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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*I'm editing this post so it can be stickied and used as a guide. I have learned a few things since posting the original and will annotate those changes in bold to avoid confusion in case anyone reads the full thread.

Short version:
-First change around 1000 miles is the general consensus. Normal interval depends on oil used, climate, driving habits, etc. Many of us seem to like between 5-8k miles. Ford says 10k for normal driving.
-Oil should be 5w30 synthetic or synthetic blend
-Filter is Motorcraft FL2062 or equivalent

-Raise car
-Remove fill cap and dipstick 20-30 minutes prior to draining
-Locate yellow plastic plug that looks like a wing nut under the engine, turn 120 degrees, and pull out to drain oil (I haven't tried a topside change, but some have reported that there are issues with the topside draining proceedure)
-Remove oil filter canister on top of engine (1 1/16" or 27mm)
-Replace 3 O-rings on canister and replace filter
-Replace filter canister in engine and torque to 18ft/lbs
-Replace Drain plug
-Fill with 6 quarts of oil
-Let oil run down into engine for 20-30 minutes
-Replace fill cap and dipstick

More detail about my personal experience can be found below in the long version.

Hey guys, I did my oil change today, and WOW was it exciting. I'm posting this as a public service announcement as well as a how-to. Not that anyone really NEEDS an oil change how-to, but there are a few differences compared to what you might be used to.

I'll integrate the warning/PSA into the guide where it applies.

Raise the car on ramps, jack stands or what ever. I wouldn't try to do this with the car on the ground.

Remove the felt (or whatever material it is) cover from under the engine. There are 2 rectangular clips, one on each side. Remove those by prying the center rectangle out about 1/2 inch. It is easiest if you do that first. Then remove the 10mm screws. You may be tempted to leave the cover on because the drain plug is very near the edge. DON'T! Trust me. *I'm told that you can actually leave the cover on with no issues.

The drain plug is the yellow plastic thingy that looks like a wingnut. Place your pan so the edge of the pan is under the nut, or even further out so the pan is not even under the nut. Remove the oil fill cap and cover with a rag. *I'm told you should remove the cap and dipstick 20-30 minutes prior to draining. One source said that the violent expulsion I experienced is due to pressure in the crank case which is released when you let it vent for a longer period of time. Not sure that makes sense to me, but it can't hurt.

I unscrewed the plug by hand. It's very easy to do and only takes 120* turn. It is secured in a similar fashion to a fill cap. Turn and pull. You can also use an adjustable wrench or pliers if you need to. Get ready to move and relocate you pan as needed.

**WARNING** THE OIL GUSHES OUT WITH ALL THE FURY OF H3LL!!! Imagine a garden hose being uncorked, letting loose pure hate and AIDS. I have never been an oil technician, but I have always changed my own oil. I have never seen oil that wanted to get out of a car like it does in this car. The oil hit my pan with such force it sprayed all over the underside of the car, and I lost about half a quart on the ground. *this section might be obsolete if you let it vent/drain for 20-30 minutes prior.

Now go clean yourself up and change your shirt.

The filter is on top of the engine on the passenger side. I used a large adjustable wrench, but I think it's a 1 1/16 or 27mm. Don't quote me. *while an adjustable wrench will do, but it's difficult to use without marring the canister. After letting the oil drain for a few minutes, unscrew the filter canister and pull it out. >This< is the filter I used. It comes with 3 O rings. Replace the ones on the canister. Make sure the oil filter hole if free of debris. I covered it with a rag and let it drain for a few more minutes. There shouldn't be any mess when you remove the filter from the engine.

Put the filter back into the canister, put both back in the engine, and snug it down about as tight as you can by hand. *Torque to 18ft/lbs

Make sure the oil is drained enough so it's only dripping a drop every few seconds, and the plug hole is free of debis. Replace the plug.

Fill with 6 quarts of your oil of choice. I use Mobil 1 5w-30. The Manual recommends 5w-30 synthetic blend or full synthetic.


Now, I did this at 1315 miles. The oil smelled like gas, was very thin (it was hot), and was as black as my car. The filter had a fairly significant amount of metal filings in it, too. I have never owned a new car, so I don't know if that is normal. I really hope it is. All I can say is that I am glad I didn't run that oil for another 8700 miles like Ford would have me do. I'm gonna have to keep an eye on it. I will be pist if Im getting a bunch of gas in the oil.
 

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Nice work!

Just FYI, the oil is supposed to meet Ford WSS-M2C946-A spec, which the M1 5w-30 does meet.

Also, you could buy an oil extractor and avoid the flood. :)
 

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You think that gushes you should drain a powerstroke diesel with that same style drain plug and 13 quarts of nasty diesel oil...lol
 

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Will be doing topside changes myself... Especially either the filter right st the very top of the engine.

Had planned on waiting until around 5k for the oil change... May see about doing it sooner now.
 

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**WARNING** THE OIL GUSHES OUT WITH ALL THE FURY OF H3LL!!! Imagine a garden hose being uncorked, letting loose pure hate and AIDS.
First off, this part made me start laughing hysterically in my office. Luckily its only me and one other guy in the office next to me so it wasn't too bad, but holy crap that was entertaining.

