[stjhalofan]

Hello,

My car is a 2017 with 68k miles on it, i do regular oil changes on it at around 7-8k miles, using 10k mile oil. I am having the limp mode issue that it seems like most people are having with this car. I took it to a ford dealer while it was still under warranty, and they found nothing, but were happy to burn out all of my fuel. I have changed sparkplugs out since I bought the car in june of 2021, that was done in January of 22. Limp mode seemed to be much less common after that occured, but lately it seems to be a once or twice a week thing, and it can happen anywhere, highway, side street, doesnt matter. I actually had it happen twice in one drive home on the highway last month, got the code pulled from that and it was p061c, for Engine rpm not as expected. I am taking my car in to a dealer on 11/28, however i'd like to have some help on where to point them. I love this car, and dont want to get rid of it, but i fear i may have to.

 

[Engineer]

So a couple of things here. First, when you had it in, did they check your battery? These cars are VERY sensitive to battery problems. So if your battery is old, in fact, it might not be a bad idea to just replace it anyway, because these cars can have a lot of trouble (including random stalls) when the battery isn't strong.

That's the first thing.

The other thing is, there's a situation where because of atmospheric conditions, you can get an accumulation of water in your intercooler, and when you turn/accelerate in the right way, that water can get into your air intake and choke out your engine. You might get misfire codes but that's about it. And you can restart the car after that and it'll be fine. Some folks have drilled a very small hole in their intercooler to allow the water to leak out, to avoid that sort of thing. I'm not advocating it, I'm just telling you that's something that can happen and some folks have done that to get rid of that water. If you do it, don't make the hole very large. And of course anybody still under warranty probably doesn't want to do that because it could have warranty implications.

 

[MY27FUSION]

I work at a ford dealer, and we are known to have throttle body issues also check and see if there are any pcm updates available for your vehicle

 

[stjhalofan]

So a couple of thngs here. First, when you had it in, did they check your battery? These cars are VERY sensitive to battery problems. So if your battery is old, in fact, it might not be a bad idea to just replace it anyway, because these cars can have a lot of trouble (including random stalls) when the battery isn't strong.

That's the first thing.

The other thing is, there's a situation where because of atmospheric conditions, you can get an accumulation of water in your intercooler, and when you turn/accelerate in the right way, that water can get into your air intake and choke out your engine. You might get misfire codes but that's about it. And you can restart the car after that and it'll be fine. Some folks have drilled a very small hole in their intercooler to allow the water to leak out, to avoid that sort of thing. I'm not advocating it, I'm just telling you that's something that can happen and some folks have done that to get rid of that water. If you do it, don't make the hole very large. And of course anybody still under warranty probably doesn't want to do that because it could have warranty implications.

I did replace the battery last year actually, because it did die on me after I had purchased the car. It's a nice duralast gold. I can try the intercooler drill, but unsure if it would do anything, it does it in warm weather as well.

 

[LeVeL]

I am having the limp mode issue that it seems like most people are having with this car.

I've never even heard of this. Is your car stock?

 

[OX1]

Hello,

My car is a 2017 with 68k miles on it, i do regular oil changes on it at around 7-8k miles, using 10k mile oil. I am having the limp mode issue that it seems like most people are having with this car. I took it to a ford dealer while it was still under warranty, and they found nothing, but were happy to burn out all of my fuel. I have changed sparkplugs out since I bought the car in june of 2021, that was done in January of 22. Limp mode seemed to be much less common after that occured, but lately it seems to be a once or twice a week thing, and it can happen anywhere, highway, side street, doesnt matter. I actually had it happen twice in one drive home on the highway last month, got the code pulled from that and it was p061c, for Engine rpm not as expected. I am taking my car in to a dealer on 11/28, however i'd like to have some help on where to point them. I love this car, and dont want to get rid of it, but i fear i may have to.

If you are talking about the car randomly just shutting down. Then you coast to stop, hit start button on/off a couple times.
Then restart and it's like nothing ever happened. The only fix that anyone has ever found for that was one guy had
a bad harness (intermittent connection I think). I think it was right near the firewall. You would need to bring that LONG thread back up to find that post.

Still weird that no record of this connection loss, if that is what it really is for most of us, is discovered and/or recorded by PCM (or one of the other modules).

