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I'm going next week. Plan is: traction control off, sport mode, leave it in auto, brake torque from 2000-2500. I tried a few launches last night and what I just described seemed to work well. I've heard that you can only brake torque for a few seconds before the computer kills the fun but I haven't experienced it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm going next week. Plan is: traction control off, sport mode, leave it in auto, brake torque from 2000-2500. I tried a few launches last night and what I just described seemed to work well. I've heard that you can only brake torque for a few seconds before the computer kills the fun but I haven't experienced it.
Thanks for the info. I was wondering because the more i tried to foot brake it, the slower it seamed to leave.
 

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Are you tuned or stock?
I’m tuned and I do the T/C off, Sport mode in D and brake torque to 2500 for launch. I’ve tried 3000 and it just spins tires too much; no advantage gained in 60ft. I have noticed that when I first started racing the car was dumping boost and rpms if I got on the revs too early. But as I’ve raced much more often this season, it seems as though the computer has learned what I’m trying to do and I have not had issues with it anymore! I also changed my starting line tactics as I got more comfortable and learned the car. I will light the first staging lights then wait for the other guy to light up both, then get on the tach and scootch up on the brakes to just tickle the second lights. That way I’m on the tach for the shortest period possible. It’s possible that manipulating the brakes while on the tach is making the computer less eager to dump boost because it thinks I’m doing something? Idk. I just know it works.
 

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I would take a peek at some of TwinForce_Fusion and Fastest_Fusions_Sport race videos to see how they stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are you tuned or stock?
I’m tuned and I do the T/C off, Sport mode in D and brake torque to 2500 for launch. I’ve tried 3000 and it just spins tires too much; no advantage gained in 60ft. I have noticed that when I first started racing the car was dumping boost and rpms if I got on the revs too early. But as I’ve raced much more often this season, it seems as though the computer has learned what I’m trying to do and I have not had issues with it anymore! I also changed my starting line tactics as I got more comfortable and learned the car. I will light the first staging lights then wait for the other guy to light up both, then get on the tach and scootch up on the brakes to just tickle the second lights. That way I’m on the tach for the shortest period possible. It’s possible that manipulating the brakes while on the tach is making the computer less eager to dump boost because it thinks I’m doing something? Idk. I just know it works.
total stock. I just bought the car last month. It's a lease turn-in, so it could be that the computer just needs to re-learn. I am putting 93 in it, and driving it spirited. Do you think disconnecting the neg. battery terminal and then making passes will help?
 

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After I stage I wait until the lights start to drop and floor it, good for 1.8 60'
Just long enough to get the RPM's up before the PCM cuts power
Also I had 1/4 tank of fuel and add 2 gallons of 108 when I got to the track
 

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I just went for my second time this past wed. I've been slowly improving my 60' and launching the car.

I'm stock too. I turn TC off and keep it in sport. Usually at the track with 1/4 tank.

After stage I pretty much wait until the first yellow lights up before I'm on the accelerator. Don't let it go over 2.5k and send it on green. Plan on going again tonight because cooler weather. Should be able to run a 13.7 like the car mags say.

See below: car 034 (yes I know I got smoked lol).

27058
 

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Are you tuned or stock?
I’m tuned and I do the T/C off, Sport mode in D and brake torque to 2500 for launch. I’ve tried 3000 and it just spins tires too much; no advantage gained in 60ft. I have noticed that when I first started racing the car was dumping boost and rpms if I got on the revs too early. But as I’ve raced much more often this season, it seems as though the computer has learned what I’m trying to do and I have not had issues with it anymore! I also changed my starting line tactics as I got more comfortable and learned the car. I will light the first staging lights then wait for the other guy to light up both, then get on the tach and scootch up on the brakes to just tickle the second lights. That way I’m on the tach for the shortest period possible. It’s possible that manipulating the brakes while on the tach is making the computer less eager to dump boost because it thinks I’m doing something? Idk. I just know it works.
Good info. I only went once, but felt 12.72 @ 108 was all I was going to get anyway. It's my DD, don't want to beat it for no reason.
Anyway, what happens if the other guy is also waiting for you to light both staging lights, LOL!!! (many guys do this so they have
complete control on time vs the green)
 

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Whenever you talk drag racing, people get hung up on one thing or another being “most important”. Some say 60ft is everything, or R/T is everything. But IMO it’s all the measurements combined that matter and in any combination they can make or break you. My best night ever, winning my class, the car never broke 12.60 and ran a 12.97 in the final - it was brutal trying to keep my dial in correct. (Choosing a dial in is an exercise in tactical thinking that I think is among the “most important“ going back to my statement about getting hung up one thing or another.) My P.R. E/T was a 12.38 when my 60ft was 1.94 and my R/T was terrible. But my P/R 60ft and R/T were coupled to a 12.64 E/T. Bracket racing is complicated and it takes time to learn these cars, especially if you’re modding it constantly and progressively getting faster. And it really doesn’t help that they’re not naturally consistent. I’ve been racing and modding my car since I bought it new and I just got it all figured out this season. Finally being competitive makes it truly fun to go to the track. You will not regret going racing and learning your cars limitations and quirks!
 

