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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey... so my battery was dead and needed a jump start... after getting the car running, I had no radio and no GPS... the radio show "audio off" and I cannot push the power button, no audible sounds when using the touch screen and my GPS just stays in one place. I did a master restart and held the forward track and power button down to reboot the radio and nothing. anyone have any ideas what is going on with my car.
 

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hey... so my battery was dead and needed a jump start... after getting the car running, I had no radio and no GPS... the radio show "audio off" and I cannot push the power button, no audible sounds when using the touch screen and my GPS just stays in one place. I did a master restart and held the forward track and power button down to reboot the radio and nothing. anyone have any ideas what is going on with my car.
Judging from other experiences on the forum, the remedy is to disconnect positive terminal for roughly 10 minutes, then reconnect This will get the rest of the juices out of the system.

More importantly, you should obviously take your car in and call ford corporate about the dead battery situation.

Good luck!
 

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Judging from other experiences on the forum, the remedy is to disconnect positive terminal for roughly 10 minutes, then reconnect This will get the rest of the juices out of the system.

More importantly, you should obviously take your car in and call ford corporate about the dead battery situation.

Good luck!
Needs a full reset. Pull the positive battery cable for at least 5 minutes. That is the only way to truly reboot the system.

FYI... You should always pull the negative side first. Pulling the positive side first can be really bad if you accidentally touch something.

Battery and Negative Terminal - How to Disconnect a Battery
 

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FYI... You should always pull the negative side first. Pulling the positive side first can be really bad if you accidentally touch something.

Battery and Negative Terminal - How to Disconnect a Battery
I have posted the negative disconnect at least four times now.
Others keep saying 5-10 minutes with positive disconnected.

This seems like a 101 topic but I never had a spark or power surge caused by disconnecting the negative ground first.
Same principles when jumping the car.

There are some highly knowledgeable people on this forum that keep saying "disconnect positive".
I humbly disagree and am concerned that their incorrect information may cause damage or in the worst case scenario...
Injury.
 
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FYI... You should always pull the negative side first. Pulling the positive side first can be really bad if you accidentally touch something.

Battery and Negative Terminal - How to Disconnect a Battery
I have posted the negative disconnect at least four times now.
Others keep saying 5-10 minutes with positive disconnected.

This seems like a 101 topic but I never had a spark or power surge caused by disconnecting the negative ground first.
Same principles when jumping the car.

There are some highly knowledgeable people on this forum that keep saying "disconnect positive".
I humbly disagree and am concerned that their incorrect information may cause damage or in the worst case scenario...
Injury.
Does make sense. Unfortunately I do not have a FuSport yet, but I've heard a lot of complaints about the difficulty level in disconnecting the negative terminal. Is it more work to do than other cars?
 

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Does make sense. Unfortunately I do not have a FuSport yet, but I've heard a lot of complaints about the difficulty level in disconnecting the negative terminal. Is it more work to do than other cars?
Unfortunately it is. It's in a tight space in the very back of the engine bay.
 

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Unfortunately it is. It's in a tight space in the very back of the engine bay.
I have only seen my car the from shop door for some time now.
Does the negative cable not connect to right shock tower?

I remember boosting from that location.

That should be easy to disconnect.
 

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I have only seen my car the from shop door for some time now.
Does the negative cable not connect to right shock tower?

I remember boosting from that location.

That should be easy to disconnect.
Unfortunately just by removing the shock tower cable does not disable the entire system as there is another ground branching to another location...
 

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Unfortunately just by removing the shock tower cable does not disable the entire system as there is another ground branching to another location...
Ok, Thanks.
My memory is kind of like my battery these days.
 

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Unfortunately it is. It's in a tight space in the very back of the engine bay.
Holy crap, they couldn't have made that any harder to get to. Thanks for the shot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well pulling the battery for a few minutes worked.. I was worried that i fried a fuse or the radio but what ever the issue was, it worked with the reboot. Thanks guys.
 

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My Wife has a 2017 Ford Fusion that exhibits a very similar problem. Both "Audio Off" and "No GPS" display on her model. I pulled apart the head unit and the circuits seem fine, with no obvious blown fuses or bridged/broken traces. The issue could be related to the GPS chip or another chip down the line on the board, but I don't know quite where to start without the board's schematics or more information. Also, I would need to find a cheep source of broken boards with known good chips to replace them anyway. I have also pulled the fuses and unplugged the battery to no avail. The dealer has suggested replacing the entire head unit, but I feel like that will be extra costly and wasteful given the silicon shortage, not to mention we cannot get an appointment with the dealer to do this for another six months. I was wondering if anyone had a better idea of where to look to troubleshoot, or if I should shop for a used OEM computer module.
 