 

[Engineer]

When I got the stalls like that a few years ago right after I got the car, my PCM did actually record "connection lost" codes. That's about all it had stored, though. Just lost connection codes. Which makes sense because if your engine stalls there is probably a lot of stuff that just stops responding mid-communication, or the networks get completely overloaded from all the signals. Either way, that code makes sense to me.

In my case I replaced my battery and it stopped happening, and hasn't happened since.

 

[stjhalofan]

I've never even heard of this. Is your car stock?

Yes Stock Car

 

[OX1]

I've never even heard of this. Is your car stock?

There is a like a 30 page or so thread on it, somewhere.

When I got the stalls like that a few years ago right after I got the car, my PCM did actually record "connection lost" codes. That's about all it had stored, though. Just lost connection codes. Which makes sense because if your engine stalls there is probably a lot of stuff that just stops responding mid-communication, or the networks get completely overloaded from all the signals. Either way, that code makes sense to me.

In my case I replaced my battery and it stopped happening, and hasn't happened since.

Interesting to note. First I've heard of any codes presenting themselves with this issue. I never had any
Granted, I admit I did not check codes as soon as I was stalled in an akward position on the side (or middle) of the road, LOL!!.
All that said, it has happened to me in the past year, maybe once, and I got a new batt a little over a year ago.

 

[stjhalofan]

I made it happen again this morning intentionally, I bought a cheap scanner off amazon, but the only code i got for it was the p061C for engine rpm control module.

 

[Shane8017]

If you are talking about the car randomly just shutting down. Then you coast to stop, hit start button on/off a couple times.
Then restart and it's like nothing ever happened. The only fix that anyone has ever found for that was one guy had
a bad harness (intermittent connection I think). I think it was right near the firewall. You would need to bring that LONG thread back up to find that post.

Still weird that no record of this connection loss, if that is what it really is for most of us, is discovered and/or recorded by PCM (or one of the other modules).

I’m having same issues

 

[Shane8017]

I made it happen again this morning intentionally, I bought a cheap scanner off amazon, but the only code i got for it was the p061C for engine rpm control module.

Same code too hmmm…

 

[FusionLightning]

I’m also having the same limp mode issue. Happened first time a few weeks ago in busy rush hour traffic. Downshifted to get out in left lane of HOV lanes and it shuttered with a thunk (that fuel cut can be violent) and then had to limp it back over onto the shoulder. Scared the **** out of me and easily could have caused a crash in that kind of traffic. Shut it off, waite a minute and then it started back up without issue.

I’ve been a little concerned and have been driving it easily since then and it has had 2 similar incidents, except that I only get the fuel cut. I immediately let off the throttle and it goes back to normal on its own. I suspect if I left my foot in it, it would trip the limp mode again.

Car is a 2017 with about 50k on it, totally stock. These incidents have happened with 87 and 93 octane.

Not very confidence inspiring to say the least.

 

[m278182]

I am having the same problem, hard acceleration check engine and traction control light illuminates. Not good under hard acceleration getting onto highway or passing someone.

 

[bbf2530]

I am having the same problem, hard acceleration check engine and traction control light illuminates. Not good under hard acceleration getting onto highway or passing someone.

Hi m278182. Is your Fusion Sport still within the 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty? If yes, call the Service Department of your Ford Dealer to schedule an appointment and let them properly diagnose and correct the issue.

When you bring your vehicle in, ask the Service Advisor to take a short ride with you, and physically demonstrate the issue. Be sure to have them clearly state they see/feel/hear/smell it happening. This will help avoid the dreaded "Could not duplicate the customer concern" diagnosis.

Keep us updated and good luck.

 

[stjhalofan]

Well, I sold my car back in january, this issue was not worth staying in it. bought a 23 Maverick Tremor though!

 

[FusionLightning]

Forgot to update my previous reply. I replaced the spark plugs with OEM Motorcraft ones and she’s running like usual now, no more fuel cuts or limp mode. This was odd since the plugs that came out didn’t seem too bad. The gap even tested ok. But I’m happy with the small investment to get it back on track.

 

[Shane8017]

Forgot to update my previous reply. I replaced the spark plugs with OEM Motorcraft ones and she’s running like usual now, no more fuel cuts or limp mode. This was odd since the plugs that came out didn’t seem too bad. The gap even tested ok. But I’m happy with the small investment to get it back on track.

That’s also what I did..

 

[Engineer]

Just for anybody else who has this problem and sees this thread, in addition to the good information in the replies above, you should check your battery. These cars do really strange things if the battery is weak at all.