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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Took my car in to get all fluids changed.
The service writer of not asked my why I wanted to do it. Told him it's new and wanted to get the break in fluids out and it was done.
2 things surprised me.
1, paperwork says transmission took 16qts. Is that because of the transmission cooler? Or is it normal that that much oil is needed.
2, I asked for Full Synthetic Works and appears they put in Synthetic Blend. Paperwork says XO-5w30-BSP GF-5.
I will pull out my last oil change statement later and see what was put in. (Was at a different dealer).

Main question? Should I care about not having Full Synthetic for one oil change, or should I make a big deal about it. If I leave it is, will only leave it in for 3kmiles, saying it will be short lived. But I do want to make a stink of it for the point being I asked for Full Synthetic and didn't get it. I emailed them my requested work ahead of time, so I have proof I asked for Full Synthetic.

Trans - $184
Diff - $44
PTU - $65
Works/Engine - $52 (also giveaway not full synthetic)

I had them take samples of the 4 fluid to send out for testing (yup, I am that guy). But no hurry to do so. Want to look at the fluids first. Curious to know how bad/good they look. Will take pictures and share.
Car has ~10,600 miles.

I also had a few warranty items looked at.

Pop sound coming from speakers when turning on the car. Didn't happen often but sounded like a rock hit the windshield.
They found the ACM was bad and replaced it.

Passenger side door handle doesn't always work. They found the battery is good, but is sitting at a low voltage threshold where not needed electrical items are disabled to save battery power. They said this was a common issue in 19 and newer fusions as they have more modules then previous model years. I mentioned it also occurs when the car is on and standing still. Suggested it could also be my accessories and said that the alternator does not turn on to charge the battery until above 12mph and may need to be driven more to keep it working. Saying engine on doesn't help if not moving. Only have a dash cam when parked. BUT had it unplugged when I dropped off the car. Big issue I have with this, is that it occurs after driving a few miles and with out the car alerting the app of it being in power saving mode. I asked about getting an AGM battery and they said that it should work in my car (per their electrical tech, even though it doesn't have a battery support module like hybrids do that come with AGM batteries) , but they can't put anything in that isn't recommended by Ford.

They weren't able to repeat the issue of sloshing water sounds coming from behind the dash. Doesn't seem to occur often enough. Just annoyed when it happens.
 
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sloshing is usually a sign of low coolant.
 
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As @Skipe, mentioned. the sloshing sound is a sign of low coolant level. Remedy, fill coolant reservoir to about an inch of above the max line. Start car and get the car up to normal temp (mid line on the temp gauge). You want the t-stat to open so that you have full circulation. Then, turn the cabin heat on. Let the car run for about 10 minutes. I know this hard to do in the summer, but it lets the coolant circulate through out the engine and gets all the air out. This process should get the issue fixed. Once this process is complete, let the car sit until the engine cools completely. Check you coolant level. If the level is below the Max Line, refill to the Max Line.

Running the Synthetic Blend for 5000k is not going to do any harm. As long as they did not charge you for it, not a big deal. If they had charged you for it, then I would be dancing on their desk. Your choice on going back and making them redo it. It is amazing what these service writers will do, no matter what you ask. Most of the time they just go to their computer, enter your VIN and whatever pops up on their screen for your oil change, that is what they select. This is the reason I do not use any of my FORD dealerships around here. They only want to do what the book tells them to do. You are lucky they were able to do the PTU and rear diff changes. I had to show my local dealer where the drain and fill holes were for the PTU. They would not touch the rear diff. According to them, their "book" tells them they have to drop the whole rear end to do that fluid change. A raised the "BS" Flag on that never have taken my car back.

I have found a local mechanic shop with some good techs that do whatever I ask them to do. In fact most of them are hot rod guys and love working on my car especially if I am doing some kind of modifications.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
sloshing is usually a sign of low coolant.
I think the coolant level is slightly above the max line... will have to check. I don't think it's changed since I bought the car.
 

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I think the coolant level is slightly above the max line... will have to check. I don't think it's changed since I bought the car.
What happened with mine when I had this problem is that mine showed to filled to the Max. But, when I turned on the cabin heat, the reservoir level would drop down to half fill level. This takes the fluid level below some the piping in the reservoir level. Now, when you stop the engine and the engine starts to cool, the pressure reduces and lets the coolant start to flow back in to the reservoir from the lower hose. In turn, the air in the tank is pushed back into the engine by the uncovered upper hose openings. So, it is very important when you are trying to get the air out of the system that there is enough fluid in the tank, so that when the pressure drops that the fluid level never drops below the hose openings.
 
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Took my car in to get all fluids changed.
The service writer of not asked my why I wanted to do it. Told him it's new and wanted to get the break in fluids out and it was done.
2 things surprised me.
1, paperwork says transmission took 16qts. Is that because of the transmission cooler? Or is it normal that that much oil is needed.
2, I asked for Full Synthetic Works and appears they put in Synthetic Blend. Paperwork says XO-5w30-BSP GF-5.
I will pull out my last oil change statement later and see what was put in. (Was at a different dealer).

