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Not sure how I feel about that hood scoop yet
 

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Me no likey.
 

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Is that a scat pack fusion lol
 

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Now we just need a Fusion Sport Red Ear widebody to complete the line.
 

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These comments remind me of something little off in the weeds but I can’t resist sharing my favorite forum sick-burn in the history of life...
 

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If I were to modify my hood in any way it would be by adding ventilation at the cowl to allow more hot air to escape from under hood. I think a snorkel like the Big Mouth set up (or from the wheel well, anywhere feasible to grab colder air) with better air pass through from under the hood would be beneficial and, to my eye, not detrimental to the looks of the car. I’d be willing to go so far as adding more height to the “power dome” of the OE hood the way SVT did with the 1995 Cobra R. It would compliment the lines of the car and not be so visually jarring as a scoop standing proud off the hood. The 1997 Cobra “power bulge” with twin nostril intakes looks great too, and would compliment the FuSport styling but the location of the intakes would not work with the organization of stuff under the FuSport hood. It would be much less functional and more of a cosmetic thing though. I’d bet if someone made both the ‘95 Cobra R and the ‘97 Cobra style hoods for the Fusion, they’d sell more ‘97 style and probably as more to people with plain Fusions than Sports.
 

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I know a lot of people try and remove the weatherstriping at the rear of the hood at the cowl area to try and exhaust heat, but that area is a negative pressure area and removing that seal would result in air flowing back into the engine compartment. That's why on heat evacuator hood vent setups from the OEMs have them on the top surface of the hood. Depending on the design, it can also aid in downforce.

On our transverse engine setups, I think the best way to go about this would be top vents and maybe an internal scoop to divert cool air towards that rear turbo. With the lower splash shield in place, the front aero should tunnel air flow through the bottom of the chassis out towards the rear and if you flow some cool air down to the rear turbo it should exhaust with the rest of the heat as well. That suitcase muffler should also help smooth out turbulent airflow at the rear.
 

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Just a couple random thoughts to this point...
It appears that the factory air box is restrictive no matter what filter you use.

The main contributor to the air box restriction is the snorkel.

The airbox and airpath to the snorkel will get heat soaked during heavy traffic idling and slow speeds.

Porting the factory box will help airflow restriction.

Porting to engine bay would lessen time for airbox heat soak.

Need to find a place to bring fresh air into airbox port.

The factory intercooler will keep post turbo temps within 20-30 degrees of intake temps.
Just a thought. After you remove the stock snorkel, there is a large hole. How about using a another tubing of some sort to go from that hole to the original location on the radiator support, and if you have a big moth, that would ram air into the factory box. Maybe a 3d printed connector for the air box and the opening at the radiator support area. Then have a some tubing, kind of like K&N used with their Apollo CAI system to join the two. Just a thought.
 

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Took my car in for service today and my loaner is a 2020 Ranger 4x4 Sport. I popped the hood and see that the air intake has a substantial snorkel at the leading edge of the hood, and under the hood is contoured and sealed to funnel air from all across the front edge to the snorkel! I wish Ford would have tried this hard with the FuSport! Also of note, the intercooler is mounted up high and fully in the main grille opening where it must get a massive amount of airflow.
 

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Ford did that with the Taurus SHO. The air intake snorkle was under the lip of the hood. Recall the Taurus hood folds over the grille like the 05-10 S197 Mustangs. I experimented by cutting a notch from the weatherstriping so that there was direct air flow into the snorkle under the open lip of the hood. I didn't see any quantitative improvements in IAT or air flow. The Ford Mondeo/Fusion platform uses a standard "nosecone" fascia so it's harder to do. Similar issue with the 11-19 Explorer which shares the same airbox/intake as the Taurus but the fender/grille line is taller than the Taurus.
 

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Thanks to @Oreo for all of the work you and others did on this thread.

I recently just purchased a new 2019 and I'm planning to install the Steeda CAI, but the divets in the hood lining was something I wanted to address, and I did not like the idea of manufacturing a cover for it, so I took a different route.

I spent some time looking around the local hardware store today I think I found a relativity easy way to fill in the divets and still allow them to be accessible if you ever need to remove the hood liner. See the attached pics below for my process.

Vidmo
@Vidmo just curious how has this held up since you did it? Velcro still holding up okay? Do you still have divets filled in?
 

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@JRocZilla2.7 They held up fine, but didn't really seal things off any better. I decided to go a different route for sealing the intake.
28082
 

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Hi @dbsimms63,

I created the 3D printed lid with the intention of mass producing (using a cheaper method than 3D printing) and selling them myself. 3D printing is not a cost effective way to produce these. That one you see in my picture cost me over $400 to make due to the size and material involved. I may have a mass produced version out in a few months.
 
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That'd be pretty cool in carbon fiber. Great, now I'm getting a bunch of dumb ideas...
 
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Hi dbsimms. My guess...To clear the conical filter elements? Hope I win a cookie!
I thought they sat deep enough in the box that they wouldn't cause a problem. Others, who have made plastic lids, were flat against the opening, no humps or bumps.
 
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