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Discussion Starter #1
With the new oils out now for GTDI engines, curious what oil everyone is using with the idea to not leave the carbon build up on the valves.
 

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Can of worms aside 馃槈 I pay the arm and leg necessary to keep Amsoil SS in my Sport but there are other much more economical choices that seem damn near as good. I remember the Fordtechmakeuloco guy recommended Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the GDI/Ecoboost engines.

$80 Amsoil SS + $20 Amsoil Filter
-vs-
$48 Pennzoil + $15 K&N Filter.


K&N Premium Oil Filter: Designed to Protect your Engine: Fits Select FORD/LINCOLN Vehicle Models (See Product Description for Full List of Compatible Vehicles), PS-7037 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LAXYY02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j9EVEbMMTBSHW

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (1 Quart, Case of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMCCGDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S5EVEbNAWC2A7
 

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Mobil 1 for me. Fully synthetics tend to leave less deposits as they are less volatile. The fuel you use is also important in keeping the deposits down. Make sure you are using a top tier fuel. Catch cans help, also.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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this is why I am asking....
I have heard of one other brand that says for GDI engines, but was just at Meijer, and now they have one from valvoline.

Hi BD. If you are worried about valve deposits, then fill with a major brand, full synthetic, which "meets and/or exceeds" the oil specification listed in your Owners Manual, such as Mobil 1. A full synthetic is the best oil to use to minimize deposits.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi BD. If you are worried about valve deposits, then fill with a major brand, full synthetic, which "meets and/or exceeds" the oil specification listed in your Owners Manual, such as Mobil 1. A full synthetic is the best oil to use to minimize deposits.

Good luck.
So, are you saying that the new special oil is just rebranded Full Synthetic? I plan to have my oil changed tomorrow, and was going to just let the dealer put in the Full Synthetic Motorcraft, but curious if these new oils that literally say, on the bottle, to reduce deposits on valvs on GTDI engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can of worms aside 馃槈 I pay the arm and leg necessary to keep Amsoil SS in my Sport but there are other much more economical choices that seem damn near as good. I remember the Fordtechmakeuloco guy recommended Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the GDI/Ecoboost engines.

$80 Amsoil SS + $20 Amsoil Filter
-vs-
$48 Pennzoil + $15 K&N Filter.


K&N Premium Oil Filter: Designed to Protect your Engine: Fits Select FORD/LINCOLN Vehicle Models (See Product Description for Full List of Compatible Vehicles), PS-7037 Amazon.com: K&N Premium Oil Filter: Designed to Protect your Engine: Fits Select FORD/LINCOLN Vehicle Models (See Product Description for Full List of Compatible Vehicles), PS-7037: Automotive

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (1 Quart, Case of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMCCGDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S5EVEbNAWC2A7

Looking into that Pennzoil, it was made for "modern turbocharged engines". So I would guess the Valvoline oil I saw locally is pretty close to the same thing (slightly better or worse).

And yes... I looked up the AMS Oil too. Same thing. DI/Turbo engines. Again, I am guessing the Valvoline oil is pretty much the same thing as these.

Now saying that, I am not trying to give you guys the impression I am going to buy the Valvoline version. I still don't know what I am going to do... Still looking...

Thanks for the feedback.
 

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So, are you saying that the new special oil is just rebranded Full Synthetic? I plan to have my oil changed tomorrow, and was going to just let the dealer put in the Full Synthetic Motorcraft, but curious if these new oils that literally say, on the bottle, to reduce deposits on valvs on GTDI engines.
Hi BlueDust. Well not exactly. I simply said what I said. ;)

However, to now answer your, is "...the new special oil is just rebranded Full Synthetic?" question: The answer is probably yes. The official SAE oil specification which is listed in smaller print on the back of the bottle is all that matters. The rest, like "to reduce deposits on valves on GTDI engines" etc, is all marketing jargon.and means nothing. Just a written commercial.

Ignore the marketing stuff. All you need to worry about is finding the specification listed in your Owners Manual (in the Maintenance and Specification section). Then find an oil that lists "Meets and/or exceeds" that oil specification.

EDIT - Okay, nevermind that. I went and downloaded the 2019 Fusion Owners Manual and looked it up for you. You need a 5W-30 oil meeting and/or exceeding the
"WSS-M2C946-B1" specification. All the other "Helps lower engine deposits", "Helps your engine last longer", "Assists in curing Covid19" stuff in the ads or on the bottle is simple marketing.