Main question? Should I care about not having Full Synthetic for one oil change, or should I make a big deal about it. If I leave it is, will only leave it in for 3kmiles, saying it will be short lived. But I do want to make a stink of it for the point being I asked for Full Synthetic and didn't get it. I emailed them my requested work ahead of time, so I have proof I asked for Full Synthetic.

Trans - $184
Diff - $44
PTU - $65
Works/Engine - $52 (also giveaway not full synthetic)

I had them take samples of the 4 fluid to send out for testing (yup, I am that guy). But no hurry to do so. Want to look at the fluids first. Curious to know how bad/good they look. Will take pictures and share.
Car has ~10,600 miles.

I also had a few warranty items looked at.

Pop sound coming from speakers when turning on the car. Didn't happen often but sounded like a rock hit the windshield.
They found the ACM was bad and replaced it.

Passenger side door handle doesn't always work. They found the battery is good, but is sitting at a low voltage threshold where not needed electrical items are disabled to save battery power. They said this was a common issue in 19 and newer fusions as they have more modules then previous model years. I mentioned it also occurs when the car is on and standing still. Suggested it could also be my accessories and said that the alternator does not turn on to charge the battery until above 12mph and may need to be driven more to keep it working. Saying engine on doesn't help if not moving. Only have a dash cam when parked. BUT had it unplugged when I dropped off the car. Big issue I have with this, is that it occurs after driving a few miles and with out the car alerting the app of it being in power saving mode. I asked about getting an AGM battery and they said that it should work in my car (per their electrical tech, even though it doesn't have a battery support module like hybrids do that come with AGM batteries) , but they can't put anything in that isn't recommended by Ford.

They weren't able to repeat the issue of sloshing water sounds coming from behind the dash. Doesn't seem to occur often enough. Just annoyed when it happens.
Super wierd the alternator isn't supposed to turn on until 12 mph. I'm pretty sure I've left her in accessories mode for a long long while with music playing and all the works going, until I get the "turn the car on now to recharge battery" message.

I assume it must be a lie or the car will engage the alternator is the battery threshold is low.
 

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Pop sound coming from speakers when turning on the car. Didn't happen often but sounded like a rock hit the windshield.
They found the ACM was bad and replaced it.
I've have this on my 19 as well, it almost sounds like an electrical short, like a loud "snap". So that's coming from the speaker? How often was your doing this? Mine only did it maybe once a month or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've have this on my 19 as well, it almost sounds like an electrical short, like a loud "snap". So that's coming from the speaker? How often was your doing this? Mine only did it maybe once a month or so.
It was completely random. Sometimes a few times a week, but then may not hear it for 2 or 3 weeks. Problem is, with the pandemic I end up not driving the car as often and was really unable to tell how bad it was. But, during testing they found a problem with the audio control module. Not sure how easy it was to find, but sounded like they had to go an extra step as I am not sure if they ever heard the pop/snap sound.
This is the 2nd dealer I have taken the car to, to look at it. The 1st one didn't seem to actually do anything. Or at least the 1st dealer didn't tell me what they did to troubleshoot the problem and gave it back without follow up information.
I told the 2nd dealer that I thought it could be coming from the speakers before I dropped it off via email and they copied/pasted my comments into the notes they gave the tech. (It included the work I wanted done, and also included paragraphs on 4 issues I wanted them to look at, one being the snap/pop sound. My wife told me I already did all their work for them) I don't remember how much detail I gave the 1st dealer but didn't get the impression they wrote much of what I said down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Super wierd the alternator isn't supposed to turn on until 12 mph. I'm pretty sure I've left her in accessories mode for a long long while with music playing and all the works going, until I get the "turn the car on now to recharge battery" message.

I assume it must be a lie or the car will engage the alternator is the battery threshold is low.

I agree. Does seem odd. But that was their explanation when I told them the issue can also occur when the car running (and touching passenger door handle doesn't unlock door). So far I believe them on the cause, but not sure on the details. Only complaint here, is that they blamed my car accessories to at least partially be causing the low battery to disable the door handle module (to save power, but not saying that are wrong). I say this because I never received a low power alert to the Ford Pass app, and can occur after driving to the store (~20 min? they told me would take much longer to charge the car) .
Starting to think I should check the volts before I drive it each time and also test the door handle. But it would be hard for me to remember to do that each time I drive it.
 
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I tune my Alternator, and have never seen anything about not charging till 12 MPH. I'll look again, but I'm not believing it. Being I have a volt gauge in my dash, I know what the system is doing all the time.
 

