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Discussion Starter #1
As the title says, my 2017's A/C stopped working last week. Anyone have experience troubleshooting root cause on A/C failures? I'm ashamed to admit I couldn't even identify which accessory was the compressor when looking down at the belts with the hood open. I was trying to confirm if the clutch was engaging or not.

The failure was odd to me - it was blowing cold one day, then just stopped working. I swear it had one last moment when I went full throttle from a stop and it blew cold air one more time then stopped again and never cooled after that - all within 24 hours of me noticing it wasn't working right.

I figure it's either a large refrigerant leak or a wiring/sensor failure not engaging the compressor when it should.

Any ideas or opinions?

Thanks,
GFunk
 

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Are there any codes when you scan the car? Many smaller issues prevent the A/C from working, so may not necessarily be an issue directly with the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hadn't checked that yet, I assumed no dash alarms equals no codes. I'll plug in the Bluetooth OBD2 today and check.
 

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Did you use a basic scanner, or something more advanced that supports the Ford-specific networks (like the OBDLink MX, a modified ELM327 adapter, or one of those expensive scan tools)? If there's a code it'll most likely be a silent DTC in a non-OBDII module.

Does the compressor cycle on or off at all? If the refrigerant is low car A/C compressoes they typically cycle on then quickly off every few seconds. If it's not cycling at all and just not working, likely there is a DTC for some sort of semi-related fault.
 

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Oh no. Well here’s my air conditioner experience. I have a 2018 FFS. The evaporator failed, leaked out, and had to be replaced at 8500 miles. Really disappointed with that. If it is out of warranty you’re talking an easy $1500 to $2000 repair. They have to take the whole dash apart and even take out the front two seats. That made me cringe because that stuff never goes back in the way it came out. After the dealer warranty repair, I spent a little time finding trim pieces that were not snapped back in properly. I’ll give them a break because it’s a big job but still it erodes my trust in Ford. Hope your issue is not what I went through.
 

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Heck, I'm about to take my FFS in for the fourth time in two years because the A/C stops blowing cold within 5 months of each repair. I love the car, but no A/C in 100 degree weather is not cool (pun intended).
 

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Coolant topped off? Long time ago I had a shop put long tube headers on my 99 mustang GT and I told them to move the AC line bc I read the new LTs would sit against the line and burn through it within minutes. I pick up the car 5 minutes down the road the AC goes out. That was right about the time I swore id do all work to my cars even if it was an engine teardown because no one cares about anyone's else's stuff.
 

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Any updates? How's it so far?

Coolant topped off? Long time ago I had a shop put long tube headers on my 99 mustang GT and I told them to move the AC line bc I read the new LTs would sit against the line and burn through it within minutes. I pick up the car 5 minutes down the road the AC goes out. That was right about the time I swore id do all work to my cars even if it was an engine teardown because no one cares about anyone's else's stuff.
From my experience topping up the coolant helps
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's been a while but - took it to the dealer and they confirmed the signal was getting to the compressor but it wasn't engaging. They ended up replacing the compressor assembly entirely and everything's been working fine since. I asked why not just replace the clutch or solenoid or whatever might've failed and they responded that usually those don't fail this young and whatever caused the symptom may be a larger problem with the assembly so safest bet is to replace it entirely and get the most longevity.

It wasn't too hard on the wallet so I got it done and have been happy ever since. The big challenge was the coolant used in our cars - R-1234. None of my local shops had the tools to work on it so I had to go to the dealer just to diagnose, let along repair.
 

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It's been a while but - took it to the dealer and they confirmed the signal was getting to the compressor but it wasn't engaging. They ended up replacing the compressor assembly entirely and everything's been working fine since. I asked why not just replace the clutch or solenoid or whatever might've failed and they responded that usually those don't fail this young and whatever caused the symptom may be a larger problem with the assembly so safest bet is to replace it entirely and get the most longevity.

It wasn't too hard on the wallet so I got it done and have been happy ever since. The big challenge was the coolant used in our cars - R-1234. None of my local shops had the tools to work on it so I had to go to the dealer just to diagnose, let along repair.
That's interesting. I had to look that up because I thought maybe it was a typo and you meant R-134. No, it's really R-1234. I'd never heard of that before; that's the very first I've heard of R-1234.
 

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I believe you will find this is the R134 replacement for automobiles.
 
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Oh no. Well here’s my air conditioner experience. I have a 2018 FFS. The evaporator failed, leaked out, and had to be replaced at 8500 miles. Really disappointed with that. If it is out of warranty you’re talking an easy $1500 to $2000 repair. They have to take the whole dash apart and even take out the front two seats. That made me cringe because that stuff never goes back in the way it came out. After the dealer warranty repair, I spent a little time finding trim pieces that were not snapped back in properly. I’ll give them a break because it’s a big job but still it erodes my trust in Ford. Hope your issue is not what I went through.

oof. $1500-$2000. I felt that
 

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As the title says, my 2017's A/C stopped working last week. Anyone have experience troubleshooting root cause on A/C failures? I'm ashamed to admit I couldn't even identify which accessory was the compressor when looking down at the belts with the hood open. I was trying to confirm if the clutch was engaging or not.

The failure was odd to me - it was blowing cold one day, then just stopped working. I swear it had one last moment when I went full throttle from a stop and it blew cold air one more time then stopped again and never cooled after that - all within 24 hours of me noticing it wasn't working right.

I figure it's either a large refrigerant leak or aircon servicing failure not engaging the compressor when it should.

Any ideas or opinions?

Thanks,
GFunk

Try topping up the coolant man. Seems straightforward.
 
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