I installed a K&N drop in filter today and it has made a pretty significant difference in the performance. More than I expected and this is my 3rd boosted car now. I think the problem is the sport uses the same airbox and air filter as the 2.0L I-4 engine. The engine sounds louder, noticeable louder which at first made me think I didnt clasp the air filter box properly all the way. I think this should be the first mod everyone does, the butt dyno was very surprised.
Engine needs to breath!
1 - 20 of 115 Posts
Joined
·
1,156 Posts
link to part please?
I also went with the AFE Dry - should arrive this weekend.
I think I ordered the right part - AFE 31-10260
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GA8XSU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hoping I see mild improvements in sound and performance...
I think I ordered the right part - AFE 31-10260
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GA8XSU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hoping I see mild improvements in sound and performance...
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
I'm debating between the AFE dry and oiled. From the reviews and tests I've been reading, AFE had a clear quality/filtration advantage over the K&N. The Oiled AFE has a filtration advantage over the dry, but it's oiled. I'm torn.
I wish the proguard 7 was available for the fusion. That one seems to be the best all around performer in airflow/capacity/filtration.
I wish the proguard 7 was available for the fusion. That one seems to be the best all around performer in airflow/capacity/filtration.
Joined
·
100 Posts
I was told by Roush that a CAI intake will be available early next year for the sport - If that is the case I would just go with a dry for now and then get the full CAI - I am a fan of AFE as I have a Magnum CAI on our BMW - but I also have a Roush CAI on my F150 2.7 and it is loud as you really hear the turbo whine~~~ but either dry filter will be better than stock -
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
The K&N usually has the best airflow, but by far the worst filtration. The general consensus of the tests I've seen is that higher airflow=less filtration. The one exception appeared to be the proguard 7, which had great #s accross the board. Very slightly less airflow, but significantly better filtration. Both AFE dry and 5 series oiled had similar airflow, but better filtration. I think the 5 had the slight edge, but barely. The main benefit to the AFE Pro 5r had over the Pro dry S is its ability to retain its filtration performance after multiple washes.
A properly oiled filter will not be splashing oil into the rest of the intake system. The only time that ive ever heard of that happening was with people who had no idea how much oil to put on the filter after washing it so they just doused it. Ive used K&N on all 3 of my boosted cars now with no problems.
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
That would also be an issue in NA cars if it were in fact an issue.
Yup. The amount of air flowing through a filter on a NA engine with 325HP compared to a Turbo engine at 325HP would be nearly identical with the same intake system and design. It doesnt matter if its the engine sucking in the air directly or the turbo sucking in the air before the engine, both are sucking in the same amount of air at the same rate required to make 325HP.
Joined
·
331 Posts
Normally I would agree, though most 325 HP NA engines have a considerably larger air filter with more total volume of air capable of pushing through it. If you put the FuSpo filter on a 325 HP engine, all of the sudden it's not a 325 HP engine anymore - too restricted on the intake side. The turbo engine can get around it because it has the ability to force the air through the smaller filter... If the filter is "properly" oiled, it may not cause any issues, but I have seen cases where MAF and MAP sensors go toast from an oiled filter. Personally, I still choose to stay away from them.
Stupidly easy to do.
Step 1. Buy air filter
Step 2. Open hood
Step 3. Disconnect MAF sensor from side of air box.
Step 4. Unlatch 2 clips on the right side of air box
Step 5. Lift open air box
Step 6. Remove old filter, replace with new filter.
Step 7. Repeat steps 2-5 in reverse order.
Step 8. Profit.
An oiled filter has oil on it that is used to catch dirt and other fine particles. A dry filter doesnt.
Sounds great. Sounds like there are pros and cons to each of dry and oiled. I assume oiled gets a little messier? I think this is something I'm willing to take a stab at.
Joined
·
331 Posts
Oiled filters are a bit messier overall, yes, though as said they do also capture more fine particles than the dry filters do. For me and the FuSpo specifically, I worry that the 2.7L TT using the same airbox as a 1.5L T may cause some issues in pulling oil out of the filter and into the intake runners due to the total volume of air that has to be pulled for the 2.7L creating a decent vacuum on the intake side.
Generally speaking, these are considered "lifetime" filters. When they get dirty, you pull them out, clean them, and put them back in place. With the oiled filters, you pull them out, clean them, re-oil them, and reinstall them.
No problem. Oiled filters are made with more "space" between the meshes as they use oil to trap the dirt so they generally flow a little better. Dry filters will have less space as they rely more on the material mesh of the filter to catch debris. The difference in HP is minimal, also oiled is not messy, its a very fine amount of oil, sorta like a damp air filter. You wouldnt for example be able to shake it and have oil fling off. The K&N oil filters are washable/reusable and you generally will clean them every 5-10K miles. The dry ones might be washable, im not sure.
1 - 20 of 115 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!