Now, this part is my personal opinion, which some will agree with and some will disagree with. And I respect their right to disagree: If you are getting a good price on the Motorcraft full synthetic oil change at the dealership, take it. If using another full synthetic will make you feel better, use it. Again, all that matters is that the oil you use "meets and/or exceeds" that 5W-30 "WSS-M2C946-B1" oil specification listed in your Owners Manual.

Hope this information helps and good luck.

EDIT - I originally misquoted the 2.7L oil specification listed in the Owners Manual. Have corrected it in this post to avoid confusion. More information is in posts below.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi BlueDust. Well not exactly. I simply said what I said. ;)

However, to answer that particular question: The answer is probably yes. The official SAE oil specification which is listed in smaller print on the back of the bottle is all that matters. The rest, like "to reduce deposits on valves on GTDI engines" etc, is all marketing jargon.and means nothing. Jut a written commercial.

Ignore the marketing stuff. All you need to worry about is finding the specification listed in your Owners Manual (in the Maintenance and Specification section). Then find an oil that lists "Meets and/or exceeds" that oil specification.

EDIT - Okay, nevermind that. I went and downloaded the 2019 Fusion Owners Manual and looked it up for you. You need a 5W-20 oil meeting and/or exceeding the
"WSS-M2C945-B1" specification. All the other "Helps lower engine deposits", "Helps your engine last longer", "Assists in curing Covid19" stuff in the ads or on the bottle is simple marketing.

Hope this information helps and good luck.
I am expecting some nonsense in Marketing, but have not been able to find testing of Motorcraft oil to compare...

Not trying to call you out, so please don't take it that way... but for 2.7l EcoB; My manual says to use 5w-30 and spec WSS-M2C946-B1.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Following up to that, it also says to use premium synthetic blend.... Doesn't say full synthetic. Could that just be in the class of keeping regular maintenance costs (of ownership) down?
 

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I am expecting some nonsense in Marketing, but have not been able to find testing of Motorcraft oil to compare...

Not trying to call you out, so please don't take it that way... but for 2.7l EcoB; My manual says to use 5w-30 and spec WSS-M2C946-B1.
Hi BD. I don't take that as "calling me out", you are simply asking a question. ;)

So I went back and re-downloaded the 2019 Fusion Owners Manual, and you are correct. I mistakenly gave you the oil specification for the 2.5L engine.

The correct oil specification for the 2.7L EcoBoost engine in the Fusion Sport (and 2.0L EcoBoost in other Fusion models) is a 5W-30 which meets and/or exceeds the "WSS-M2C946-B1" specification.

As far as finding testing to compare the Motorcraft oil: All major brand full synthetics that meet the above specification are going to serve you well. There is no magic in any oils.

Just an added word of advice, and please take this exactly as I mean it, as helpful advice: There is no need to overthink this oil equation. At this point in time, any major brand full synthetic oil will get you the same results. There is no magic oil. Anything else said is just marketing.

Hey, if nothing else, you read the Owners Manual and caught my mistake! Good luck! :giggle:
 

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Following up to that, it also says to use premium synthetic blend.... Doesn't say full synthetic. Could that just be in the class of keeping regular maintenance costs (of ownership) down?
Hi BD. Sorry, you posted this question as I was posting my other reply. They simply list a "synthetic blend" because the factory fill is Motorcraft synthetic blend and a full synthetic is not required. All you need to worry about is the 5W-30 "WSS-M2C946-B1" specification. And essentially any major manufacturers synthetic blend and full synthetic motor oils will meet that specification.

However, do not take my word for it. Always read the specs listed on the bottle/jug. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi BD. I don't take that as "calling me out", you are simply asking a question. ;)

So I went back and re-downloaded the 2019 Fusion Owners Manual, and you are correct. I mistakenly gave you the oil specification for the 2.5L engine.

The correct oil specification for the 2.7L EcoBoost engine in the Fusion Sport (and 2.0L EcoBoost in other Fusion models) is a 5W-30 which meets and/or exceeds the "WSS-M2C946-B1" specification.

As far as finding testing to compare the Motorcraft oil: All major brand full synthetics that meet the above specification are going to serve you well. There is no magic in any oils.

Just an added word of advice, and please take this exactly as I mean it, as helpful advice: There is no need to overthink this oil equation. At least iat this point in time, any major brand full synthetic oil will get you the same results. There is not magic. Anything else said is just marketing.

Hey, if nothing else, you to read the Owners Manual. Good luck! :giggle:
Yeah... I read the owners manual.... I read a portion of it before I picked up my first Fusion 6 years ago. But I generally read parts of the manual on purchases I am excited about. Or at least want to sound somewhat intelligent when asking questions regarding topics I know nothing about. (This is my 3rd Fusion).

