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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this morning while driving on the highway at about 75 mph my low oil pressure light came on...the car didn't loose any power that I noticed. I had no check engine lights. As soon as I was off the highway I pulled into a gas station to check the oil level and it seemed good. I'm at 3000 miles since my last oil change using Full Synthetic Motorcraft. My car has not ever experienced a rough idle. It's never had any blue/white smoke out the tail pipes. As soon as I restarted the car the light was off. My car has just over 11,000 miles on it and has a build date of 1/17. Thoughts????

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I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago and it hasn't appeared since nor did it store a code for the warning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago and it hasn't appeared since nor did it store a code for the warning.
Hopefully it was completely random or worst case just needs a new sensor

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I'm still waiting on new heads at 16k miles, but never experienced any rough idle or DTCs either, and only had a little smoke one time (supposedly it only happens under certain 'warm idle after restart' conditions, and one time I did it right). I'd take it in to get looked at. At least get it logged that you had the issue.

When you checked the oil, you waited the 15+ minutes after turning off the car? The dipstick in these 2.7s are ridiculously hard to read. There's always a very thin smear of oil going down my whole dipstick, and a thicker layer on the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm still waiting on new heads at 16k miles, but never experienced any rough idle or DTCs either, and only had a little smoke one time (supposedly it only happens under certain 'warm idle after restart' conditions, and one time I did it right). I'd take it in to get looked at. At least get it logged that you had the issue.

When you checked the oil, you waited the 15+ minutes after turning off the car? The dipstick in these 2.7s are ridiculously hard to read. There's always a very thin smear of oil going down my whole dipstick, and a thicker layer on the end.
Yeah I did not have the time to wait...I checked within 5 minutes of turning the car off...I can go check now as it's been several hours since turning the car off...and you are right the dipstick is the PITA to read

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is my dipstick after sitting all day...doesn't seem low at all.


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I had this same exact problem last fall. cruising at 75 mph near the end of a 6 hour trip. low oil pressure light comes on so I take the next exit and stop at a gas station. wait 15ish minutes to check the oil and it looks good, maybe slightly low. turn the car back on and the lights gone. I brought it into the shop the next day and they told me I was a quart low but saw no codes. very strange. They chalked it up to being normal oil loss (bs). Mines been fine since but Id definitely bring yours in.
 

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I'm still waiting on new heads at 16k miles, but never experienced any rough idle or DTCs either, and only had a little smoke one time (supposedly it only happens under certain 'warm idle after restart' conditions, and one time I did it right). I'd take it in to get looked at. At least get it logged that you had the issue.

When you checked the oil, you waited the 15+ minutes after turning off the car? The dipstick in these 2.7s are ridiculously hard to read. There's always a very thin smear of oil going down my whole dipstick, and a thicker layer on the end.
I thought it was just me.
I actually had a minor panic attack trying to read that BS dipstick.

....was I out of oil?

I've been looking for a white/light paint coating that is oil/ high heat proof.
No joy so far.
 
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This is my dipstick after sitting all day...doesn't seem low at all.


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Hey, how is going with this problem? Is it fixed or it acquired again?
I am having the same problem, and only today bought a car. It is not new 2017m Fusion sport.
Should i take it back? Or it is just minor problem?
 

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I recently had the same issue light came on once. But never again. Went to the dealership they inspected the oil pressure switch, the harness going to it, and check actual oil pressure with a guage. All came back good they said it was most likely a computer glitch.
 

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O had this happen to me once and it was like the car freaked out whole dash lit up, flashed, low oil pressure. I shut it down, checked oil level and then started it back up and it was fine. Possibly related but not sure shortly after that I had battery issues and replaced it and haven't looked back. Can not say for certain but I know these cars are very finicky when in a low voltage condition and could be contributing to this issue.
 

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O had this happen to me once and it was like the car freaked out whole dash lit up, flashed, low oil pressure. I shut it down, checked oil level and then started it back up and it was fine. Possibly related but not sure shortly after that I had battery issues and replaced it and haven't looked back. Can not say for certain but I know these cars are very finicky when in a low voltage condition and could be contributing to this issue.
I was having occasional weird glitches and stalls for a few months. It didn't happen very often, but every once in a while the car would just shut down, dash lit up like a Christmas tree. No real DTCs except communication failures across the CAN bus. Started right back up every time.

At the time, I thought it was a fuel system issue maybe, so I put some Techron in a tank to clean things up. But right after that my battery died, and I replaced it. The problem hasn't happened since. Now I'm sort of wondering if the problem was the battery all along. That was oh, I don't know, 6 months ago or something. There hasn't been a problem since.