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I tune my Alternator, and have never seen anything about not charging till 12 MPH. I'll look again, but I'm not believing it. Being I have a volt gauge in my dash, I know what the system is doing all the time.
I wonder if that was just bad advice they gave because the BMS is going to shut down the alternator under a lot of conditions (when the battery is full and the alternator output isn't needed). But yeah like you, I'd never heard anything about 12mph being special as far as the alternator is concerned. I'd be really surprised if that speed has anything to do with enabling the alternator.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I wonder if that was just bad advice they gave because the BMS is going to shut down the alternator under a lot of conditions (when the battery is full and the alternator output isn't needed). But yeah like you, I'd never heard anything about 12mph being special as far as the alternator is concerned. I'd be really surprised if that speed has anything to do with enabling the alternator.
It has been a while since I checked, and I don't even remember how I last did... But I thought when the car was running, battery reported over 14 volts. I just don't remember if i was driving or not, and keep forgetting to see if my OBDII Bluetooth dongle reports parked, and driving voltages to confirm.

Edit... I also thought they told me that only hybrids had the BMS module? Am I confusing it with something else they may have mentioned. Said it didn't have the battery management module?.... If a vehicle has one, they said it requires an AGM battery?...
 
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It has been a while since I checked, and I don't even remember how I last did... But I thought when the car was running, battery reported over 14 volts. I just don't remember if i was driving or not, and keep forgetting to see if my OBDII Bluetooth dongle reports parked, and driving voltages to confirm.

Edit... I also thought they told me that only hybrids had the BMS module? Am I confusing it with something else they may have mentioned. Said it didn't have the battery management module?.... If a vehicle has one, they said it requires an AGM battery?...
Hi @BlueDust !

If you data log your Torque Source and Voltage PIDs together, you can match the time stamps. If you're getting an Idle torque source you're not driving, so you can match that with the Voltage at the same timestamp and know what's going on there, if that helps. That's how I do that stuff.

BMS is in all these (actually all Gen2 Fusions period, I think). It's not part of the Hybrid system, that's a separate battery and electronics package.

You may have seen references to the AGM battery type in connection with AGM because there's a setting in As-Built data configuration that specifies battery type so the BMS can properly manage battery charge maintenance. Battery chemistry varies by type, so the charging cycle, charge amperages, and so on vary depending on battery type. That's why the BMS needs to know that. But the BMS gets used on any battery type unless you just flat disable the BMS in the As-Built data.

I hope this helps! 🙂
 
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It has been a while since I checked, and I don't even remember how I last did... But I thought when the car was running, battery reported over 14 volts. I just don't remember if i was driving or not, and keep forgetting to see if my OBDII Bluetooth dongle reports parked, and driving voltages to confirm.

Edit... I also thought they told me that only hybrids had the BMS module? Am I confusing it with something else they may have mentioned. Said it didn't have the battery management module?.... If a vehicle has one, they said it requires an AGM battery?...
Was checking battery health with Forscan a few days ago and the car definitely runs around 14 volts when on, as opposed to 12ish volts when off from the battery. The jump was immediate when the car was started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What happened with mine when I had this problem is that mine showed to filled to the Max. But, when I turned on the cabin heat, the reservoir level would drop down to half fill level. This takes the fluid level below some the piping in the reservoir level. Now, when you stop the engine and the engine starts to cool, the pressure reduces and lets the coolant start to flow back in to the reservoir from the lower hose. In turn, the air in the tank is pushed back into the engine by the uncovered upper hose openings. So, it is very important when you are trying to get the air out of the system that there is enough fluid in the tank, so that when the pressure drops that the fluid level never drops below the hose openings.
Just re read your comment... I forgot to turn the heat on. I only had the car warmed up (after a short drive/didn't idle it) when I checked the coolant level. Will try again later. 😂
View attachment 28600
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My car came back from the dealer with problems... (will mention the other(s) later). Even though I don't think they are big deals, as in car will run without, they still need to be fixed, and one in particular is driving me nuts. The fan behind Sinc screen... I assume there is a fan that turns on as needed to cool it off once it heats up... When it kicks on it can work just fan and have a wind blowing sound. Like a computer fan. Randomly it will get louder and sound like it is lose or rubbing on something. Also like a computer fan when I mess up putting a computer back together. Generally the fan wasn't tightened down all the way or a wire is touching the fan (and easily fixed). Dealer wants the car for multiple days to diagnose as they don't know what it could be (sent them videos of the sound). To me it seems obvious, but have never taken the dash apart before. Any feedback is welcome. I will also add a video of the sound. The loudness of the noise can be variable, but as I generally listen to the car at volume 6, I noticed I have to turn it to 10 before I can no longer distinguish the sound from the music. And I can no longer drive the car with the radio off when it occurs (it is random, but frequent, and can go on for long periods of time before stopping, but always starts again a bit later).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What is the best way to share videos? I tried to upload a video to Youtube, but it says pending. I guess this may take awhile...
Trying to share a video so you guys can hear the buzzing from what I believe is the fan.... When it stops, you can hear the fan spin up faster, and the blowing air/wind sound starts, but I wasn't able to upload more then one video sharing that with my phone. Upload button is no longer active.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
See if it works... Camera moved a lot to show all fans are off. Including cooled seats.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Try this... YouTube will not allow me to upload any more videos. (Upload button is now grayed out. No idea why the video uploaded and worked for about 20 minutes and now doesn't)
 
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