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*I'm editing this post so it can be stickied and used as a guide. I have learned a few things since posting the original and will annotate those changes in bold to avoid confusion in case anyone reads the full thread.
Short version:
-First change around 1000 miles is the general consensus. Normal interval depends on oil used, climate, driving habits, etc. Many of us seem to like between 5-8k miles. Ford says 10k for normal driving.
-Oil should be 5w30 synthetic or synthetic blend
-Filter is Motorcraft FL2062 or equivalent
-Raise car
-Remove fill cap and dipstick 20-30 minutes prior to draining
-Locate yellow plastic plug that looks like a wing nut under the engine, turn 120 degrees, and pull out to drain oil (I haven't tried a topside change, but some have reported that there are issues with the topside draining proceedure)
-Remove oil filter canister on top of engine (1 1/16" or 27mm)
-Replace 3 O-rings on canister and replace filter
-Replace filter canister in engine and torque to 18ft/lbs
-Replace Drain plug
-Fill with 6 quarts of oil
-Let oil run down into engine for 20-30 minutes
-Replace fill cap and dipstick
More detail about my personal experience can be found below in the long version.
Hey guys, I did my oil change today, and WOW was it exciting. I'm posting this as a public service announcement as well as a how-to. Not that anyone really NEEDS an oil change how-to, but there are a few differences compared to what you might be used to.
I'll integrate the warning/PSA into the guide where it applies.
Raise the car on ramps, jack stands or what ever. I wouldn't try to do this with the car on the ground.
Remove the felt (or whatever material it is) cover from under the engine. There are 2 rectangular clips, one on each side. Remove those by prying the center rectangle out about 1/2 inch. It is easiest if you do that first. Then remove the 10mm screws. You may be tempted to leave the cover on because the drain plug is very near the edge. DON'T! Trust me. *I'm told that you can actually leave the cover on with no issues.
The drain plug is the yellow plastic thingy that looks like a wingnut. Place your pan so the edge of the pan is under the nut, or even further out so the pan is not even under the nut. Remove the oil fill cap and cover with a rag. *I'm told you should remove the cap and dipstick 20-30 minutes prior to draining. One source said that the violent expulsion I experienced is due to pressure in the crank case which is released when you let it vent for a longer period of time. Not sure that makes sense to me, but it can't hurt.
I unscrewed the plug by hand. It's very easy to do and only takes 120* turn. It is secured in a similar fashion to a fill cap. Turn and pull. You can also use an adjustable wrench or pliers if you need to. Get ready to move and relocate you pan as needed.
**WARNING** THE OIL GUSHES OUT WITH ALL THE FURY OF H3LL!!! Imagine a garden hose being uncorked, letting loose pure hate and AIDS. I have never been an oil technician, but I have always changed my own oil. I have never seen oil that wanted to get out of a car like it does in this car. The oil hit my pan with such force it sprayed all over the underside of the car, and I lost about half a quart on the ground. *this section might be obsolete if you let it vent/drain for 20-30 minutes prior.
Now go clean yourself up and change your shirt.
The filter is on top of the engine on the passenger side. I used a large adjustable wrench, but I think it's a 1 1/16 or 27mm. Don't quote me. *while an adjustable wrench will do, but it's difficult to use without marring the canister. After letting the oil drain for a few minutes, unscrew the filter canister and pull it out. >This< is the filter I used. It comes with 3 O rings. Replace the ones on the canister. Make sure the oil filter hole if free of debris. I covered it with a rag and let it drain for a few more minutes. There shouldn't be any mess when you remove the filter from the engine.
Put the filter back into the canister, put both back in the engine, and snug it down about as tight as you can by hand. *Torque to 18ft/lbs
Make sure the oil is drained enough so it's only dripping a drop every few seconds, and the plug hole is free of debis. Replace the plug.
Fill with 6 quarts of your oil of choice. I use Mobil 1 5w-30. The Manual recommends 5w-30 synthetic blend or full synthetic.
Now, I did this at 1315 miles. The oil smelled like gas, was very thin (it was hot), and was as black as my car. The filter had a fairly significant amount of metal filings in it, too. I have never owned a new car, so I don't know if that is normal. I really hope it is. All I can say is that I am glad I didn't run that oil for another 8700 miles like Ford would have me do. I'm gonna have to keep an eye on it. I will be pist if Im getting a bunch of gas in the oil.