It does make some sense because the car had been sitting on dealer lots for months before I bought it. So it doesn't surprise me the battery was shot. I kind of wish I hadn't put the Techron in just so I could be 100% sure it was the battery, but I will tell you if it happens again in a few years I'll be checking that battery out pretty quick.
 

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I was having occasional weird glitches and stalls for a few months. It didn't happen very often, but every once in a while the car would just shut down, dash lit up like a Christmas tree. No real DTCs except communication failures across the CAN bus. Started right back up every time.

At the time, I thought it was a fuel system issue maybe, so I put some Techron in a tank to clean things up. But right after that my battery died, and I replaced it. The problem hasn't happened since. Now I'm sort of wondering if the problem was the battery all along. That was oh, I don't know, 6 months ago or something. There hasn't been a problem since.

It does make some sense because the car had been sitting on dealer lots for months before I bought it. So it doesn't surprise me the battery was shot. I kind of wish I hadn't put the Techron in just so I could be 100% sure it was the battery, but I will tell you if it happens again in a few years I'll be checking that battery out pretty quick.
Hi Engineer. Modern vehicles are heavily computer/electronic/electrical dependent. While Internet diagnosis is iffy at best, the symptoms you describe, and the fact that the battery died and the problems stopped right after a new battery was installed, very likely means it was all due to a failing/defective battery. Not a guarantee, but very likely.

On a side note; You say "I replaced it". Did you pay for the battery or did you have it replaced under warranty? Just want to ensure that others know a battery replacement is covered under the 3 year/36,000 mile New Car Warranty.

Good luck..
 
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Hi Engineer. Modern vehicles are heavily computer/electronic/electrical dependent. While Internet diagnosis is iffy at best, the symptoms you describe, and the fact that the battery died and the problems stopped right after a new battery was installed, very likely means it was all due to a failing/defective battery. Not a guarantee, but very likely.

On a side note; You say "I replaced it". Did you pay for the battery or did you have it replaced under warranty? Just want to ensure that others know a battery replacement is covered under the 3 year/36,000 mile New Car Warranty.

Good luck..
Hi @bbf2530 Thanks! And I did end up paying for the battery. I was a little annoyed at the time because the dealership said I had to drive the car in to have the battery evaluated and they'd decide whether it was covered. But I figured by the time I got there it would read a full charge and pass. So I just bought one. They did offer though. It just wasn't practical for me at the time to use the warranty.
 

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Hi @bbf2530 Thanks! And I did end up paying for the battery. I was a little annoyed at the time because the dealership said I had to drive the car in to have the battery evaluated and they'd decide whether it was covered. But I figured by the time I got there it would read a full charge and pass. So I just bought one. They did offer though. It just wasn't practical for me at the time to use the warranty.
Hi Engineer. Yes, the battery needs to be tested before it can be replaced under warranty. If the Dealer does not test the battery first, so they can show it failed, Ford will not reimburse the Dealership for the replacement battery or labor.

Just to explain what the Service Department meant when they said you "...had to drive the car in to have the battery evaluated and they'd decide whether it was covered.": As long as the battery fails the test, it is covered under warranty, naturally. And also naturally, if it does not fail, the Dealer will not replace it under warranty.

Good luck.
 

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Hi Engineer. Yes, the battery needs to be tested before it can be replaced under warranty. If the Dealer does not test the battery first, so they can show it failed, Ford will not reimburse the Dealership for the replacement battery or labor.

Just to explain what the Service Department meant when they said you "...had to drive the car in to have the battery evaluated and they'd decide whether it was covered.": As long as the battery fails the test, it is covered under warranty, naturally. And also naturally, if it does not fail, the Dealer will not replace it under warranty.

Good luck.
@bbf2530 Yes I agree with all of that. I even saw it from the dealer's point of view and agreed with them. Just to be clear, my annoyance wasn't with the dealer. It was just the facts of what was happening:

1. The battery was dead
2. I had been having weird glitches prior
3. I had already had the battery tested a few weeks before at an auto parts store and it passed

So I figured all in all it probably wasn't worth my time and effort to go to the dealer to try to get a replacement on the battery when I could just buy one for under $200. Even though it was still under warranty.

And again, I don't blame them. I don't work for Ford but I would totally not replace equipment either without being able to reproduce a problem, or confirm a failure. It's all good, it just wasn't practical for me in that situation, at that time, to take it in. But yes, anyone who wants to do so and is still under warranty should be able to.

The more I learn about the stalling stuff though, the more I think it's just how these newer cars behave when the battery is on the edge.
 

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@bbf2530 Yes I agree with all of that. I even saw it from the dealer's point of view and agreed with them. Just to be clear, my annoyance wasn't with the dealer. It was just the facts of what was happening:

1. The battery was dead
2. I had been having weird glitches prior
3. I had already had the battery tested a few weeks before at an auto parts store and it passed

So I figured all in all it probably wasn't worth my time and effort to go to the dealer to try to get a replacement on the battery when I could just buy one for under $200. Even though it was still under warranty.

