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Hi I just bought some subs and an amp I’d like to put in my trunk, can anyone point the way to a good box for the 2017 fusion sport? I’ve behn searching with no luck also anyone know if there’s any videos to help with installing it ? I have the 401a package
 

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I don't know of any Fusion "custom" sub boxes especially not knowing what kind of subs you have. . Personally, I would be more concerned with the internal cubic feet.
The subs you bought have a specific volume that is optimized for performance. I like sealed boxes for two reasons, SQ, smaller size, and much easier to build. Of course if you are going for "loud' you would be better off with a ported box. Even louder with a practically one note bandpass box (these are huge, obviously not a fan).

Out of curiosity, what kind of subs & amplifier did you go with? This will really help to answer your questions. The vast majority of the time 2 ohms is optimal for sub impedance/ohms. Hopefully the two subs you got are 4 ohms that can be wired in parallel to achieve 2 ohms.
Have you considered building your own custom sub box?

Good luck in either case. Feel free to pm me any questions you might have. I have been doing car stereo for a long time.
 

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I don't know of any Fusion "custom" sub boxes especially not knowing what kind of subs you have. . Personally, I would be more concerned with the internal cubic feet.
The subs you bought have a specific volume that is optimized for performance. I like sealed boxes for two reasons, SQ, smaller size, and much easier to build. Of course if you are going for "loud' you would be better off with a ported box. Even louder with a practically one note bandpass box (these are huge, obviously not a fan).

Out of curiosity, what kind of subs & amplifier did you go with? This will really help to answer your questions. The vast majority of the time 2 ohms is optimal for sub impedance/ohms. Hopefully the two subs you got are 4 ohms that can be wired in parallel to achieve 2 ohms.
Have you considered building your own custom sub box?

Good luck in either case. Feel free to pm me any questions you might have. I have been doing car stereo for a long time.
I got 2 300 watt kicker 12 inch subs and a 250 wat kicker amp I’m new to all this but I got it all brand new for 32$ on clearance at my local Walmart
 

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Sorry I should have mentioned this. Please send the model numbers because Specs vary a lot across brands for both the amp and woofers. Since you have minimal experience, find a very good shop to install the amp for you. Figure on about $120 labor and $80 in parts including amp wiring kit. You will also need an amp high to low converter, and other misc items. So about $200 installed.

You don't want just anybody doing the install because you want to come out of this without them messing up your interior with new noises and visually compromised.

You got a great deal but if I were you I would not mess around with a cheap amp or woofers considering the labor cost and your new baby. I will look at the model numbers if you produce them and maybe other members can chime in on if they are worth installing.

Your subs will be in the trunk so you need pretty good output.
 

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First the good news. You got a great deal!
Now the bad news. The amp can only be bridged to 4 ohms. Since your subs are 4 ohms each--in parallel they would yield 2 ohms which means the amp can only be figured in "2 channel" mode.

That amp only puts out 30 watts rms per channel in 2 channel mode. You should get an amp that puts out at least 300 watts into 2 ohms.

As far as the subs go the optimum sealed volume is 1.25 cubic feet. That is a popular size that you can get just about anywhere. You'll need two boxes or a dual box. You should be able to get a dual box for about $60 at Bestbuy. Here is a link...

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Damm so I can’t use the amp at all ? I don’t need competition sound just look for more bass then what comes in the 401a package, And the idea of doing that is great at just over 100$ for equipment. My 2011 Ford Fusion sport sounded fantastic :( with the stock unit
 

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Unfortunately, for sure, that amplifier will not be worth installing at all.

If you are going to spend money to have these installed, it would not be worth it.

Check your local Craigslist or Offerup to find a good deal on an appropriate amplifier.
Personally, I would not bother with that amp. Sell it and use the money towards a new amp.
 

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Yes it will. Far better than the other amplifier. It is rated at 2 X 750 watts Peak into 4 ohms (2 channels).
This means basically you divide the peak by 2 to get to actual rms watts which equals about 375 watts per channel. More than adequate.

On the "custom box" above, be sure to call them to ask about the internal cubic feet (very important).
Thanks Seoden 88. But just know you can get one at Bestbuy for about $60.

Like I said you're going to need an additional $200 for the install including parts. Insist on 4 gauge copper wiring.
 

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Just wanted give you some feedback on my sub amp install.
I was hurting for time so I had a reputable shop install mine today. When I arrived at the shop I immediately knew something was wrong.

There was a low frequency buzz and it did not sound right. I used the fader to discover they wired the sub amp to the front speakers. "I'm like you guys know this car has active noise cancelling and fake engine noise"??? (not to mention the lower frequencies are cut off on the front speakers to protect them)

They were not happy but I demanded they re-wire it to the rear subs. Night and day difference. Sounds great.

The moral to the story, be sure to wire the input of your sub amp to the output of the Fusions sub amp.

This by far even before replacing your front speakers yield the best sound improvement to your car. I am not a "let's get loud bass freak". Just wanted the frequencies to be extended as close as I could get to the 20Hz range to enjoy my jazz.
 

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So basically tap the stock subs.
Yep. We know that. But unexpectedly, a unnamed car stereo shop did not know that.

I might add they parked the car (I was at work) under a tree that was shedding small flowered leaves big time with the sunroof open. My seats were saturated with leaves.

"Common sense is not common"
 

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So it can't be pre amp signal for full range of frequency as appose to output of stock amp where the frequency's have been cut?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I really kinda wanted to do this myself but it’s looking like I should prob bring it to a shop
 

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No. That is not necessarily. The bass does not roll off at all. I do have a "LC2" installed just in case, but I have accubass turned all the way down, and the associated sensitivity dial turned all the way up.

This means the "LC2" is only being used as a high to low converter. If the bass was being reduced at high volumes, the LC2 could be used to counter that effect.

The older Bose systems in particular were notorious for that (rolling off the bass).
 
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