Ford Fusion V6 Sport Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,
New here, and also a fairly new Sport owner. I owned a new 2016 Fusion 1.5L some time back (and frikin loved it) so not super new to the Fusion realm. Fast forward to this past winter, and I was thankful to score a good deal on a 2017 Sport at a local dealer.

Intros aside, I'm just now creeping up on 90,000 miles, and throwing together a list of things to check, replace, etc. Looking to get some opinions on more in-depth things I should check and/or change, aside from the basics like oil, brake fluid, coolant, etc. Maybe a silly post, but I'm not an EXTREME car guru, though I can get around an engine bay with some confidence, and do some at-home garage work lol. I know the owners manual has it's own 100,000-mile maintenance list, but figured I'd jump into this now since I'm not sure of the level of care the previous owner put into it. Car fax and records showed regular oil changes, tire rotations, and the normal jazz, so that's of course good, but nothing else listed. After five New England winters, everything's pretty dang solid for the most part (hoses, tubes, body, etc), but not going to take that for granted since I've wanted a Sport for so long! Here's my to-do list so far:

Transmission fluid change (was thinking a flush, but I'll see how the current fluid looks when I drain some)
PTU fluid change
Rear diff fluid change
Fuel system cleaning maybe?
Check spark plugs - then take it from there

As of now, there's no tuning or aftermarket parts. Apologies for the lengthy post, but big thanks for any feedback!
Cheers
Justin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
Hey Zamp, welcome :)

Personally I would change the transmission fluid asap (mine was over a qt low from the factory) , and the PTU fluid. The plugs are kind of a pita so I would just change them and not worry about checking them (check them after but I'm just sayin, goin through the trouble of checking them at 90k you might as well just replace em). The coolant was changed semi-recently to yellow , it is backwards compatible with the other colors.
Other than that, welcome and enjoy! It's a hella fun car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
Drain the trans fluid via the plug, you'll get like 5 qt out. Do that about 2-3 times if you want to be a bit more thorough. Mercon LV.

Definitely change the PTU and rear diff fluid. The PTU has a drain and fill plug luckily. Use a suction pump for the rear diff.

I've been using Berryman B12 for the fuel system cleaner. It will not clean your intake valves but should help with the injectors and combustion chamber. I believe it helped my misfire issues on my Fusion Sport. Also did wonders on my Ducati and my dad's riding mower (Briggs that calls for synthetic 5W-30). If you want to use Techron you need to get the right Techron additive, otherwise the standard injector cleaner/treatment only has like 3%-5% PEA. Redline SI Fuel Treatment has 30%+ PEA and there's a Techron bottle (that looks like an oil bottle more than a fuel cleaner bottle) that has similar PEA content. I just started using Berryman B12 because it is inexpensive and its content (MEK, Toluene, Acetone, alcohol, etc...) is part of its high energy solvent package and shouldn't impact octane. My Ducati seemed to love the stuff as it really cleared out the pipes.

Spark plugs aren't too difficult but they're not a super simple task for the rear plugs. It's totally doable in your garage but it is just a bit more hassle than a simple 5 minute swap. NGK Laser Iridiums or NGK Rutheniums gapped to 0.028" should be good to go. The OE factory factory plugs are just Ford branded NGK Laser Iridiums. You can't get those Motorcraft plugs anymore and have to buy the Ford Racing "colder plug" kit for the 3.5 or I'd just go with NGKs.

I've been running the Rutheniums.

You might also want to pull the throttle body charge pipe hose and inspect the throttle body and inside of the hose for oil. The turbos like to spit oil over the years. It also tends to collect in the intercooler. This isn't something a Tracy Lewis or JLT would solve.

Also may want to put the car on ramps and remove the belly pan, inspect the engine oil pan, PTU, axles, and transmission for leaks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
878 Posts
hello and welcome
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zamp

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Zamp, welcome :)

Personally I would change the transmission fluid asap (mine was over a qt low from the factory) , and the PTU fluid. The plugs are kind of a pita so I would just change them and not worry about checking them (check them after but I'm just sayin, goin through the trouble of checking them at 90k you might as well just replace em). The coolant was changed semi-recently to yellow , it is backwards compatible with the other colors.
Other than that, welcome and enjoy! It's a hella fun car.
Thanks Velocity! I checked the plugs today, and they were surprisingly decent, but had the same idea as you: just change them now and not worry for a while.I'm guessing on the plugs, I could buy them from a dealer, or online I assume?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Drain the trans fluid via the plug, you'll get like 5 qt out. Do that about 2-3 times if you want to be a bit more thorough. Mercon LV.

