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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I played around with the dash speaker by connecting and disconnecting it while listening to music.

With the dash speaker disconnected, you could really tell the locations of front door speakers which personally I don't like. I like more of a center sound stage without the hole in the middle (personal preference). I feel the factory dash speaker could be a little louder without killing stereo imaging as well.

I think with high quality door speakers the "hole" would not be so pronounced.
This led me to installing an aftermarket high quality speaker. The problem is the efficiency due to being only 4 ohms in impedance made it way too loud.

The factory dash speaker is 8 ohms so I added 3 ohms in series to get just the right amount of center dash sound to please my taste. In my opinion, the sound is more fuller and it is very difficult to detect speaker locations by your ears now. I know there will be those who disagree but I really love it. For those who hate it, all good. For those willing to take a chance I highly recommend it.

Here is a basic schematic. Make sure your resistor is at least 10 watts. I chose a 25 watt resistor.

speaker by Sam Wilson
 

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Personally, I agree it needs the center speaker(s). I'm weird, in a home theater I don't really like a center sound stage, but I absolutely do in the car due to the smaller environment.

I'm working on wiring up a 20-spkr Revel Ultima amp from an MKZ in mine to try to get a little more power, like my '14 Edge with the Sony system has. Nothing crazy, just want to reduce the points where you hear our amp maxing out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Appreciate the feedback. Sounds like an interesting project. I am on the fence with replacing my front components with Infinity's or stay stock.

I am not going to go through the expense of some kinda DSP so I can amplify the speakers, so possibly looking to just throw in the efficient Infinity's in the front.

Any thoughts on that would be appreciated as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The resistor won't generate much heat at all if you get 25 watt ones. So no need to mount it for that purpose.
You can glue it or strong double sided tape it to the underside of the dash.

Here is a link to 5 (4) ohm resistors that will give you tons of resistive opportunities.
Use this calculator plus your ears to get the right value. Resistors in series add, and resistors in parallel reduce.

"Conversion Calculator Parallel and Series Resistor | DigiKey"

Say for instance you needed 6 ohms. Take 1 (4) ohm in series with 2 (4) resistors in parallel. But, it really comes down to your hearing preference. Don't permanently solder it until you hear it first.

The factory speaker is too quiet for my taste and is mediocre in sound. So if you pick up a speaker that is really inefficient, like 86dB, you may not want to add resistance at all.

It comes down to the speaker choice and your preference in terms of the center channel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have this, but it is kinda overkill. I had one left over from another build (you get two of them).
"https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Kap...s=infinity+3.5"+speaker&qid=1591453449&sr=8-3"

This one is a lot cheaper and frankly should work fine. I would get this one.

"https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Ref...s=infinity+3.5"+speaker&qid=1591453599&sr=8-8"

Or if that is too expensive even these should be better than stock.

"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041RSGXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For those of you who are installing an after market amp, there most likely isn't a need to add series resistance to the center channel. You can adjust your amplifier gains of your door speakers to achieve the desired results.

If you are replacing your front component speakers, hold off on adding resistance as well until you see how much louder or softer in volume they are. I recommend if you are not installing an amplifier, getting very efficient speakers so that you don't lose volume.

Something that has at least 90dB sensitivity or better. I am going to install these soon and report back m results.
Specifications
Sensitivity (1W at 1 meter)N/A
Sensitivity at 2.83 volts93
Frequency Response53 - 21k Hz
Minimum RMS Wattage---
Maximum RMS Wattage90
Peak Power Handling (Watts)270
Top-mount Depth (Inches)2 1/16
Bottom-mount Depth (Inches)N/A
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches)5 1/8


"Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6530CX 6-1/2" Component Speaker System: Home Audio & Theater"
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I almost forgot, you'll need a "bass" blocker as well unless you can remove the capacitor off of the old center channel speaker. I personally prefer about 100uF. This value should pass frequencies above 400Hz. The capacitor is in series with the "+" side of your speaker terminal. I hope I am not making this too technical and complicated. PM for questions.

Here is a nice kit.

" Amazon.com: WINGONEER 25 Values 16V 25V 50V 1uF to 2200uF Electrolytic Capacitors Assorted Assortment Kit Set Black - 125PCS: Industrial & Scientific"
 

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Don't know if it's true, but the crutchfield guys told me the infinity reference' tweeter is too tall and won't fit under the front dash. That's why I went for the kappas
 

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I know the infotainment system has the SONY tag on it, but is that the brand of the stock speakers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As promised, I finally got around to running some experiments on improving the sound system without breaking the bank.
Besides the center speaker, the next upgrade I highly recommend is adding Infinity Reference REF-375TX tweeters (very efficient).