Short version:
-First change around 1000 miles is the general consensus. Normal interval depends on oil used, climate, driving habits, etc. Many of us seem to like between 5-8k miles. Ford says 10k for normal driving.
-Oil should be 5w30 synthetic or synthetic blend
-Filter is Motorcraft FL2062 or equivalent
-Raise car
-Remove fill cap and dipstick 20-30 minutes prior to draining
-Locate yellow plastic plug that looks like a wing nut under the engine, turn 120 degrees, and pull out to drain oil (I haven't tried a topside change, but some have reported that there are issues with the topside draining proceedure)
-Remove oil filter canister on top of engine (1 1/16" or 27mm)
-Replace 3 O-rings on canister and replace filter
-Replace filter canister in engine and torque to 18ft/lbs
-Replace Drain plug
-Fill with 6 quarts of oil
-Let oil run down into engine for 20-30 minutes
-Replace fill cap and dipstick
More detail about my personal experience can be found below in the long version.
Hey guys, I did my oil change today, and WOW was it exciting. I'm posting this as a public service announcement as well as a how-to. Not that anyone really NEEDS an oil change how-to, but there are a few differences compared to what you might be used to.
I'll integrate the warning/PSA into the guide where it applies.
Raise the car on ramps, jack stands or what ever. I wouldn't try to do this with the car on the ground.
Remove the felt (or whatever material it is) cover from under the engine. There are 2 rectangular clips, one on each side. Remove those by prying the center rectangle out about 1/2 inch. It is easiest if you do that first. Then remove the 10mm screws. You may be tempted to leave the cover on because the drain plug is very near the edge. DON'T! Trust me. *I'm told that you can actually leave the cover on with no issues.
The drain plug is the yellow plastic thingy that looks like a wingnut. Place your pan so the edge of the pan is under the nut, or even further out so the pan is not even under the nut. Remove the oil fill cap and cover with a rag. *I'm told you should remove the cap and dipstick 20-30 minutes prior to draining. One source said that the violent expulsion I experienced is due to pressure in the crank case which is released when you let it vent for a longer period of time. Not sure that makes sense to me, but it can't hurt.
I unscrewed the plug by hand. It's very easy to do and only takes 120* turn. It is secured in a similar fashion to a fill cap. Turn and pull. You can also use an adjustable wrench or pliers if you need to. Get ready to move and relocate you pan as needed.
**WARNING** THE OIL GUSHES OUT WITH ALL THE FURY OF H3LL!!! Imagine a garden hose being uncorked, letting loose pure hate and AIDS. I have never been an oil technician, but I have always changed my own oil. I have never seen oil that wanted to get out of a car like it does in this car. The oil hit my pan with such force it sprayed all over the underside of the car, and I lost about half a quart on the ground. *this section might be obsolete if you let it vent/drain for 20-30 minutes prior.
Now go clean yourself up and change your shirt.
The filter is on top of the engine on the passenger side. I used a large adjustable wrench, but I think it's a 1 1/16 or 27mm. Don't quote me. *while an adjustable wrench will do, but it's difficult to use without marring the canister. After letting the oil drain for a few minutes, unscrew the filter canister and pull it out. >This< is the filter I used. It comes with 3 O rings. Replace the ones on the canister. Make sure the oil filter hole if free of debris. I covered it with a rag and let it drain for a few more minutes. There shouldn't be any mess when you remove the filter from the engine.
Put the filter back into the canister, put both back in the engine, and snug it down about as tight as you can by hand. *Torque to 18ft/lbs
Make sure the oil is drained enough so it's only dripping a drop every few seconds, and the plug hole is free of debis. Replace the plug.
Fill with 6 quarts of your oil of choice. I use Mobil 1 5w-30. The Manual recommends 5w-30 synthetic blend or full synthetic.
Now, I did this at 1315 miles. The oil smelled like gas, was very thin (it was hot), and was as black as my car. The filter had a fairly significant amount of metal filings in it, too. I have never owned a new car, so I don't know if that is normal. I really hope it is. All I can say is that I am glad I didn't run that oil for another 8700 miles like Ford would have me do. I'm gonna have to keep an eye on it. I will be pist if Im getting a bunch of gas in the oil.
