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My system cost over $1300 all-in, two days without the car, and months previously spent searching for a shop that was a) willing to do a full custom job and tweak it for me, and b) actually had the skills and professionalism to do it right. I found four shops within 50 miles of home or work. One just said they were too busy with full-on street rod/custom work to take on an exhaust job. Another was not willing to do anything besides make a copy of the stock setup, didn’t want to reuse my MagnaFlow, and got dodgy when I asked about “fine-tuning” afterward. Two others were clearly just young guys with welders, a lift, and a pipe bender. I finally found a speed shop not even ten minutes from the office by happenstance. Struck up a conversation at a gas station with a guy in a absolutely incredible custom 70’s Chevy pickup truck, and he tells me about the shop that did the work. After that it was a great experience with real pros.
 

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In my own testing on other platforms, the stock exhaust is usually NOT a restriction. The catalytic converters are a restriction though, worth about 3-4 lb/min of air mass flow on a Naturally Aspirated application. I have heard mixed results with EcoBoost but the SHOs running in the 11s about 5 years ago were all running meth and catless downpipes. I eventually went back to the stock cats on that platform because I couldn't stand the smell. My Ducati came from the dealer with Termignoni race pipes (no cats) and I am seriously contemplating going back to the stock cats that are in a box I demanded from the dealer the day I picked up the bike.

The big suitcase muffler on our Fusion is still what I feel is something of an aerodynamics design as well as noise attenuation. It smooths out the airflow under the rear tail area.
 

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I have been unable to find any dyno info for the exhaust and I see the 30 pound weight savings , my question is why is this system not more popular there are only 2 companies that make exhaust for the FFS
Probably because the Borla, and Magnaflow retain the stock 2.25" diameter which is extremely restrictive and won't allow the car to breathe any better to make more horsepower, the MRT does go to 2.5" so it will help a bit but you still have the restriction upstream with the stock resonator and convertors. The weight savings are beneficial, allows you to use the power you have more efficiently, but you can obtain that from simply cutting off the boat sized rear muffler and replacing it with smaller, lighter individual mufflers. To be able to make power the car needs to breathe, remove unnecessary back pressure. To obtain this you need to go to a true dual 2.5" exhaust or a single 3" exhaust that exits into 2.5" or 3" tips. None of these companies are doing this and are charging, IMHO, way too much money for what you are getting and seeing performance wise.
 

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Considering you are easily maxing out the stock 2.7 turbos with just a tune, the exhaust doesn't seem like a restriction even with the stock pipe diameters. Keep in mind the 2.7 has puny turbos. These things are flowing 20 #/min to 22 #/min max each. That's barely more air mass flow over the stock SHO with stock factory tune, and those GT1549 turbos are very puny as well.

With the MKZ/Conti and Explorer ST's 3.0L turbos that flow 55-60 #/min max, I could see some benefit from going to a less restictive exhaust. Maybe.

I am more impressed with the Ranger's stock 2.3L, I thought it would be the same turbo as the Mustang, Explorer, etc... but it's actually a very sizable turbo. Should flow 40+ #/min max, for a single turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Now that I have HP tuners I can log air mass flowed and see if there is any change after installing the MRT pipes
 
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2.25 is more than enough for a 2.7, even the 3.0. Were talking 164 and 180 ci engines here, now split those numbers in half. That extra 1/4 inch won't really show any gains, the gain are made up front front with the down pipes. The cats are a good place to start, Magna flow cats are known to flow a lot better over the stock ones.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Got the MRT exhaust in the mail yesterday , first impression it looks nice clean welds but dislike the U-clamps some stainless band clamps would look cleaner
 

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Got the MRT exhaust in the mail yesterday , first impression it looks nice clean welds but dislike the U-clamps some stainless band clamps would look cleaner
Funny you mentioned that...mine came with band clamps like you see in this pic...both were 2.25in clamps & no matter how tight I went they would not keep the pipe locked, I could pull the pipe right off the stock pipe...so I went to Advanced Auto & bought 2 U-clamps, installed & had no issues after that..

28044
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Good point JROC I will try the long version of the band clamp
 

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Pipe needs to be split at the end so the clamp will tighten it down. I ordered my Borla this morning, suppose to have it by next Thursday or Friday.
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
just checked the pipe end has 2 slits in it
 

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Pipe needs to be split at the end so the clamp will tighten it down. I ordered my Borla this morning, suppose to have it by next Thursday or Friday.
Pretty sure MRT is aware that the pipe needs to be split at the end.....not saying they couldn't make a one off mistake...but they're an exhaust company I'm pretty sure they are aware of that
 

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Pipe is tougher than it looks then, I only use band clamps on any of the exhaust systems I've done. One thing nice, is having lap type for butt connecting two pipes, I had to do that on my 13 in a couple places. Nothing moves either, that just causes issues with it hitting things and making all kinds of racket if it does.
 

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Not necessarily related to the MRT exhaust specifically, but can someone please help explain to me the rave about band clamps? I have NEVER been successful using them. They ALWAYS leak for me. I’ve tightened with a ratchet, used an electric impact, air impact, torque wrench, you name it I’ve used it. I’ve gone back in and retightened after its heated and contracted a few times, and yet they alway continue to leak. Ive only had luck with the good ole saddle clamps. Am I just doing something wrong? Every time I’ve installed/adjusted exhaust on the fusion and other cars I always have them up in the air on my lift and run the back side of hand around the pipe to make sure it’s not leaking. Every band clamp I’ve used has puffed on my hand. Never had puffing when using saddle clamps.
 

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Not necessarily related to the MRT exhaust specifically, but can someone please help explain to me the rave about band clamps? I have NEVER been successful using them. They ALWAYS leak for me. I’ve tightened with a ratchet, used an electric impact, air impact, torque wrench, you name it I’ve used it. I’ve gone back in and retightened after its heated and contracted a few times, and yet they alway continue to leak. Ive only had luck with the good ole saddle clamps. Am I just doing something wrong? Every time I’ve installed/adjusted exhaust on the fusion and other cars I always have them up in the air on my lift and run the back side of hand around the pipe to make sure it’s not leaking. Every band clamp I’ve used has puffed on my hand. Never had puffing when using saddle clamps.
Saddle clamps AKA U clamps are what I ended up using to secure the exhaust as I stated above - the band clamps that came with the exhaust as I pictured above did not work...I've always stuck with U clamps for simple exhaust jobs
 

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I used some higher quality band-clamps for my X-pipe on the Mustang and they held great. The factory even used band clamps for the axle-backs.

The U-clamps are great for distorting pipes, but at least make sure you get all SS U-clamps.
 

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Most all the are using band clamps from the factory, I can't even tell you the last time I saw a old U bolt style exhaust clamp, only thing they were ever good for was smashing the end of the pipe and making it near imposable to get apart. I,ve never had a band clamp not hold once it was tightened down, I would go back and check them after a week or so just to make sure they were tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
My thoughts are if the exhaust looks clean so should the clamps
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
coming soon to a forum near you lol
 
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