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Engine/Trans Break in period...

10395 Views 19 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  [email protected]
Curious to get some opinions on the suggested 1,000 mile break in period. This is my second new car, and the last one I drove out of the dealer lot like it was stolen. With that said, I never experienced adverse effects or performance issues.

I changed my tune with this car, and told myself I was going to abide by the 1,000 mile break in period with the exception a few foot stompers for video purposes.

Anyone else keep(ing) their engine virgin like for the first 1k? Thoughts? Opinions?
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I know I certainly haven't. haha. Just been driving how I want (through 700 miles) and not worrying about it a ton.
I'm not really sure I'm too concerned about it, but I have been trying just for a little piece of mind. But to add to the Virgin analogy.... It's like having a supper hot girlfriend and she just keeps asking, maybe even begging you to, you know, do it. It's very hard to resist. I know I've definitely been to third base a couple times with her. >:)
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The best break in for modern cars is to drive normally and don't abuse it like that Autovlog dude who is going to sell that car someday to someone. Fully warm it up before aggressive driving to make sure the fluid temps are up to normal range.
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Fair feedback... and thanks!

I've gotten on it a few times, hard... she was asking for it. But, I did let her warm up a bit and drive it around. Figured I'd get some opinions and thoughts on what everyone is doing with their FuSpo.
I think that's the main thing as well.. Just let it get to operating temperatures and go to town after that
The important thing about break in is to never baby your car while never abusing it. Back in the old Yamaha Taurus SHO days, we consistently saw that the fastest cars were the ones who followed this strategy. Even after the temperature appears normal, give it at least 5 minutes and several miles more as the other fluids can take longer to reach normal temps than just the coolant
I usually let it warm up a fair bit anyway... Those seats need time to get cool or warm depending on the season... :D. Seems like the consensus is no special attention is needed.
Don't go too hard for too long, but don't baby it either. A good break-in requires some spirited driving to seat the rings, but too much of it will glaze the cylinders. As long as you aren't running the Texas mile, lugging it at low RPM, or towing a boat you are good to go. Give 'er what she wants!
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I think Bot_Rocket said it best. I just brought mine off the dealer lot today and ive not been afraid of the pedal. Im not racing it to 140MPH, but dont be afraid to get under boost and the RPMS. One of the biggest parts of breaking in a motor is setting the pistons rings. This happens within the first 100 miles or so of driving. Basically what happens is your piston rings dont not make a perfect seal with the cylinder wall on a brand new engine. The engine is actually supposed to press the rings and apply pressure to complete the seal against the cylinder wall, if you fail to get the pressure up enough, you can end up with lack luster compression and early wear due to a non optimal seal. I am at 160Miles now and the difference in the engine from when I drove it off the lot to now is definitely noticeable.
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A good guide that I sorta loosely follow. New Engine Break-in Procedure

I did this sorta break in with my last brand new engine. It was in 2006 with a Cobalt SS Supercharged. After 40K miles I tested the compression on the motor, 220-240 across the board. People that did weak engine break ins in the 170-190 range.
My friend is an automotive engineer and SAE member. He says to take it easy during the first 1,000 miles. After 400 miles, the piston ring seating begins. Accelerate from 2,000 to 4,000 rpm in 3rd or fourth gear. Do not allow it to downshift, so initially you need to use less than full power, the go to full power. Note that this is a rolling start. Do this 6 times. Then wait another 75 to 100 miles before repeating the process. At 1,000 miles, the rings should be seated. The result of this break-in method is more power and longer engine life.
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I can only speak from experience - I have never babied a car during breakin and never once had a problem over the past 10 years and about 6 new cars from BMW to F150 and now the sport - We took our BMW to the track at 1100 miles and it is one of the fastest 1/4 Bimmers around

