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That is next on my list of goodies to get since tracks are closed , was it easy to setup
 

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I got one too but we also got 8” of snow the past two days so I haven’t tried it yet.
 

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I thought about buying one but the long-term reviews about battery problems made me hesitant. I figure I could manually replace the Li-Ion battery when the time comes but I didn't care enough about dragy to worry too much.
 

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One thing I like about my Cobb Acessport on the 2013 I have is I can do either 1/4 mile times, or 0 to 60 times. Seems to be pretty accurate, wish we had a app with in the HP logging soft wear that worked like it, be a help full tool.
 

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lets see a 1/4 mile pass run , you are running E50?
 

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Same ET and trap as my SHO with just a tune! I'm curious how much spark you're running at WOT with that E50. I've run E50 a few times without any issues but mainly because gas was $4/gal and E85 was $1.80/gal at the time (about 2 summers ago).
 

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Your car boogies , interested in the misfire issue , how much boost psi
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I’m not sure how much timing Torrie shoved in it but it was as much as he was comfortable with. Boost maxes out around 21-22psi. I’m not sure how it compares to the Race Box but, FWIW I’ve heard the Dragy it quite accurate for what it is.
 

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I looked for alternatives to the Vbox for the longest time and most of the 10 Hz GPS meters were designed primarily as laptimers. I guess there is a larger market for people road racing than drag racing, because they were all focused on laptimers. Then some of them started to add in drag-racing acceleration features but did it in a half-assed way. I see Race Box can also function as a laptimer so the acceleration stuff is probably an after thought. Dragy seems like a solid product and there is a huge following of people sharing their drag times to compare themselves online. But I've seen more than a few reviews saying that after a few years the batteries die or the machine doesn't turn on anymore. I figure I can physically replace the Li-Ion battery if I decided to buy one. But I no longer really care that much about 1/4 mile times. When the next-gen of EV performance cars come out, they'll suck the doors off all these gas cars anyhow.
 

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“When the next-gen of EV performance cars come out, they'll suck the doors off all these gas cars anyhow.” All I can say is no bueno! Haha! I know the EVs are a revelation but I need the smell of oil and gasoline and the roar of exhaust, the whir of oiled machinery to be truly satisfied! It’s not just about the speed for me.
 

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Just did some research into this, and the deltas on the Dragy readings are extremely low relative to the results from track counters. In other words, those Dragys have very, very high accuracy. Really high accuracy. Almost like going to a track.
 

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Threw 3 codes at the end of the run (cylinder #1/#5/random misfire) that put me in limp mode. But I think it was right around the 1/4mi mark.

That thing seems dead on accurate.

I looked for alternatives to the Vbox for the longest time and most of the 10 Hz GPS meters were designed primarily as laptimers. I guess there is a larger market for people road racing than drag racing, because they were all focused on laptimers. Then some of them started to add in drag-racing acceleration features but did it in a half-assed way. I see Race Box can also function as a laptimer so the acceleration stuff is probably an after thought. Dragy seems like a solid product and there is a huge following of people sharing their drag times to compare themselves online. But I've seen more than a few reviews saying that after a few years the batteries die or the machine doesn't turn on anymore. I figure I can physically replace the Li-Ion battery if I decided to buy one. But I no longer really care that much about 1/4 mile times. When the next-gen of EV performance cars come out, they'll suck the doors off all these gas cars anyhow.
So far, they just don't have the top end rush you can get pretty easy with a blown V-8.
I hammered a model 3 perf from 85-130 pretty good. Then again, they take about 7
seconds from 102-130, where I am @ 3.8s.

Been trying to get this company to sell me some in wheel motors, so I can go electric car hunting out of the hole too.
Direct-drive in-wheel motors - Elaphe
I only need them to work up to about 20 MPH, then they can shut down, so could use a pretty small battery pack in the trunk spare
area I'd guess. I'm only 60'ing 1.71ish and running 10.8's (@ 130). Imagine another 2 tenths out of the hole, I'm now @ 10.4's (and only a
$5500 short block, a set of injectors, and a pulley away from another 300 WHP, if required).

I still think this type of V-8/electric hybrid is going to be hard to beat once someone builds it relatively economically.
Of course, all bets are off if they get lighter solid state batteries to work as advertised.
 

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Also

I sent this E-mail to Torrie

Howdy

All's well here, but I do have a question.
Brake boosting in my Fusion Sport has always seemed to kind of shut everything down, after a very short time frame.
It's been very tricky to be able to brake boost, and then launch in that short timeframe.

Curious if you have any comment about post # 10 here


Which talks about changing the time for Brake Override Timer (which is supposedly set @ .9 seconds), according
to guys who tune themselves with HP. Is this parameter adjustable with SCT and can I get it set to a longer time?
 
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