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Currently I’m at .30 but I believe stock is .30-.32
When I went with .27 it showed no difference from .28 - on the road or on the track.
At .26 it was noticeably off on power, very rough idle, and down two tenths at the track.
At .28 - .30 seems to be the best range for my car and mods. Although I’ve not raced yet at .30 with all mods, I have raced at .30 with stock turbos and exhaust.
New Ford plugs gapped to .30 took away my misfires and smoothed the idle until I reloaded the LMS 93 tune. Then the rough idle came back but I’m not experiencing noticeable misfires or throwing codes like before. Power feels very strong. I’m running MSD coils.
I’m thinking for the upcoming race season I’m just going to keep a set of new plugs on hand and if these start giving me trouble again I’ll replace them. My car has always eaten up plugs for some reason. I’ve been running the LMS tune since 19,000 miles and now I’m at 112,000 and I’m thinking the tune may be a contributing factor in my abbreviated plug life.
 

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Thanks! I think my fuel economy dropped a tad with the plugs at 0.028" or it might be from the Ruthenium plugs.

I'm not sure why the EcoBoost would be hard on plugs. My SHO's 3.5L EcoBoost always ran much smoother even with the turbos maxed out. At 30k miles it never once misfired or had a rough idle or anything of that nature. In the other thread,the 2.7/3.0 was designed to be boosted but from my experience the 3.5 was always a smoother/better running motor whether N/A or GTDI.
 

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Your really comparing apple to oranges, only thing they have in common is 6 cylinders, four cams, two turbos and direct injection. Beyond that they are really two different motors entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter #245
Metro what changes from a wot throttle run from a dead stop versus one you roll into the throttle and end at wot?
 

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Metro what changes from a wot throttle run from a dead stop versus one you roll into the throttle and end at wot?
As in punching it WOT from a dead stop, versus opening it slowly (from a dead stop)? The first one will send a higher/maximum torque demand to the PCM right away. You want to powerbrake launch for the best results obviously. The latter is probably considered "normal" where the torque demand is incremental to the PCM. Are you seeing a difference in misfiring between the two?
 

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Just throwing some wood on that fire but when my misfires first started cropping up, I found that turning off my T/C reduced the perceived severity. I was also having concurrent transmission shifting problems that were diminished by disabling T/C. My mechanic said that upping the power levels was possibly causing the programming to retard timing, fuel, etc., more aggressively to manage torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #248
yes if I roll into the throttle no problems , but when I floor it from the get go it has problems every time even with t/c off or on
 

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Discussion Starter #249 (Edited)
I want to try some different spark plugs should I do the 6510 or the ford racing plugs ? I just realized the day I installed the mkz turbos I also installed a set of sp578 plugs which I now find are 1 step hotter then the sp542 plugs that came with the car stock .
 

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I would recommend the Ford Racing. I know you can get them from Torrie or you can get them here.
 

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I visually inspected all of my OEM plugs with a jeweler's loupe and couldn't spot a difference in any of them. They all looked the same.

I did notice that the 2.7 has only 2 knock sensors one for each bank. They are mounted at the Cyl 1/2 area and at cylinder 4 area if I am reading the FSM diagram correctly. There's a lot of stuff in the way (fuel rails, coolant pipes, etc...) for me to visually identify them. But right against cylinder 6 is the vacuum pump driven by the camshaft. I'm curious if the distance from the knock sensors for cylinder 3 and 6, and the fact the vacuum pump is right next to cylinder 6 could contribute to the misfire detection. I know with the SHO and transverse 3.5 EcoBoost, false knock was a serious issue at least with the earlier models. I'm not sure if Ford did anything in 15-19 on the SHO to fix this. But the 2.7 EcoBoost is the only EcoBoost that I can tell that uses per-cyl spark correction. The 3.5L EcoBoost, from the SHO to the F-series to the Ford GT all use Global, as does the Mustang GT up until 2018 when they went to Per-Cyl along with 4 knock sensors (versus only 2 like the other engines).
 

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One thing a guy can do is simply relocate them, the issue with the 3.5 effects F 150's too. Issue is the timing chain get loose due to wear, the chain slaps around and the knock sensor picks it up and thinks it's spark knock, retarding the ignition. I,ve replaced them with less than a 100,000 and a few with well over that, so its a hit n miss. I know the big factor is keeping up with oil changes and also burning E85 will tear up the guides faster. One thing MMR addressed was to design a better guide for the 5.0, which I guess fixed the issue. Far as the sensors go I would rather have them on the sides of the block just below the head, only issue having them there would be them picking up piston rattle when the engine is cold, and that would only be if they used a forged piston, but I,m guess they went with hyper's.
 

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Oh, and the fuel pump could cause issues as well. they tend to be kinda noisy, and one has to wonder if the sensors pick them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #254
My car did some weird stuff this morning boost dropped to 9 psi then slowly got to 12 at 5500 rpms
 

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So I reinstalled the stock tune and the car works great no issues but I loose 7 psi boost , still the car is no slouch with 14 psi boost View attachment 27422
I have the livewire on my stang, but never even tried the perf meter. Wonder how accurate they are. Got dragy last week, but too cold/salty for it to come out and play.

BTW, how the hell did you reach your top speed, faster than you ran a slower speed in the 1/4, LOL!!
 

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Discussion Starter #256
haha lol I let off the gas before the 1/4 mile ended ran out of road lol
 

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Discussion Starter #258
It is time to break out the smoke tester ..
 

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The car wasn't cold was it? After spending time in the tuning software there's a few things that stand out, commanded boost is based off torque calculations and torque demand (along with torque truncations/etc) but there is an entirely different set of tables depending on engine temp.... for nearly everything. There's 45*, 135*, 175*, 260*, etc, etc, etc. And these are cross referenced with several other temp tables to calculate which table and value is used. So a cold trans/engine may call for 150 less lb ft of torque causing several lbs of boost to seem 'missing'. These also trend the opposite direction for when anything reads too hot it drastically reduces commanded torque/can limit the throttle/boost/etc

Not saying that's definitely what happened but food for thought
 

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Discussion Starter #260 (Edited)
Yes the car was cold first foot to the floor run out of my neighbor hood lol , but I do let the car warm up in my driveway before I drive it
 
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