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Discussion Starter #1
Had the FuSpo for about 6 months now, and I'm beginning to have qualms with the drivetrain. One of my biggest gripes, is that this twin turbo V6 has as much power as a V8, yet the transmission is mapped as though it's a 1.5 ecoboost with no power. Sometimes it revs to 4500 rpms in D mode under light throttle before shifting 1-2 or 2-3. I sometimes back off the throttle trying to intentionally make it shift up. When the engine is cold I'm forced to put it in sport and use the paddles to keep the RPMs low to wait for oil to warm, so I can keep up with traffic but keep the engine from revving to 5000. Even though peak torque is 3500 it flies right past that for no reason and i'm not even using 40% of the throttle. That makes no sense to me.

I'm completely satisfied with the power and don't really feel like I need anything more out of it. I'm looking for a tune that adjusts the transmission to shift more like a towncar or F150... where it shifts early and uses the endless grunt of the engine to push the car along in traffic. Obviously, I enjoy flooring it as well, and I would hope that the tune would improve the top end shifts as well, but I'm really more interested in the behavior in the mundane central Florida traffic.I think it really gives the car more character to feel that 2750rpm throaty engine shift and still feeling that torquey push in the back of your kidneys and watching the speedo numbers climb.

Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Honestly, after reading this forum, it seems like I should just email one of the tuning factories and ask, but figured I'd get your thoughts before I did. Much appreciated!
 
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Honestly, the transmission programming was the biggest reason I tuned the car. The extra power is nice, but day to day the major improvement is in how much better transmissions behaves. Its completely night and day - it really should have been programmed like this from the factory. If you aren't looking to push the engine, you can always request a conservative tune and still get the improved transmission parameters.

Another thing you might try if you aren't ready to jump straight to a tune is resetting the computer. My understanding is the transmission learns over time - perhaps if you reset and start over it will shift more favorably? Just a thought.
 

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I agree with @19sport on this. I think you might just want to ask for a tune that basically just tunes the transmission the way you want it (be prepared to explain to the tuner what you want) and just ask them not to touch the Engine settings at all. That's a whole separate area of the PCM controls so they can absolutely leave that alone if you don't want to mess with that at all. Just be prepared to describe what you're looking for, as far as the shifting, when you make your request to the tuner.

Alternatively, HP Tuners would be a great way to do this too but I'll just say the transmission settings are......numerous. So if you go that route, be prepared for that. But on the good side you can easily just tweak exactly what you want if you go that way.
 

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Theres a reason for the complex mapping of the transmission and it makes its decisions based off more than 30 independent factors from pedal position to temperature. A lot of the reason this car is not made to "grunt along" like a v8 is they are very, very prone to low speed pre ignition. If you change to a early shifting "gas saver" type tune, in my opinion you're trying to extend the life of the transmission by reducing the life of the motor. Dont cut your nose off to spite your face. :) it's like when people run 87 octane I never understood it, it even recommends in the manual to use premium, if you can't afford the gas for premium you probably can't afford the car. (Not you just saying in general)
The best change I made in my tune so far (for usefulness) is I made it so that it shifts off my set limiter even when I'm in paddle manual shift mode. So I can downshift with a paddle real quick and floor it and not worry about trying to upshot.
There's a lot things I've adjusted in my transmission tuning now (probably 20 or so parameters) I was going to upload the stock tune to see how different it is I might do that tomorrow
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Definitely not trying to save (on) gas. I used to put premium in my 4cyl Accord; the FFS gets nothing less. I’m a lead foot but I came from a 5spd standard where I could shift when I want and drive with the torque. I think the lead foot is the cause of the trans shifting so high, but paddle shift it in third at 25mph and mash it and it hauls ass. Feeling the turbos kick in is fun too. Using 75% of the throttle at 2500 rpms should not be a sinful act that turns it into a NASCAR wannabe. No reason it needs to be shifting at near redline to use 50% of its power.

All I want is it for it to use its turbos rather than redlining in order to accelerate at mid throttle.
 
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Definitely not trying to save (on) gas. I used to put premium in my 4cyl Accord; the FFS gets nothing less. I’m a lead foot but I came from a 5spd standard where I could shift when I want and drive with the torque. I think the lead foot is the cause of the trans shifting so high, but paddle shift it in third at 25mph and mash it and it hauls ass. Feeling the turbos kick in is fun too. Using 75% of the throttle at 2500 rpms should not be a sinful act that turns it into a NASCAR wannabe. No reason it needs to be shifting at near redline to use 50% of its power.

All I want is it for it to use its turbos rather than redlining in order to accelerate at mid throttle.
I've certainly noticed the phenomena you've observed. Sometimes I'll hit the throttle and get tossed back in my seat and have to wrestle the car a little from the awesome torque generated.

Other times, I'll hit the pedal the exact same way and it'll refuse to downshift, just bring up the RPM until eventually you can begin feeling the torque from the turbos, then the next shift up it feels faster! Its totally wierd.

If my car was not warrantied I would get a tune immediately.
 