When looking up reviews, like the video shared in a previous comment... That's the sort of thing I am looking for. But specifically the wear portion of the test.... I plan on keeping this car and want to use better oil. I currently expect to use Motorcraft full synthetic this time, but want to leave the option open to change it up and pick up better oil on my way to the dealership if I so choose to do so (and can find specific oil on my way there).
 

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Yeah... I read the owners manual.... I read a portion of it before I picked up my first Fusion 6 years ago. But I generally read parts of the manual on purchases I am excited about. Or at least want to sound somewhat intelligent when asking questions regarding topics I know nothing about. (This is my 3rd Fusion).

When looking up reviews, like the video shared in a previous comment... That's the sort of thing I am looking for. But specifically the wear portion of the test.... I plan on keeping this car and want to use better oil. I currently expect to use Motorcraft full synthetic this time, but want to leave the option open to change it up and pick up better oil on my way to the dealership if I so choose to do so (and can find specific oil on my way there).
HI BD. Yes, I understand completely. I take care of my cars too, keeping them for long periods of time, and keeping them in mint condition. Well, as close to mint condition as you can on non-garaged, parked on my driveway cars.

If nothing else, hopefully this thread will help other members learn to always research information (and check their Owners Manuals) for themselves and not just take the word of Internet strangers (like me). No matter how well intentioned, we all can make mistakes. Like I did above, when I misquoted the Owners Manual oil specification for the 2.7L engine.

Now beginning my "Dangers of the Internet", personal rant ;): This is why I always tell people to do the research themselves when they can, instead of only asking anonymous strangers. In my case, it was an honest mistake. But there are many all over the Internet who find a strange satisfaction in giving intentional misinformation. So always double check anything we are told. Okay...Dangers of the Internet, personal rant now over. ;)

Good luck.
 

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I have just been using Motorcraft full-synthetic 5W30. I do an oil analysis after every 5k mile change, and all has been fine. Viscosity has consistently been towards the lower end of 5W30 (but still within spec), but the wear levels are still well within range of every other oil I've seen reports for on the 2.7EB. Plus it's known this current spec of Motorcraft oils help with LSPI - I worry about that more than valve deposits.

In short, just a name-brand and quality oil that lists Ford's WSS-M2C946-B1 spec. And if you are worried about valve deposits, use a full-synthetic oil that meets that spec. Otherwise, the arguments over engine oil are never-ending.
 

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BD, like you, I am on my 4th Fusion. I have used Mobil 1 in all 4 with no engine problems. I perform my an oil change and 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. This is my preference. I agree with everything the other two folks have said, that if you use a quality full synthetic you can't go wrong. Just remember to keep in mind about the top tier gas. If you are going to use top quality oil, don't skimp on the fuel.
 

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BD, like you, I am on my 4th Fusion. I have used Mobil 1 in all 4 with no engine problems. I perform my an oil change and 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. This is my preference. I agree with everything the other two folks have said, that if you use a quality full synthetic you can't go wrong. Just remember to keep in mind about the top tier gas. If you are going to use top quality oil, don't skimp on the fuel.
Yeah.... Did the oil change using the Motorcraft full syn. My thought is if it causes slightly more wear in the next 5k miles, so be it but may change it up next time (but from what I understand, it's not the oil, it's the consistency of brand/oil used that matters most in regards to wear) and may just stick with it. I bought the car new with 205 miles, but had to drive 270 miles to get it home. (1350 miles on it now) I put a half tank of regular in because it cost $8 to fill the tank and it made me remember what it costs when I was 17 again (it was ~80/90垄 gal when I started driving in 1999/2000). I have been using premium gas since. But higher octane is just higher resistance to knock (not worried in this car) and I think Costco has the same additives in both regular and higher octane (but I don't know why I think this??? May have miss interpreted a review on the gas I watched year ago + mad up **** in my head months after the video went vague in my head). Doesn't matter. Car can get higher Torque on 93 as it can better control the ignition of the fuel. And maybe a bit better mpg, but if mpg bothered me that much wrong car. My last Fusion was an 2017 Energi and was getting 47 mpg on average and could get between 500 and 700 mile range on 14 gal of cheap gas depending if I needed the heat/ac/ nothing. I actually got into the habit of measuring cost of gas or electricity to get to a destination. And now it sucks to do that. I am trying to get out of the habit. I also used to have a 2014 2.0 EcoBoost Fusion.
Wow that conversation took a turn. In the end, I will be buying premium going forward. I will continue to look into the oil stuff over the next few months... So I have time. I just plan on keeping this car for as long as I can so need to start doing right by it now.
Thanks for the feedback!
 

