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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoping you guys could help me out here. A little bit of background, I have a mid (June) 2017 build Sport with about 98,000Km's on it. It's seen oil changes every 9,500 - 10,000 km's including a break in one at 2500 km's when I took delivery of the car which was factory ordered. In 2019 I got an engine oil sample at 44,000km's that had roughly 9,500kms on the oil (Motorcraft LFS full synthetic per manual) and another at 92,000km's that had just over 11,000km's on it (Mobil 1 Synthetic). I finally got around to testing the samples with Canadian lab AGAT. The car has only ever gotten 91 octane from Shell and I don't drive it hard nor track it etc. What came back was a tad alarming but I don't know how to fully make sense of it.

#1: So the first report of the older oil indicated the following of concern,

Flagged Result Possible Causes Significance of Result / Recommended Action
B - Boron Boron is a common anti-wear (AW) and extreme pressure (EP) additive in engine and
gear oils.
Lower than expected boron levels may indicate additive depletion/precipitation or
dilution. Identify and evaluate the cause. Verify the identity of the oil in use.

VISC100 - Viscosity
at 100 C
Lower than expected viscosity may be due to contamination with lower grade oil, fuel
or degradation due to shearing or extended drain intervals.
Lower than expected viscosity may indicate contamination or degradation of the oil.
Verify the identity and grade of the oil in use. Identify and evaluate the cause.
Consider changing the oil.

VISC40 - Viscosity at
40 C
Lower than expected viscosity may be due to contamination with lower grade oil, fuel
or degradation due to shearing or extended drain intervals.
Lower than expected viscosity may indicate contamination or degradation of the oil.
Verify the identity and grade of the oil in use. Identify and evaluate the cause.
Consider changing the oil.

#2: The latest report from my last oil change indicates the following,

Flagged Result Possible Causes Significance of Result / Recommended Action

Ca - Calcium Calcium may be found in alkaline additives. It may also be found in hard water and
road salt.
Lower than expected calcium levels may indicate additive depletion/precipitation or
dilution. Identify and evaluate the cause. Verify the identity of the oil in use.

Mg - Magnesium Magnesium may be found in alkaline additives. It may also be found in hard water and
road salt.
Higher than expected magnesium levels may indicate contamination. Identify and
evaluate the source. Verify the identity of the oil in use.

VISC100 - Viscosity
at 100 C
Lower than expected viscosity may be due to contamination with lower grade oil, fuel
or degradation due to shearing or extended drain intervals.
Lower than expected viscosity may indicate contamination or degradation of the oil.
Verify the identity and grade of the oil in use. Identify and evaluate the cause.
Consider changing the oil.

I've also attached the actual value charts, any insight you guys could provide is invaluable
28409
28410
, thanks!
 

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Using Mobil1 synthetic, or or Mobil1 synthetic, extended performance? I only use the latter, as
oil tests done 10-15 years ago, when they supposedly cheapened up Mobil1 (something on base stocks)
oil and made 2 "grades" essentially, out of it, claimed only the ext performance was as good as the original
Mobil1 1 from 30 odd years ago.

I've always been a 3000 mile oil change guy, buy I go out to 5K due only to the fact I believe the better
Mobil1 to be good enough to survive the extra 2K. I also try to go a little earlier, if applicable, in summer
months due to heat.
 

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Using Mobil1 synthetic, or or Mobil1 synthetic, extended performance? I only use the latter, as
oil tests done 10-15 years ago, when they supposedly cheapened up Mobil1 (something on base stocks)
oil and made 2 "grades" essentially, out of it, claimed only the ext performance was as good as the original
Mobil1 1 from 30 odd years ago.

I've always been a 3000 mile oil change guy, buy I go out to 5K due only to the fact I believe the better
Mobil1 to be good enough to survive the extra 2K. I also try to go a little earlier, if applicable, in summer
months due to heat.
I agree with OX1 your problem may be the mileage and length of time between your oil changes. Depending on how much you drive and where you drive you could be doing an oil change only once a year. Having your oil changed regularly is one of the least expensive most important things you can do for your car and to me regularly is every 3 to 5 thousand miles.
 

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2019 > 2018 > 2017 :)
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2019 > 2018 > 2017 :)
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IMO your report is showing that you are getting gasoline into your oil. This is responsible for your viscosity loss. I would be real interested to see your Flash Point reading. The fuel in your gas could also be responsible for the other "off" readings.

I am with @OX1. I have used Mobile One for years and now use Mobil One Extended Performance. I have settled on oil change @ 6 months or 5K miles. I also use a catch can.

Here is my latest Black Stone Report. I tried to do the 7500 miles between changes, but as you can see in the report the Flash Point of the oil dropped to an undesirable 375 degrees, even with the catch can.
 

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I agree with the general consensus that you may want to change the oil in half the time ~5k, or look at a higher quality oil. There's a case to put in a catch can also based on the data. I agree with maydk65 that you maybe getting some fuel vapor getting mixed in.
 

