[DAS]

Hey DAS
Wondering if you have the parts numbers by any chance?
And do you have a video with soundclip?
Thanks

Magnaflow Tru-x resonator 11378:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...kbxEW_hp7EkD4NBFQXEGtBe-56AdaZZwaAptqEALw_wcB

Two Magnaflow 10415 round perfomance mufflers:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-10415/

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[DAS]

The stock turbos max out at 43-44 lb/min with a tune, so the stock cats/piping aren't a restriction. I wouldn't use the paddles to up-shift because it is a lot slower than letting the ECU do its thing. This isn't a twin-clutch automated manual tuned by Michael Schumacher. It's a transmission designed for soccer mom Traverses and Explorers also doing double duty on some performance models.


The aftermarket FMIC is about the only mod I'd recommend, as the stock FMIC has a temp rise of about 100F over ambient at full boost. Any reduction would help as cooler air is more dense. It's not just about the timing, as I can still run about 17* advance at WOT with a lot of boost using the right fuel.



To me, the aftermarket exhaust systems for GTDI/Ecoboost sound like a ricer fart can mod with a diesel pickup truck turbo wind-down, something a high schooler would be interested in. The stock exhaust system is just quiet from the outside. The fake engine noise isn't my favorite but there's no drone and it is quiet. I've messed with catbacks and downpipes for over 20 years and the lesson I learned is to just stick with stock, especially as I got older.

Straight line auto is better. On the track or spirited street driving the paddles are a HUGE gain. It's not even close. It did take me a little while to learn it as it's different then a real manual.
With your silent motor and lack of practice it would be pointless.

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[Kingsize]

@metroplex, @DAS, and @EddieEcoBoost, thanks for the advice. I think what I’m getting out of your posts is:

1. Tune
2. FMIC
3. Bigger turbos
4. Then maybe it’s worth 3” DPs

Close?

Thanks again.

 

[EddieEcoBoost]

Don't get me wrong im sure there are still some gains to be had installing the aftermarket Downpipes on our stock turbos after tune and FMIC - while the peak to peak gains will be small, im sure the "area under the curve" gains are more substantial. In some situations it will also help your turbos spool to build boost quicker. The only question is it worth the cost to you??

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[DAS]

The down pipes and turbos aren't worth it to me, but I've done just about everything else. I'm not looking to beat everyone at the drag strip just have a fun &fast car.

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[ArthurUSCG]

If you look at twinforce_fusion's videos, the boost/hp came in 5-700 rpm sooner. I think he was at full boost by 2k rpms. That quicker reaction is awesome and great for autocross.

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[EddieEcoBoost]

If you look at twinforce_fusion's videos, the boost/hp came in 5-700 rpm sooner. I think he was at full boost by 2k rpms. That quicker reaction is awesome and great for autocross.

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Not to mention better launches for drag strip

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[First_fordever]

Thanks for the links!

 

[Mike Alesi]

As far as taking orders Im ready but I will not be able to get these built and shipped out before probably mid January as I still need to build a fixture to copy the downpipes.


BTW removing the stock downpipes is a HUGE PITA!!!!! I would not even attempt to do these without a lift and lots of special mechanics tools. I would highly recommend having a shop do the install.

Are these still up for grabs?

 

[VelocityBrew]

Bump for one of the the most quality pieces of hardware I've ordered, for cars or otherwise. They arrived well before the time estimated, fit LIKE A GLOVE, and performed exactly as they should. @darkstar You're the man

 

[VelocityBrew]

@metroplex, @DAS, and @EddieEcoBoost, thanks for the advice. I think what I’m getting out of your posts is:

1. Tune
2. FMIC
3. Bigger turbos
4. Then maybe it’s worth 3” DPs

Close?

Thanks again.

IMO:
1. FMIC
2. Tune

or

1. FMIC + tune


Power output even stock, I could only describe as UNPREDICTABLE. Car would pull hard, next time had zero nuts. The tune is designed to pull A LOT of timing for high IAT2, and extremely neutered performance for "very high" IAT2s, or heatsoak. The FMIC made the car CONSISTENT, and it's amazing how much more at ease you feel knowing the temps are under control. Just my opinion.

 

[Caleb Snyder]

Ok guys I know everyone has been chomping at the bit to know more about these, so here we go! The wait was more than worth it! I just got done doing some test pulls using the V-box. Test pulls were performed on the exact same road going the same direction each time and launching at the same rpm as when I tested the Garrett and Vibrant intercooler cores. I have not done anything to the car since then except the 3" DP's. The car is an animal now and is having major traction issues in first gear which is why the 0-60 times aren't quite as impressive as the 0-100 times. Driving around town the engine power band is much improved, there is much more power on demand and barely any throttle is used to get going fast quickly. As far as exhaust note/tone there is a subtle difference, it sounds more throaty and deep but nothing that the wife will notice(my car is on completely stock ex other than DPs). Obviously with no cats, there will be a CEL that comes on as the PCM knows they are missing as that is the whole point of the rear o2 sensors. There are ways around this but Im not going to cover that as most of you already know what to do. With that said these are for off road/race use only!


I did 3 pulls so we can get an average of the gains. 0-60mph was 4.7,4.7, and 4.8 seconds. 0-100mph was 10.7, 10.8, and 10.9 seconds. That gives and average of 4.73 0-60 and 10.8 0-100! If you remember from the intercooler test the car ran 4.96 0-60 and 11.53 0-100 on average. So thats a gain of .23 seconds 0-60 and .73 seconds 0-100!!!!!!!!!!!

According to Wallace racing ET/Hp calculator a drop of 7 tenths in quarter mile is a ~70 hp gain!!!



So now onto the downpipes themselves, they are made of T304 stainless steel made in Canada and mandrel bent in the USA. A thick half inch stainlees steel 2 bolt flange is used where they mount to the turbos. 6" long stainless steel flex joints are used as well as 2 o2 sensor bungs located in in the factory location. Everything is hand TIG welded and back purged to get the strongest weld possible.


Price is going to be $1199 + shipping
Ceramic coating will be available in silver or black for additional charge.



Here is some pictures of the downpipes next to stock, installed and V-box results:

Is this still something I can purchase?

 

[OX1]

Is this still something I can purchase?

Hard to say, most companies have stopped selling catless pipes.

 

[MY27FUSION]

what is the allure of cat-less downpipes ?

 

[JRocZilla2.7]

No catless DPs are no longer an option. You can purchase their Hi-flow cat DPs

 

[Nature boy]

Where do I purchase dark star’s DP’s? Have a 2017 fusion sport that is tuned and has steeda’s cold air intake. Just want the catless dps

 

[maydk65]

Don't think any company is going to have cat-less down pipes for sale for the street market. EPA is cracking down on them hard.

 

[Flew]

Where do I purchase dark star’s DP’s? Have a 2017 fusion sport that is tuned and has steeda’s cold air intake. Just want the catless dps

irony

 

[OX1]

Don't think any company is going to have cat-less down pipes for sale for the street market. EPA is cracking down on them hard.

Just read somewhere that E-bay won't even allow listing for this type of stuff used anymore, including tuners.
Not sure on truth to it or ACTUAL policy.

 

[Nature boy]

Should be a market for cat less. After all. We are using them at the track. Not street. 🙄