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Discussion Starter #1
So I live in Las Vegas and my FFS did not come with the factory oil cooler so my plan is to add the MKZ oil cooler assembly to help with cooling this summer , with new ford parts costing 169 bucks I figure it is cheap insurance , once I have completed the install I will post pics and do a quick write up on the install .
 

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I was thinking about the hose that runs from the oil cooler to the heater core which I think is Motorcraft KM-5490 or HP5Z-8B081-A, and you might be able to just cut/trim the section at the oil cooler area and use metal fittings to get the angle right, versus buying that entire hose assembly (which is 2 hoses nylon strapped together).

BTW I think if you get the oil cooler installed, the JLT oil separator will no longer fit as JLT used that mounting bolt and area for securing their bracket. I don't think this will affect you, but just in case those with JLT separators are thinking of doing this install.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Metro thanks for the help looking up the part numbers..
 
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I may get with our parts guy and see what my cost is on everything. I,ll have to figure out my catch can too, I've got it bolted to the fire wall now back next to the PCM.
 

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It'll be interesting to see how much temp drop the oil cooler provides especially in the Vegas heat.
 

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I can tell you I saw a decent drop with my trucks way back when I drove Chevy's. I had two, a 2000 and a 2002. I replaced the radiators in both with the one that has the cooler in the tank on one end, then ran the lines from the oil pan for it. If all you have to spend is 150 for the cooler and line on a 2.7, I,m not gonna complain. I think back then between the radiator and lines, I had about 350 in the whole upgrade.
 

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I think on the Crown Vic police interceptors they may have routed engine oil to a small cooler that's inline with the lower radiator hose but it was prone to leaks. On my dad's 03 E-250 5.4 V8, the factory engine oil cooler is the same style/design as the ones on the Police Interceptor Sedan/Utility, SHO w/ Perf Pkg, Explorer w/ Tow Package, and the MKZ 3.0 - it's bolted to the engine so only low pressure coolant is routed to the exchanger with the engine oil staying inside the engine.

My Cobalt SS Turbo even has a factory engine oil cooler with its 2.0L GTDI (LNF). Honestly I could never tell a difference with the factory engine oil coolers on any of our vehicles that have them. But it's a great idea though. I'm just not expecting drastic heat rejection.

I feel it is more for heating up the engine oil faster and then regulating the temperature of the engine oil. Same idea as the aux trans cooler on top of our 6F55. It's to help warm up the trans fluid and regulate it. The oil to air trans cooler below the fog light is probably more for heat rejection.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Today is install day I will keep you posted
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok got the cooler installed , rear oil cooler pipe hits the EPP intake pipes need to adjust it for clearance
 

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I only replaced the hose under the coolant bottle to oil cooler see pic
20210410_110701.jpg hoser.jpg
 

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all done time to burp the coolant
20210410_121808.jpg done .jpg
 

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all done time to burp the coolant View attachment 27962
all done time to burp the coolant View attachment 27962
That explains how they make it fit there, the F 150 cooler has the inlet out lets on the other side, so they would hit the PCM and the strut tower. I also see how the hot tube is down back there with the 90* at the inlet. I,m thinking about buying a universal 2 inch inch kit and make my own, I can see it won't be any where as easy as my 13 was with the 2.0 Eco, but it look doable.
 
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Removal process
1-remove battery ground cable
2-unplug and remove ecm 2-10mm nuts and 1 10mm bolt
Remove coolant bottle 1-8mm bolt and 1 hose clamp see pic of hose
Remove oil cooler cover 2-8mm bolts and 2 13mm bolts have a rag handy only a few drops will come out
install new oil cooler 8mm bolts go on the top and 13mm on the bottom then torque to 89 inch pounds this was a pain
At this point I installed the new hose to rear oil cooler tube and give it a slight bend with a pry bar if you have EPP intake pipes it will hit the pipe and not sit flat
Next reattach coolant bottle hose and bolt it down
Fire wall coolant hose goes on the top oil
cooler tube connection
Reinstall the ecm and battery ground
Check all 5 hose connections make sure clamps are in place you will have 1 extra 8mm bolt when you are done dont worry this is not used on new oil cooler
Start engine and add coolant check for leaks and also check oil make sure it is not low
I used hand tools and no cutting or splicing was needed only took 2.5 hours to install also I did not drain the coolant just the coolant bottle as very little came out of the hoses only needed half a gallon of coolant to refill system
 

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I was gonna say pull the ECM, I,m not sure how this will fit with my catch can back there is all. I can move it if need be, I'll just have to make up some longer hoses if it gets moved quite a ways away from were it's at now, but that's not a big deal. I still have plenty of hose left and fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you have the JLT catch can it will not fit with this oil cooler install
 
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I have a home brew one, I bought a couple of those cheap 26 dollar ones off eBay, looked all over hell for the fitting that would thread into them so could use 8AN hose and fittings for my 13. I have two, one for the lower PCV line, and one for the hose the runs from the valve cover to the intake tube. That one never had anything in it, so I pulled it off, and put the stock line back on it. Took it and fabbed up a mounting bracket and put it back there by the ECM. Only issue with it is the size, I think it's a 300ml, so your dumping out more than most do with a bigger container. Like to find a 1000ml, but then were back to where to put it .
 
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