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My Wife has a 2017 Ford Fusion that exhibits a very similar problem. Both "Audio Off" and "No GPS" display on her model. I pulled apart the head unit and the circuits seem fine, with no obvious blown fuses or bridged/broken traces. The issue could be related to the GPS chip or another chip down the line on the board, but I don't know quite where to start without the board's schematics or more information. Also, I would need to find a cheep source of broken boards with known good chips to replace them anyway. I have also pulled the fuses and unplugged the battery to no avail. The dealer has suggested replacing the entire head unit, but I feel like that will be extra costly and wasteful given the silicon shortage, not to mention we cannot get an appointment with the dealer to do this for another six months. I was wondering if anyone had a better idea of where to look to troubleshoot, or if I should shop for a used OEM computer module.
Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.
 

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I will try it again, but we’ve done that a few times for stretches of at least 15 minutes with no change. Do we know exactly what needs to be cleared? I’ve pulled the head unit out, is there something else I could disconnect from power to clear it?

Correction: I pulled the APIM, Display, Radio/CD Drive, and the front plate on her 8" Sync 3, with no change. I incorrectly described those components as the "head unit".
 

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I will try it again, but we’ve done that a few times for stretches of at least 15 minutes with no change. Do we know exactly what needs to be cleared? I’ve pulled the head unit out, is there something else I could disconnect from power to clear it?
Hi ulmentflam. Just a blind Internet diagnosis here: At this point, with the information you provided, it would seem this is more likely a case of a failed component, as opposed to something that can be "cleared" by battery disconnects etc. Especially since this is also affecting the GPS system.

Unfortunately, I don't know where to tell you to start as far as diagnostics. Perhaps one of our more audiophile techies will jump in with some suggestions.

Keep us updated and good luck.
 
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My Wife has a 2017 Ford Fusion that exhibits a very similar problem. Both "Audio Off" and "No GPS" display on her model. I pulled apart the head unit and the circuits seem fine, with no obvious blown fuses or bridged/broken traces. The issue could be related to the GPS chip or another chip down the line on the board, but I don't know quite where to start without the board's schematics or more information. Also, I would need to find a cheep source of broken boards with known good chips to replace them anyway. I have also pulled the fuses and unplugged the battery to no avail. The dealer has suggested replacing the entire head unit, but I feel like that will be extra costly and wasteful given the silicon shortage, not to mention we cannot get an appointment with the dealer to do this for another six months. I was wondering if anyone had a better idea of where to look to troubleshoot, or if I should shop for a used OEM computer module.
What center interface do you have? The 4" and 8" systems are completely different. Even still, what exactly are you pulling out and checking? There is no single 'head unit' in either style system, and GPS is completely separate from any audio equipment. What DTCs are you getting if you use a proper scan tool that supports Ford vehicles?

Personally, I wouldn't focus on replacing anything on the boards inside anything, you'll never be able to find any schematics for a Ford module as they're obviously all proprietary, and if you get a donor module that you'll be sacrificing you may as well just install that one untouched.
 

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What center interface do you have? The 4" and 8" systems are completely different. Even still, what exactly are you pulling out and checking? There is no single 'head unit' in either style system, and GPS is completely separate from any audio equipment. What DTCs are you getting if you use a proper scan tool that supports Ford vehicles?

Personally, I wouldn't focus on replacing anything on the boards inside anything, you'll never be able to find any schematics for a Ford module as they're obviously all proprietary, and if you get a donor module that you'll be sacrificing you may as well just install that one untouched.
She has the 8” model. I’ve ordered a OBD connector coming in the mail to run FORScan to check the DTCs and look at the ACM. I pulled out the APIM compute module connected directly to the display, as well as the radio/CD module. I checked both those boards for any obvious shorts or problems, broken capacitors, or blown fuses. Anything I could potentially fix without a donor module, but I didn’t see anything obvious. It definitely seems like a failure at some point in the CAN bus, but I would like to troubleshoot the exact component before I order a new one.
 
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