And again, I don't blame them. I don't work for Ford but I would totally not replace equipment either without being able to reproduce a problem, or confirm a failure. It's all good, it just wasn't practical for me in that situation, at that time, to take it in. But yes, anyone who wants to do so and is still under warranty should be able to.

The more I learn about the stealing stuff though, the more I think it's just how these newer cars behave when the battery is on the edge.
Hi Engineer. I completely understand your point of view and was not making any type of judgment on what you chose to do. :)
And suspecting the battery would be the first thing on my mind too. I was only making the warranty information known.

You may be surprised how many people are not aware how extensive the New Car Warranty actually is. I have been surprised myself by the number of fellow owners who did not know the battery, and many other things, were covered for the full warranty period.

Also, another option for times like this when you don't have time to drop off your car: You can do what I have done once or twice in my life. Drive your car to the Dealer. Buy the new battery there (using the discount coupon available on the Ford Owners website). Change the battery yourself in the parking lot and leave the old one for them to run the diagnostics.

Or alternately, remove the battery at home, use another car to drop it off, buy the new one, bring it home and install etc. If the battery fails, the Dealer will reimburse you for the cost of the battery. If it passes, the discount coupon got you a new Motorcraft Max battery for about $120 and you still saved about $80. Either way, you had to drive somewhere and change a battery.
Of course, I don't know where you live, how accessible your Dealer and other auto stores are, etc., it is just another option that can save us money.

One last thing. Batteries for today's cars must be tested using a deep load test. Most auto parts stores use the old simple battery test, which is not sufficient due to the loads placed on the battery by modern cars. The old style test can pass a lot of failing batteries.

A load test eliminates the variable you were worried about when you stated, "But I figured by the time I got there it would read a full charge and pass". Your failing battery still would have failed the load test, even if it seemed to have a full charge when you got there. Again, just information I hope will be helpful in the future for you or others.

Hope some of this information helps and good luck.
 
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@bbf2530 as usual, an excellent post filled with helpful information :cool:

Yeah looking back on it I probably should have handled that differently and I'd have come out, as you mentioned, at least $80 ahead, maybe more. People can say what they will about Ford but they do cover a lot during the warranty period, as long as it can be proven the vehicle actually has a problem, which is totally reasonable.

Actually until the dealership told me that, I hadn't known the battery was even covered. I think a lot of people just see a battery as a disposable item so it's something they don't expect to be covered, but it's cool that it is.

I wonder if that's considered part of the powertrain or not, in other words whether or not it would qualify for the longer warranty. That would be interesting. Of course mine wouldn't be, unless I went and bought a Motorcraft from Ford, since my new battery wasn't from Ford. But still interesting stuff.
 

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@bbf2530 as usual, an excellent post filled with helpful information :cool:

Yeah looking back on it I probably should have handled that differently and I'd have come out, as you mentioned, at least $80 ahead, maybe more. People can say what they will about Ford but they do cover a lot during the warranty period, as long as it can be proven the vehicle actually has a problem, which is totally reasonable.

Actually until the dealership told me that, I hadn't known the battery was even covered. I think a lot of people just see a battery as a disposable item so it's something they don't expect to be covered, but it's cool that it is.

I wonder if that's considered part of the powertrain or not, in other words whether or not it would qualify for the longer warranty. That would be interesting. Of course mine wouldn't be, unless I went and bought a Motorcraft from Ford, since my new battery wasn't from Ford. But still interesting stuff.
Hi Engineer. Glad something I wrote earlier made sense and helped. ;)

And just the FYI on your battery question: No, the battery is only covered under the 3 year/36,000 mile New Car Warranty.

Then it gets a little trickier, but I'll try to explain. If a battery is replaced under warranty, it will then still be under warranty for the balance of your 3 year/36,000 mile New Car Warranty.

However, the warranty on a Motorcraft battery that you purchase yourself depends on the grade of battery and is not connected to the New Car Warranty at all.
Motorcraft has two main consumer grades: "Motorcraft Tested Tough" and "Motorcraft Tested Tough MAX".
The Motorcraft Tested Tough MAX is the better grade and it has a 36 month full replacement/100 month pro-rated replacement warranty. Off the top of my head, i do not know the lesser grade warranty period.

Good luck. :)
 
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Looks like my problem isn't some glitch... I had again same light for low pressure. Checked at service, first they say maybe because of low oil. So refiled. But now i had same problem again. Going to check at services. Maybe some more ideas what could be wrong?
Light comes after about 1h drive.
When light comes no safe drive (no low power). Everything works fine.
Oil refilled.
 
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