These will not only add volume, but a significant improvement in sound quality. The combination of the center dash speaker and these tweeters will blow you away.

The front door 6.5" woofers are pretty decent and tough to improve upon without amplification. To improve upon the 6.5" sound, you would need an aftermarket amplifier and good aftermarket 6.5's which means DSP as well. For sure not cost efficient.

Beyond a good center speaker and tweeters, the next best upgrade is a subwoofer. I personally prefer a high quality 10" sub in a sealed enclosure with a good D class amplifier.

My sub system is a used $275 JL Audio 10W7 with a used $150 JL audio XD 600 watt amp. Extremely clean/linear, thumping bass you can feel if you want to.

Stay safe guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I forgot to add that I used 33uF capacitors in series with the new tweeters and 100uF capacitor in series with the new dash center speaker. Because of the increased efficiency of the front tweeters, I reduced the series resistance to 1.5 ohms on the dash center speaker.

Again, the improvement will blow your mind.
Since you mostly hear the front speakers and me personally preferring a front sound stage, I did not touch the rear speakers.

On my next post, I will show you how to improve the sound of the factory front 6.5's, and minimize/get rid of any rattles from your front doors.

This should be done while you're replacing those tweets. By the way, it is super easy to remove and re-install the front door panels. Just PM me if you need any help.
 

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I replaced all the 6.5s with infinity reference ex. They sound way better. I used 150hz bass blockers. Used 2500 hz bass blockers on the same tweeters as you, used kappa 3.5s in the front in the back with 3 ohm 25 w resistors and 600 hz bass blockers. Had to cut some of the front dash to fit the 3.5 then installed a jbl GTBASSPRO12 for the sub. The sub sounds awesome, but is total overkill compared to the speakers. You just need to turn it down so it's balanced
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Glad you had better luck than I did with the 6.5's. I just could not get nearly as much mid bass so I kept them stock.

Are you saying you used 150Hz bass blockers/ highpass filters for the 6.5's? Personally I think it is on the high side.

We are in the same ballpark on the center speakers. I chose about 400Hz highpass filters.

Pretty much any aftermarket sub will improve the bass so great job!

Thanks for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just saw you added Dynamat or something similar along with hot glueing in the tweeters. Great idea.

Stinger makes these speaker rings/baffle kit. Great stuff to add to enhance the sound of the 6.5's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I wanted to elaborate on the term "mid-bass" since I have worked out already and Covid-19 is amongst us (bored).
This is a quote from an audio expert:

"Mid-bass is simultaneously one of the most impressive showings of a good car stereo system as well as one of the most often mucked up showings of a bad car stereo system. Ever upgraded from stock speakers only to be met with disappointment as you note the supreme loss of mid-bass response? If so, you’re not the only one. Mid-bass is the frequency range that is affected the most if a set of door speakers is not installed properly."

It is very true and very difficult to achieve considering all of the holes in the door and that pesky window. What I am talking about in particular is lower mid-bass frequencies. The lower you can get your front 6.5's, the less "bass in the back" sound you have. This is very important in terms of getting a good front sound stage where the bass almost sounds in front of you.

In a perfect world, your subwoofer would be in front of you. But with no place to put it we are forced to trunk it.
To counter the subwoofer sound in the back, you need your front speakers to play as low as possible in terms of frequencies.
The Sony factory speakers are optimized for our doors and can still achieve pretty good low frequency response despite all of the holes. In my opinion, with an aftermarket amplifier and good aftermarket speakers, you can overcome this difficult task.

I am guessing here, but you chose 150Hz because the speakers did not sound great below 150Hz at higher volumes. The higher the frequency, the easier it is to discern what direction it is coming from. When you have a high 6.5" cutoff frequency, to minimize the "bass in the back sound" you are forced to turn your sub-amp gain down lower.

Here is an illustration of some 6.5"s frequency response. You'll notice they can go pretty low but this is under optimized conditions with a good enclosure.
freq by
By doing this with the factory 6.5's, the lower midbass is very good although not going to be as clean as aftermarket 6.5" lets say above 300Hz. But it is a good tradeoff in my opinion.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jibdaJ]20200703_173136 by
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jibCr4]stinger by
Lower frequencies in the front is and will always be a difficult task if not expensive.
 

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To be honest I just chose those different bass blockers based on crutchfield recommendations but it the bass does feel like it's coming from all around. I also don't blast the bass cause I listen to hard rock and metal. You ever install sync 3.4 on the head unit?
 
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