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Definitely not trying to save (on) gas. I used to put premium in my 4cyl Accord; the FFS gets nothing less. I’m a lead foot but I came from a 5spd standard where I could shift when I want and drive with the torque. I think the lead foot is the cause of the trans shifting so high, but paddle shift it in third at 25mph and mash it and it hauls ass. Feeling the turbos kick in is fun too. Using 75% of the throttle at 2500 rpms should not be a sinful act that turns it into a NASCAR wannabe. No reason it needs to be shifting at near redline to use 50% of its power.

All I want is it for it to use its turbos rather than redlining in order to accelerate at mid throttle.
Part of the problem I think @VelocityBrew was getting at, though, is that the turbos are part of the reason why you get LSPI more easily at low engine speeds. It's all that extra boost. The more pressure you have, in a low-speed environment, the more prone you are to that. LSPI is no joke. It only takes one event to completely destroy an engine. That's not something you want to take a chance on. Tuners rev the engines higher because it's fun, but they also do it because it's better for the engines than producing that much power down really low. By that I mean, everything is fine when the engine isn't turning fast, until suddenly it isn't. And with LSPI, that's a really bad day for you.
 

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Part of the problem I think @VelocityBrew was getting at, though, is that the turbos are part of the reason why you get LSPI more easily at low engine speeds. It's all that extra boost. The more pressure you have, in a low-speed environment, the more prone you are to that. LSPI is no joke. It only takes one event to completely destroy an engine. That's not something you want to take a chance on. Tuners rev the engines higher because it's fun, but they also do it because it's better for the engines than producing that much power down really low. By that I mean, everything is fine when the engine isn't turning fast, until suddenly it isn't. And with LSPI, that's a really bad day for you.
Yeah, with the amount of power these engines produce, I could easily see a rod snapping or hole being blown out of the cylinder wall from a severe preignition event.
 

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If it's holding gears because it's cold, you shouldn't be driving it. That's terrible for it. Let it get up to temp before you hit the highway.
 

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If it's holding gears because it's cold, you shouldn't be driving it. That's terrible for it. Let it get up to temp before you hit the highway.
Modern cars don't need to be warmed up before driving. Just get in and go; simply take it easy until it's warm.

My car definitely does not rev high in D when cold (unless I put it into Sport mode, which, of course, I don't).
 

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Hi gang. It is correct that modern cars do not need to be "warmed up" like in the old days. However, they do need to be driven easy until the engine and fluids are up to operating temperatures, as LeVel stated.

And as the Owners Manual states (paraphrasing): Start the car, wait until the rpm's begin to visibly drop from the cold start high, then drive easy until the engine is fully warm. A smart way to do it, is not drive anywhere near "hard" for at least several minutes of driving. This will vary by ambient air temperatures, of course.

So in my case, during this very cold weather, I get in and start the car immediately, then put on my seat belt, choose my music, and do whatever other little things I may need to do before driving away, maybe 20 seconds later. I don't recall ever using the remote starter, other than testing to be sure it operated correctly when I first picked up my car. ;)

Good luck. :)
 

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I have a practice of starting my car and letting it idle until the RPM drops from 1200 to 600. I am also lucky that my drive to the interstate on-ramp is about 6 blocks which allows for temps to get up to operating temp.
 
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H9i gang. It is correct that modern cars do not need to be "warmed up" like in the old days. However, they do need to be driven easy until the engine and fluids are up to operating temperatures, as LeVel stated.

And as the Owners Manual states (paraphrasing): Start the car, wait until the rpm's begin to visibly drop from the cold start high, then drive easy until the engine is fully warm. A smart way to do it, is not drive anywhere near "hard" for at least several minutes of driving. This will vary by ambient air temperatures, of course.

So in my case, during this very cold weather, I get in and start the car immediately, then put on my seat belt, choose my music, and do whatever other little things I may need to do before driving away, maybe 20 seconds later. I don't recall ever using the remote starter, other than testing to be sure it operated correctly when I first picked up my car. ;)

Good luck. :)
I use my remote start all the time. Nice to get the car all toasty before I'm out. As my worknight is finishing, I remote start my car 5-10 minutes before I leave depending on how cold it is and then hop in with the car already mostly warm. Remote start is one of my favorite features of the car.
 

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While it can vary depending on specific vehicle & ambient temperature, my normal rule of thumb is to drive an easy 5 miles before hitting it hard. This allows the oil temperature to reach normal operating temperature. I care much more about oil temperature than coolant temperature.
 

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I use my remote start all the time. Nice to get the car all toasty before I'm out. As my worknight is finishing, I remote start my car 5-10 minutes before I leave depending on how cold it is and then hop in with the car already mostly warm. Remote start is one of my favorite features of the car.
Hi DAA. Oh yes, I certainly have nothing against the remote start. It's just in my particular case, I never know when to actually start the car, because my wife will find a dozen last second things to do before she's ready to leave. So I would be remote starting it several times before she finally makes her sweet little way out the door. ;)
 

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Hi DAA. Oh yes, I certainly have nothing against the remote start. It's just in my particular case, I never know when to actually start the car, because my wife will find a dozen last second things to do before she's ready to leave. So I would be remote starting it several times before she finally makes her sweet little way out the door. ;)
This is very accurate. Unfortunately I have found the exact same problem with my SO. 🙄
 
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