Definitely change the PTU and rear diff fluid. The PTU has a drain and fill plug luckily. Use a suction pump for the rear diff.

I've been using Berryman B12 for the fuel system cleaner. It will not clean your intake valves but should help with the injectors and combustion chamber. I believe it helped my misfire issues on my Fusion Sport. Also did wonders on my Ducati and my dad's riding mower (Briggs that calls for synthetic 5W-30). If you want to use Techron you need to get the right Techron additive, otherwise the standard injector cleaner/treatment only has like 3%-5% PEA. Redline SI Fuel Treatment has 30%+ PEA and there's a Techron bottle (that looks like an oil bottle more than a fuel cleaner bottle) that has similar PEA content. I just started using Berryman B12 because it is inexpensive and its content (MEK, Toluene, Acetone, alcohol, etc...) is part of its high energy solvent package and shouldn't impact octane. My Ducati seemed to love the stuff as it really cleared out the pipes.

Spark plugs aren't too difficult but they're not a super simple task for the rear plugs. It's totally doable in your garage but it is just a bit more hassle than a simple 5 minute swap. NGK Laser Iridiums or NGK Rutheniums gapped to 0.028" should be good to go. The OE factory factory plugs are just Ford branded NGK Laser Iridiums. You can't get those Motorcraft plugs anymore and have to buy the Ford Racing "colder plug" kit for the 3.5 or I'd just go with NGKs.

I've been running the Rutheniums.

You might also want to pull the throttle body charge pipe hose and inspect the throttle body and inside of the hose for oil. The turbos like to spit oil over the years. It also tends to collect in the intercooler. This isn't something a Tracy Lewis or JLT would solve.

Also may want to put the car on ramps and remove the belly pan, inspect the engine oil pan, PTU, axles, and transmission for leaks.
Thanks for the response Metroplex. The tranny fluid was wayyyy to low the other day when I checked it for the first time, which explains the clunky gear changes since I got the car 😬 Is there a huge difference between normal Ford Motorcraft fluids, or other brands like Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc? Was going to put Motorcraft in, but considering another brand maybe to ensure longevity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
Thanks Velocity! I checked the plugs today, and they were surprisingly decent, but had the same idea as you: just change them now and not worry for a while.I'm guessing on the plugs, I could buy them from a dealer, or online I assume?
Like I wrote above, OEM factory plugs are NGK Laser Iridiums. You can order them online via RockAuto or wherever. I'm running NGK Rutheniums, no problems so far.
The Ford Racing "colder" 3.5L EcoBoost plugs are the factory Fusion Sport heat range. Ford no longer sells the Motorcraft plugs for our Fusion Sports in the old colder heat range. If you go to a dealer they will hand you the 1 heat range hotter plugs that are stock for the 3.5L EcoBoost but NOT stock for the 2.7 - that said the few people that run these haven't experienced adverse effects. You can still get the NGK Laser Iridium or Ruthenium in the original heat range for our engine, as the Ford branded factory plugs even have the NGK Laser Iridium part # stamped on the metal part of the plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
Thanks for the response Metroplex. The tranny fluid was wayyyy to low the other day when I checked it for the first time, which explains the clunky gear changes since I got the car 😬 Is there a huge difference between normal Ford Motorcraft fluids, or other brands like Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc? Was going to put Motorcraft in, but considering another brand maybe to ensure longevity.
Yeah my 2017 Fusion Sport was underfilled by like 1-2 quarts from the factory. I just bought Valvoline ATF from the local store that was rated for Mercon LV. Motorcraft will be fine. Mercon LV is supposed to be a full synthetic anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
Fusion Sport Spark Plugs.JPG


Straight from RockAuto's page. My OE Ford Factory plugs had the NGK ILTR7 numbering stamped on the metal part.
I gapped my plugs to 0.028" but my Rutheniums came out of the box pretty much ready to go at nearly 0.028"

The other option is the Ford Racing 3.5L EcoBoost spark plugs:

These are the stock heat range for the 2.7L EcoBoost, 1 range colder for the 3.5L EcoBoost. There's no such thing as a colder plug for the 2.7 EcoBoost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Drained the transmission fluid today, and only drained out just shy of 3.5qts; a little lower than I excepted. It was pretty dark, but surprisingly not as bad. I put a full 5qts in, and the level now appears to sit cozy on the dip stick. I’ll run it through the gears some more and check it again when it’s actually fully hot. Was a little hesitant to put a full 5qts in, but I noticed many were getting 4.5-5qts in themselves.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top