- The one thing I do is change the oil at 1000 miles - I have always used Mobile One -
My friend is an automotive engineer and SAE member. He says to take it easy during the first 1,000 miles. After 400 miles, the piston ring seating begins. Accelerate from 2,000 to 4,000 rpm in 3rd or fourth gear. Do not allow it to downshift, so initially you need to use less than full power, the go to full power. Note that this is a rolling start. Do this 6 times. Then wait another 75 to 100 miles before repeating the process. At 1,000 miles, the rings should be seated. The result of this break-in method is more power and longer engine life.
Literally the exact opposite of everything ive ever read about an engine break it. It really does not make sense that it would take 400 miles for the rings to begin seating. I mean really, why would the rings "refuse" to seat during the first 400 miles? Are they made some super exotic metal that somehow knows when it should start to wear in? Rings start seating from the moment you turn the engine on, the moment they being to grind against the cylinder wall, the moment the are exposed to the heat and pressure of the engine.

I did a hard break on my motor and as of right now based on the limited number of drag strip reports, I think I have the fastest stock ford fusion on these forums. BOT_Rocket ran the 1/8th and trapped 77MP, OXI also ran the 1/8th and trapped 77MPH, I was trapping 79MPH in the 1/8th.
Literally the exact opposite of everything ive ever read about an engine break it. It really does not make sense that it would take 400 miles for the rings to begin seating. I mean really, why would the rings "refuse" to seat during the first 400 miles? Are they made some super exotic metal that somehow knows when it should start to wear in? Rings start seating from the moment you turn the engine on, the moment they being to grind against the cylinder wall, the moment the are exposed to the heat and pressure of the engine.

I did a hard break on my motor and as of right now based on the limited number of drag strip reports, I think I have the fastest stock ford fusion on these forums. BOT_Rocket ran the 1/8th and trapped 77MP, OXI also ran the 1/8th and trapped 77MPH, I was trapping 79MPH in the 1/8th.
I don't know that proves much, since i certainly didn't baby mine, but i do agree with you that this 400 miles to start break-in is crazy talk. Id say it would be a good idea to avoid towing and any hard runs more than a few seconds, but to baby it for 400 miles? If they aren't glazed by then, they are at least 400 miles behind in the break-in process.
I don't know that proves much, since i certainly didn't baby mine, but i do agree with you that this 400 miles to start break-in is crazy talk. Id say it would be a good idea to avoid towing and any hard runs more than a few seconds, but to baby it for 400 miles? If they aren't glazed by then, they are at least 400 miles behind in the break-in process.
Sure its not fact, but when you say you didnt baby yours, I drove mine hard. I really pushed the motor for the first 200 miles. They day i bought it, I probably went WOT 100 times.
Sure its not fact, but when you say you didnt baby yours, I drove mine hard. I really pushed the motor for the first 200 miles. They day i bought it, I probably went WOT 100 times.
When I say, "I didn't baby it," its like saying, "I wasn't very nice to him," after I beat a man into a coma.

I got my first speeding ticket in many years before my paperwork was even finalized. I put 200 miles on it that first night, much of which was spent at WOT.

All I'm saying is that there is probably some other variable than break-in that explains the different trap speeds.
When I say, "I didn't baby it," its like saying, "I wasn't very nice to him," after I beat a man into a coma.

I got my first speeding ticket in many years before my paperwork was even finalized. I put 200 miles on it that first night, much of which was spent at WOT.

All I'm saying is that there is probably some other variable than break-in that explains the different trap speeds.
Agreed, altitude, temp all play into it. At the same time I think if nothing else, its good evidence to support that a strong break in does not damage or diminish the power of the engine.
Agreed, altitude, temp all play into it. At the same time I think if nothing else, its good evidence to support that a strong break in does not damage or diminish the power of the engine.
exactly. I am curious to know if anybody actually has the self control to follow the "baby it" break-in so we can see if the EB actually cares how you treat it.
One of the other things I do during breakin and even after that -- along with low end spirited driving - on the highway I never let the engine just lug around ie at 2000 rpm or less- I down shift to keep it at around 3000 - This was some advice I got from a really good race driver and a tuner - of course if I go on a long drive I will let it cruise for a while - expression is use it or lose it!!!!
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