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So I just order an AEM drop in filter.. I'll go get it today , but I still have doubt about it and can still cancel my order....
is it really better than the motorcraft oem filter ??

I was going for aFe prodry but the guy couldn't order it and the AEM cost me 60$ vs 110 for the aFe
 

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So I just order an AEM drop in filter.. I'll go get it today , but I still have doubt about it and can still cancel my order....
is it really better than the motorcraft oem filter ??

I was going for aFe prodry but the guy couldn't order it and the AEM cost me 60$ vs 110 for the aFe
Don't think anyone has dynod any filters. Not even sure if anyone has run back to back 1/4 mile.
 

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I remember reading something a while back about a clean paper filter flowing significantly more than even a slightly dirty K&N. Also the oil in the filter causing problems with the MAF sensors and such. I know this does not necessarily apply here, but unless its a new intake I can't justify spending the money on just a filter anymore. I used to dyno my cars before and after mods (performance shop friends) and rarely saw any gain from just a filter, or even an intake in some cases. It depends on the factory design, and several factors of course.
 

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Oreo, that was great testing methodology. I was going to do the same on my Taurus SHO but I couldn't find a spare airbox to drill and scrapped the project. That was around 2016 or early 2017. Looking at your results using the Donaldson device, it seems the delta of 7.5 inH20 translates to roughly a 0.27 psi reduction in restriction running without the airbox, which isn't all that much at all. Based on those results, I'd keep the stock box and stock paper filter, and maybe run the K&N or AFE for the track to get that possible 1-3 hp gain.
 
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