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Good info. I only went once, but felt 12.72 @ 108 was all I was going to get anyway. It's my DD, don't want to beat it for no reason.
Anyway, what happens if the other guy is also waiting for you to light both staging lights, LOL!!! (many guys do this so they have
complete control on time vs the green)
At my track it’s about 60% guys with enough money to buy fast cars but who’ve never raced, 20% guys with bone-stock 17 second beaters who may or may not have raced before, and 20% with Mustang/Hellcat/Home built drag racers with the experience and hardware to be competitive. Up until recently, I was flying way under the radar of the guys who were experienced enough to play the staging game, and once they realized my FuSport wasn’t a “two liter beater”, they started to get focused. I’m living rent free in their heads, and I can often rush them into the staging lights if I can’t stall them.
 

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I also changed my starting line tactics as I got more comfortable and learned the car. I will light the first staging lights then wait for the other guy to light up both, then get on the tach and scootch up on the brakes to just tickle the second lights. That way I’m on the tach for the shortest period possible. It’s possible that manipulating the brakes while on the tach is making the computer less eager to dump boost because it thinks I’m doing something? Idk. I just know it works.
Can you explain this more? You're on the throttle already as you stage and then continue brake torquing until the green? If so, why not stage first and then brake torque?
 

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I might have done a bad job of writing it but, no I don’t get on the tach until I’ve idled into the first stage, the “Pre-stage” lights. Then I bring the tach up to 2500 on the brakes, inch the brakes up to just light the second staging light.
My track runs a Sportsman’s tree, so if the other guy is already fully staged, it’s only .500 second countdown between amber lights so it doesn’t dump boost or retard revs in that short time.
This way I don’t have to look back at the tiny little cartoon tach buried in the lower left side of my IP. I have bad eyesight due to a brain injury and I can’t change my focus from near to far without conscious effort and time. Getting to 2500 and “setting” my right foot on the throttle while looking at the tach, then shifting my vision focus to the tree while using my left foot to inch into lights, is what works best for me to be consistent and methodical. If I’m racing a guy who is much slower than me then I’ve had slight issues with being revved up on the brakes for up to 4 seconds waiting for my green, but in those cases it’s more important to cut the best light and be damn sure you’ve chosen the right dial-in than to get a pre-expected 60 ft. time!
 
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My track runs a Sportsman’s tree, so if the other guy is already fully staged, it’s only .500 second countdown between amber lights so it doesn’t dump boost or retard revs in that short time.
Ah, that's the part of the story I didn't get before. Makes sense now, thanks. I wonder if my track is like that...
 

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Some have been having very good luck and more consistency launching in 2nd. Sport mode and manual mode. I tried it casually the other night from a stop sign and dear God it felt a lot stronger than any 1st gear launch I've done and I am unleashed tuned on 93. 1st gear is just so damn inconsistent if you haven't mastered the techniques like talked about above. Rich McDonald has gotten down to 12.0x launching in 2nd. Granted he's E30-50 tuned but does not have upgraded turbos yet...a hair from the 11s without turbos is huge.

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I’m going to have to try launching in second. I’ve had some transmission shifting issues and last time I raced it was badly slurring the 2-3 shift. I put the car in Sport mode, manual shifted to 1st, then let the computer up-shift on redline. That made it shift harder, and I ran 12.60-.70 for the night but got knocked out in the quarterfinals. There’s only one more Thursday night event left for the season so I’ve got to pray for good weather so I can try the second gear method. Thanks for suggesting that VanWilder!
 
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I’m going to have to try launching in second. I’ve had some transmission shifting issues and last time I raced it was badly slurring the 2-3 shift. I put the car in Sport mode, manual shifted to 1st, then let the computer up-shift on redline. That made it shift harder, and I ran 12.60-.70 for the night but got knocked out in the quarterfinals. There’s only one more Thursday night event left for the season so I’ve got to pray for good weather so I can try the second gear method. Thanks for suggesting that VanWilder!
No problem man!! I talked to Torrie at Unleashed too and he can update your tune for launching in 2nd so the car doesn't automatically try to downshift to 1st when brake boosting on the line as well.

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Ah, that's the part of the story I didn't get before. Makes sense now, thanks. I wonder if my track is like that...
Most likely is...a Pro tree is when all the lights go amber at once then the green is .400 later. That’s not very common for any street legal events.
 
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