This is my first Direct Injection engine and ive heard the stories of intake valve carbon build up for years. Since I got a brand new engine I would like to try and avoid ever having to deal with that so im thinking of buying an oil catch can. However I have no experience with oil catch cans. They seem simple enough to install, how often do you need to empty them? Whats a good price to pay for one? Ive seen some as low as 20 dollars as others as high as 400 dollars. If anyone has installed one already, got any pictures or where or how you mounted it in the engine bay?
Oil Catch Can Thoughts?
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Thinking about this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-85474...qid=1472307526&sr=1-24&keywords=oil+catch+can
https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-85474...qid=1472307526&sr=1-24&keywords=oil+catch+can
Thinking this one might be a better option. More expensive, but we need dual inlet valves. Also seems to come with a lot of brackets, hoses, clamps.
2015-2016 F150 3.5L EcoBoost McNally RX Oil Separator with CSS MI1028-7-MP1065-12
2015-2016 F150 3.5L EcoBoost McNally RX Oil Separator with CSS MI1028-7-MP1065-12
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There's already catch cans designed for the 2.0, for instance, at the least the '13-'16. I realize the hoses may be a different length and/or the adapter plate might not line up. I'm sure there will be a custom Sport compatible catch can available very soon.
Boomba's may work for instance or they'll have one for it, I'm assuming. Boomba Fusion/MKZ 2.0 Ecoboost Stage 2 Oil Catch Can Kit
Boomba's may work for instance or they'll have one for it, I'm assuming. Boomba Fusion/MKZ 2.0 Ecoboost Stage 2 Oil Catch Can Kit
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something I have been waiting on also
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Just bought my Mobile 1 and motorcraft filter yesterday. All set to change it in about 40ish miles when it hits 1k.
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Is the suggested first maintenance 1k? I looked at the service interval reminders on the FordPass app, and everything showed 10k mile intervals.
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Some people like to hit an oil change at around 1000 miles because during the break in period you can get metal shavings in the oil. So people will change it to get that out, and get fresh oil in and then go to the normal intervals.
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I've been debating when i want to do my first change since day one. I was going to do it at 500, but i was worried that might not be enough to break it in before switching to synthetic. I figure 1k should be enough if i don't drive it like a sally. I'll be doing every 6-7k here after.
Back on topic, I won't be using a catch can either.
Back on topic, I won't be using a catch can either.
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i used to be a 3000 mile max oil change guy, but have extended out to 6-7k the last few vehicles. Manufactures recommendations have gotten up past 10k in some cases, and I only use synthetic, so it can go a little longer than the conventional stuff ford is happy to go 7.5-10k with.
I think a catch can is pretty useless until you turn up the boost significantly or get way up in mileage and have some loss of compression.
I think a catch can is pretty useless until you turn up the boost significantly or get way up in mileage and have some loss of compression.
Useless? Do you know what an oil catch can does and why its important for Direct Injection engines?
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Specifically regarding direct injection issues, since there's no fuel coming through the intake valves to "clean" them, the oil that comes through the vent and back into the intake cakes onto the valve rods and causes some nasty carbon buildup. It's an issue that affects all direct injection engines, though it seems to be worse with forced induction due to the pressurized air helping precipitate some of the oil from a gas back to a liquid prior to entering the engine.
Jayson, if you come up with a good idea for a can or find one that is designed for this car I'd be interested to know.
Jayson, if you come up with a good idea for a can or find one that is designed for this car I'd be interested to know.
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Ok, I've changed my mind on the catch can and will be putting one on there. I'm absolutely not spending 300 bones on one, nor will I even spend over 100. I plan on getting a cheap one that I can baffle myself.
One question that came up when I went out to pre-plan, though. One valve cover is piped pre turbo and has a sensor of some sort, and the other is piped post turbo with no sensor. This leads me to believe I might not be able to use a single can. Any theories on this?
One question that came up when I went out to pre-plan, though. One valve cover is piped pre turbo and has a sensor of some sort, and the other is piped post turbo with no sensor. This leads me to believe I might not be able to use a single can. Any theories on this?
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Yeah you either need to use 2 cans or you need a catch can with two intake plugs. Also I think you are following it wrong, the HVC line cant be post turbo as it would send air back through the HVC system in the wrong direction. It has to be pre-turbo.
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I thought the same, but there is definitely a hose going from the valve cover to the plenum that has an oily residue in both ends of the hose.
I dont think the red line you are pointing too is post turbo. The throttle body is directly to the left it, no way the throttle body is post turbo.
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Where else would it be? I can't say that I've ever seen a TB mounted pre turbo.
Every forced induction car I have had has the throttle body mounted pre compression. Just too many issues that dont make sense would occur if that really was the HVC link.
1. Being post compression means the throttle body would need to hold 16+ lbs of boost. That seems like an awful lot of unneeded stress on the parts.
2. In addition to the boost, the throttle body would experience all the heat with that compressed air. With an electronic throttle body, heat would only work to shorten the life span.
3. The HVC system cant work post boost. The HVC is used to vent excess piston blowby back into the air intake using vacuum. If its post boost, that means it would be pushing air in the reverse direction it needs to be pushed in and not working as intended. The excessive pressure pushed back into the engine would literally cause the dipstick to fly out and all the oil in the engine to go with it. This was a major problem on the Cobalt SS/SC, not that the HVC was post boost, but that excessive piston blow by caused this to happen a lot.
You have to have the wrong connection.
1. Being post compression means the throttle body would need to hold 16+ lbs of boost. That seems like an awful lot of unneeded stress on the parts.
2. In addition to the boost, the throttle body would experience all the heat with that compressed air. With an electronic throttle body, heat would only work to shorten the life span.
3. The HVC system cant work post boost. The HVC is used to vent excess piston blowby back into the air intake using vacuum. If its post boost, that means it would be pushing air in the reverse direction it needs to be pushed in and not working as intended. The excessive pressure pushed back into the engine would literally cause the dipstick to fly out and all the oil in the engine to go with it. This was a major problem on the Cobalt SS/SC, not that the HVC was post boost, but that excessive piston blow by caused this to happen a lot.
You have to have the wrong connection.
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