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Yeah.... Did the oil change using the Motorcraft full syn. My thought is if it causes slightly more wear in the next 5k miles, so be it but may change it up next time (but from what I understand, it's not the oil, it's the consistency of brand/oil used that matters most in regards to wear) and may just stick with it. I bought the car new with 205 miles, but had to drive 270 miles to get it home. (1350 miles on it now) I put a half tank of regular in because it cost $8 to fill the tank and it made me remember what it costs when I was 17 again (it was ~80/90垄 gal when I started driving in 1999/2000). I have been using premium gas since. But higher octane is just higher resistance to knock (not worried in this car) and I think Costco has the same additives in both regular and higher octane (but I don't know why I think this??? May have miss interpreted a review on the gas I watched year ago + mad up **** in my head months after the video went vague in my head). Doesn't matter. Car can get higher Torque on 93 as it can better control the ignition of the fuel. And maybe a bit better mpg, but if mpg bothered me that much wrong car. My last Fusion was an 2017 Energi and was getting 47 mpg on average and could get between 500 and 700 mile range on 14 gal of cheap gas depending if I needed the heat/ac/ nothing. I actually got into the habit of measuring cost of gas or electricity to get to a destination. And now it sucks to do that. I am trying to get out of the habit. I also used to have a 2014 2.0 EcoBoost Fusion.
Wow that conversation took a turn. In the end, I will be buying premium going forward. I will continue to look into the oil stuff over the next few months... So I have time. I just plan on keeping this car for as long as I can so need to start doing right by it now.
Thanks for the feedback!

Hi BD. Don't worry, The Motorcraft full synthetic will not lead to any more wear in the next 5,000 miles.

Just concerning what you were stating and what you heard about premium fuel etc.: What you think you heard is correct. Apples to apples, most major manufacturers put the same detergent/cleaning/stabilization additive packages in their regular, mid-grade and premium fuels. The only difference between the grades is the octane additives.

So if you buy Shell, the same additives will be in their regular, mid-grade and premium. If you buy Exxon, the same thing for their fuel grades. Costco, BP etc, all the same additives throughout their fuel grades. Now that being said, the additive packages can/will vary between those different manufacturers.
Keep in mind that all of this is thrown out the window when you move away from the major manufacturers and are buying fuel at your local mini-mart. There may be cost cutting on the additive packages in the regular fuels at those discount suppliers.

Also, octane has no bearing on fuel mileage. While some owners will swear they get better mileage with premium, and others will swear they get better mileage with regular, any expert source will tell you that octane only influences volatility and knock resistance, not fuel mileage. So if you want the slightly better power, use premium. If you want to save money, use regular. However, premium fuels will not give you better mileage.

Good luck with whichever you choose.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi BD. Don't worry, The Motorcraft full synthetic will not lead to any more wear in the next 5,000 miles.

Just concerning what you were stating and what you heard about premium fuel etc.: What you think you heard is correct. Apples to apples, most major manufacturers put the same detergent/cleaning/stabilization additive packages in their regular, mid-grade and premium fuels. The only difference between the grades is the octane additives.

So if you buy Shell, the same additives will be in their regular, mid-grade and premium. If you buy Exxon, the same thing for their fuels grades. Costco, BP etc, all the same additivesthroughout their fuel grades. Now that being said, the additive packages can/will vary between those different manufacturers.

Also, octane has no bearing on fuel mileage. While some owners will swear they get better mileage with premium, and others will swear they get better mileage with regular, any expert source will tell you that octane only influences volatility and knock resistance, not fuel mileage. So if you want the slightly better power, use premium. If you want to save money, use regular.

Good luck with whichever you choose.
I agree with you regarding the next 5k miles. That's why I still did bought it. I wasn't able to get enough information, and even if I did, wasn't able to purchase the oil in such short amount of time. I just wish (not really... I don't think it matters enough to wish) I knew about the, for lack of better words, modern oil for cars 2012 and newer so I could have had time to do more reading before now.

Regarding MPG using regular/premium gas...
My thoughts are that if you can get more power, you "may" get slightly better mpg because its easier for the car to move over the same physical distance. Not sure if it would be enough to actually measure as I have never done any actual comparisons/testing, and do not ever plan on doing so... but just my expectation. I do agree with you as the gas, whatever the octane has the same amount of energy in it. The rest, I assume is all in my head.
 
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