On a second note, my plans are to keep checking the oil probably once a week. If I see it start getting real dark just on the dip stick, I will get it changed. My plan is probably around 1500 to 2000 miles do the first change, and from there, I will see how it all goes.
 

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Also the metal shavings are normal, you also will have a bunch of them sitting in the bottom of your oil pan right now. I can only imagine the oil smelled like gas because of the break in period where the piston rings arent fully seated and allowed unburnt fuel down into the crank case. I would definitely not recommend anyone going over 1,500 miles on a first oil change. The oil takes a real good beating during the engine break in, in addition to the things above, you also have the factory lubricants diluting your oil and any other fluids used during the assembly of the motor. This will also include any debris that may have been stuck inside the intercooler that was blown into the engine, debris that could have been inside the turbo chargers as they heated up and wore in as they are lubricated and cooled using engine oil. Its not just the engine contributing to the destruction of the oil in the first few hundred miles.
 

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Nice post BOT_ROCKET. I also changed my oil a few weeks ago and wanted to add a couple of comments that may be helpful.

* It is not necessary to remove the felt cover. I left mine on because I have horrible luck with plastic clips (and I am a lazy *******) and I didn't get a single drop of oil on it.

* After putting the new oil filter into the top half of the enclosure I poured in a few ounces of oil and let the dry oil filter soak in it for a while. After a few minutes I flipped the oil filter and let the other end absorb some oil. I did this to prevent the upper engine from being oil starved upon starting...it may be overkill.

* Hand tight on the oil filter is not tight enough. I tightened mine as hard as I could with my hands. Later that day I drove to the hardware store and bought a 27 mm socket and a 3" extensions. When I got home I used a torque wrench set to spec (iirc ~12 ft-lbs) and my oil filter enclosure tightened quite a bit more. I recommend at least using a socket wrench for this if not a torque wrench. I removed my filter using an adjustable wrench and it was difficult to loosen the oil filter housing without applying torque to it along axes that are not the rotational axis.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thx Auto. I probably should have checked the actual recommended specs before i made a guide. I'm surprised you didnt get a oil on the felt cover. Yours must not be the same as mine. The edge of my cover sits directly under the plug so it would definately get wet when the flow slows down. I might go snap a pic so we can compare notes.
 

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You might try putting a small plastic cutting board or some other piece of flexible plastic between the pad and the drain plug? Sort of a barrier or ramp between the pad and drain. I remember removing oil filters and getting a stream of dirty oil running down my arm and into my armpit back in my auto service career!

Ken
 

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Did my first change today and these posts were helpful. I ended up not removing the bottom engine cover and oil flowed onto it near the end of the drain. Oh well...lesson learned. Once I found the location of everything it was actually very easy. I like the drain plug and filter design/location. My biggest challenge was finding jack stand locations where I wasn't concerned about damage. Darn new cars...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did my first change today and these posts were helpful. I ended up not removing the bottom engine cover and oil flowed onto it near the end of the drain. Oh well...lesson learned. Once I found the location of everything it was actually very easy. I like the drain plug and filter design/location. My biggest challenge was finding jack stand locations where I wasn't concerned about damage. Darn new cars...
Ramps are your friend.

Also, Im thinking about crafting some sort of funnel so I can change it without taking the cover off and to help control the flood. Similar to what kentak said, but I might mold some ABS specifically for the job.
 

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Why not just get an oil extractor and do a top-side change? The oil filter is right on top of the engine, the dipstick is right on top of the engine... Get the oil warm, suck it all dry, replace filter, ad-add oil.
 

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Why not just get an oil extractor and do a top-side change? The oil filter is right on top of the engine, the dipstick is right on top of the engine... Get the oil warm, suck it all dry, replace filter, ad-add oil.
Because that doesn't give me the chance to show off my craftiness, duh.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Fair point. Also just re-read the last post, apparently you can ad-add oil... Awesome!
Yeah, but the cost of the equipment to do so is prohibitive unless you are a big manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey guys, ecoboost performance forum member Zalvern PM'd me with another tip regarding the flood. Here's what he had to say:

"Hey Bot:

I was browsing the Fusion Sport forums and noticed your thread on doing an oil change for the 2.7L engine. I wanted to point out a tip that helps avoid gushing oil.

Always unscrew and loosen the oil filter on top of the engine and let it sit for about 5 minutes at least before removing the oil pan's yellow plug. Apparently pressure is the cause of the oil gushing just like with coolant system. So by removing the oil filter first (you can change to the new filter after oil stops dripping. Give it 20 mins or so) you avoid pressured oil from bursting out of the pan. Best do it when the engine oil is lukewarm to the touch (I use my oil dipstick and just touch it).

It will flow out a lot cleaner and smoother. You won't even need to remove the underbody shield as it will clean it just enough. Have a longbody pan (I use oven roast pans for catching) as it will not drain directly down, but like a calm water hose being held.

Easiest oil changer engines the 2.7 and 3.0 are, its just that small o ring on the filter is tricky.

Hope that helps and feel free to pass this on to others."
 

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So Ford is going back to using a canister oil filter. My 2006 VW GTI had one and it was a pain to change until I bought the special tool to drain it before unscrewing it. VW did get smart and put a spin on oil filter when they made improvements to the 2.0 liter four banger in 2009.
 
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