higher boost levels. Dual port which will get you the woosh factor. I run a plumb back, and if I need my fix of WHOOSH I'll put my Boomba adaptor under it, and get all the woosh I want, till it gets old, and pull the adaptor. Far as venting to atmosphere goes, there's a lot of talk. Does it hurt throttle response, or mess with speed density. I've driven mine both ways, can't say for certain I felt a difference between the two.

 

[Shawnski]

I’m with Skipe. I used to run the GFB with a Steeda VTA that my father-in-law machined out to stack under it. Last year I switched to a used TurboSmart dual port and sold my old setup to my son. I feel the TurboSmart holds boost better, vents less often and for shorter durations. Not as sassy as the old setup that whooshed with every throttle lift, but also not dumping boost between every shift on the drag strip anymore!

 

[TylerSchafer97]

For what it is worth I went with the mechanical Turbosmart BOV (Part Number: TS-0203-1081) over the Electronic options and I love it! The OEM electronic unit would act really funky and vent while accelerating. The Mechanical valve will only open at a certain amount of vacuum rather than depending on a computer to tell it when to open and close. You will need to tap a vacuum line at the Throttle body, pretty easy to do, Turbo Smart sends you all the hardware you will need. The valve itself holds boost really well and I rarely hear it vent.

 

[OX1]

For what it is worth I went with the mechanical Turbosmart BOV (Part Number: TS-0203-1081) over the Electronic options and I love it! The OEM electronic unit would act really funky and vent while accelerating. The Mechanical valve will only open at a certain amount of vacuum rather than depending on a computer to tell it when to open and close. You will need to tap a vacuum line at the Throttle body, pretty easy to do, Turbo Smart sends you all the hardware you will need. The valve itself holds boost really well and I rarely hear it vent.

No codes or issues from getting more boost than the ECM wanted? What are you using to control boost, just whatever spring is set to in actuator?

 

[TylerSchafer97]

No codes or issues from getting more boost than the ECM wanted? What are you using to control boost, just whatever spring is set to in actuator?

When I was running livernois93 the car did not a WOT 3-4 shift, it would give a turbocharger overboost code. Since switching to Unleashed ive had 0 problems. Not 100% sure but I believe Torrie changes the boost parameters, last log I took I am at about 20.4lbs of boost around the 3-4 shift and 0 codes ever with Torrie. KNOCK ON WOOD!!

 

[Skipe]

The BOV is very tunable , a lot of things that can be done to set it up the way you want it. You could go with a Tiel valve really easy, buy a MAC valve and just wire it to the same circuit used for the OEM electric valve. Like, Tyler said, just need to find a vacuum source, and plumb it up. I know you can order the EEP charge pipes either way, set up for a OEM valve or Tiel.

 

[MFGL]

Planning to get a BOV and MKZ gauge cluster.
1- Does the MKZ gauge cluster remove the fake engine noise inside? Asking since it’s related to the internal cluster. Because I actually like the engine noise. If it does remove it, isn’t there away to add it?
2- Which BOV do I purchase? I want one where it doesn’t develop any long term issues, considering I read one of the forums that said the Steeda shouldn’t be bought because it creates throttle response problems? Not sure.
Please advise

If you want to get rid of the fake engine noise you can have the TSB for the battery drain done. It removes the fake engine noise. I find the actual engine induction noise much better then the fake exhaust note.