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Fuel dilution of the oil is very common on GTDI engines. That's why you need to change it every 5000 miles, regardless of whether it is Kirkland Signature 5W-30 Synthetic or some boutique mail order multi-level marketing pyramid oil. As long as it meets API SP, ILSAC GF-6 (or the latest spec in case someone reads this in the future). The Ford spec is hard to keep track of because they change the numbers from time to time, but GM's Dexos 1 Gen 2 licensing is good to go even for Ford EcoBoost. API SP / GF-6 accounts for LSPI and timing chain wear, or tries to, with lower calcium levels for LSPI, etc...

I'd be more concerned with wear metals (Aluminum, Iron), and possible dirt ingestion (Silicon). Copper is usually more prevalent in newer engines. Blackstone claims it takes about 30k miles before EcoBoost engines settle in with lower Copper and other metals.

TBN is also another important number and usually costs extra but it's something you should opt for with a used oil analysis.

Viscosity usually thins out into a xW-20 by the time you change the oil with a GTDI engine at 5k miles.
 

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Everyone in this thread commenting on frequency of oil changes - please note OP is from Canada and he write 10k KM, not miles. Thats about 5500-6500k miles, which is fine and within range of recommendations..
 

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I had no issue with his mileage. Was just stating what my experience had been. Also, why I thought his numbers were off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Appreciate the insights everyone, I actually don't know the specific Mobil 1 oil the dealer used. I had requested the motorcraft recommended synthetic (LFS I think?) but they often don't have so use Mobil 1 synthetic. I just purchased the latest spec Mobil 1 full synthetic just so I can 100% verify the oil used and will do two more tests to keep it consistent. To keep the tests consistent do we recommend doing 10,000km's with the 2nd change going to 8000 to see if there is an appreciable difference? It's crazy to me that Ford can recommend 16,000km oil changes and "lifetime" PTU / Diff fluids when that is not at all the case. What's TBN @metroplex?

My biggest concern at this point is ensuring if these reports are indicating anything engine related that should be addressed while I'm still under my powertrain warranty. I've sent them off to my dealer to see if they could provide any insight as well.
 

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TBN is the Total Base Number. This the measurement of Alkaline additive in your oil. The purpose is to neutralize acid build up in your oil. As the Base Number declines, the more acidic your oil can become leading to corrosion and sludge build up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OX1, the first one is what I bought, what's the appreciable difference? It meets both the A1 and B1 spec of 946 oil spec.
 

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Motorcraft full-synthetic 5w30 (not the blend) seems to always fall into the 5w20 range after use, even at your intervals. I used it for 6 oil changes before just recently switching to Castrol Edge EP, and every single time it tested the same way for me.

Also it's easy for Ford and other brands to say it's "lifetime fluid" because it'll easily last long enough for most owners who trade their cars every 3 - 5 years (so low maintenance for them), or something fails and that's the end of it's life!
 

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@ottlife91, the Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic is the the catch all full synthetic. The Extended Performance is formulated to meet turbo charged engine requirements, more specifically the heat requirements for the turbo performance. With that said, I do not knock the performance of the Mobil 1 Advanced. I have used it on all my
non-turbo charge vehicles in the past. It is not a bad lubricant. I have never had an oil related engine failure while using a Mobil 1 product.
 

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@ottlife91, the Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic is the the catch all full synthetic. The Extended Performance is formulated to meet turbo charged engine requirements, more specifically the heat requirements for the turbo performance. With that said, I do not knock the performance of the Mobil 1 Advanced. I have used it on all my
non-turbo charge vehicles in the past. It is not a bad lubricant. I have never had an oil related engine failure while using a Mobil 1 product.
Does anybody know how any of these oils being discussed compare to the Motorcraft semi-synthetic Ford likes to use for the prepaid oil changes? I ask because that's what my car is getting (at least until my prepaid oil changes are used up).

Thanks!
 

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The number one advantage to consider, is the reduced carbon deposits. Blended oil still uses conventional oil base stock. This can be as high as 70% of the oil in blended oil. Conventional oil does not stand up well to the higher temps in our engines and turbos compared to full synthetic, thus breaking down faster and subject to vaporization, This allows for a faster build up of carbon deposits on our direct injection intake valves.

As I am sure you are aware, our engines are subject to gas blow-by. This is due to our turbo boosted engines. This blow by dilutes our oil. Full Synthetic oil stands up better against dilution and in this way maintains it viscosity and flash point levels.

This problem is another reason why many of us use catch cans to help catch the vapors that are formed. I get 2-3 ounces out of my catch can every 90 days. It smells strongly of gas. I would hate to think what the contents would look like if I were using conventional or blended oil.

If a person is not one to tax their engine hard and doesn't drive alot, then blended oil is probably going to work out fine. But those of us that give our engines a real good workout, then Full Synthetic is the way to go.
 
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Check out @Oreo, post on his Black Stone Analysis here
 
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