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Not sure if the 2.7 runs hotter than other motors. Sometimesvwhen I walk by after it sits an hour or so I can getca whiff of heat, very faint. If I put my had on the hood area it is warm not hot after an hour is that pretty normal? I think it is as the motors get pretty hot and being cast iron vs aluminum I think it holds the heat longer.
 

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Same with mine, have to say that it is normal. Probably doesn't help that the engine bay is pretty much totally enclosed. Belly pan keeps air from coming in the bottom and our hood is insulated. So, the engine heat soak has no real help having its heat dissapated.
 

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Yeah, hot is the word. There’s nowhere for the heat to go at all with the engine stuffed in there so tight.
 

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2017 Fusion Sport, 401A, Driver Assistance Package, 33k miles; 1999 Expedition 5.4 4x4
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Yeah, hot is the word. There’s nowhere for the heat to go at all with the engine stuffed in there so tight.
Think it'll ever end up being an issue?

Maybe shorter lives on hoses and other components?
 

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I’d think the heat is less of a problem if the car is moving pretty good. I always felt like stop and go traffic was hard on cars, largely because heat can’t easily dissipate. Then again, modern materials and technology may compensate. Put be down as not having a clue if there will be long term damage.
 

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Think it'll ever end up being an issue?

Maybe shorter lives on hoses and other components?
I’m at 122k and no failures of any hoses, wiring, or plastics under the hood. If it’s hurting anything, it’s sure not showing! If it wasn’t for the mods I’ve made, and the trouble they’ve caused, this car would have been the least expensive over time/miles that I’ve ever owned!

It definitely hurts performance though. I’ve had nights at the track where my times increased by up to 6 tenths over the course of several runs from the heat soak. If I run three times within 30 minutes, nearly back to back, while it’s in the heat of the day, I’ll lose half a second easily. After the sun starts setting and ambient temps drop, it takes about 35-45 minutes shut down with the hood up between runs to manage the heat soak. That’s with the ambient temps dropping as well.
 

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Put a 170 degree thermo in it, and set the fans to come on at 185 190 tops, makes a big diffrence.
 

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Put a 170 degree thermo in it, and set the fans to come on at 185 190 tops, makes a big diffrence.
Will that affect how the efficacy of the heater in the winter months?
 

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No, still blows good heat. That was a concern too, but after doing last winter with it, I will say you really don't notice it. The fans are programed based on Ambient temps A/C pressure and TFT's along , it's all duty cycle. and the hot temp is set at 214 stock. What I do is go in change the hot temp to 185, and bump all the tables except A/C up about 10 to 20 percent from about 80 90 ambient up. I,ll get a screen shot of the tables, then you understand better.
 
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Here,s how I have mine set up now. I could stand to bring the duty cycle up a bit down low, but it seems to hold good at 180 185 tops if I,m not moving
 

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I’m at 122k and no failures of any hoses, wiring, or plastics under the hood. If it’s hurting anything, it’s sure not showing! If it wasn’t for the mods I’ve made, and the trouble they’ve caused, this car would have been the least expensive over time/miles that I’ve ever owned!

It definitely hurts performance though. I’ve had nights at the track where my times increased by up to 6 tenths over the course of several runs from the heat soak. If I run three times within 30 minutes, nearly back to back, while it’s in the heat of the day, I’ll lose half a second easily. After the sun starts setting and ambient temps drop, it takes about 35-45 minutes shut down with the hood up between runs to manage the heat soak. That’s with the ambient temps dropping as well.
What mods have you had issues with?
 

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You really don't have issues with mods, maybe bad installs, but most people do their own. So if there's an issue they have them selves to blame.
 
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My issues with mods have nothing to do with bad install. They’re just results of choices that I made from the limited available resources for these cars. My issues are CELs triggered by persistent cylinder 3&6 misfires; transmission leaking from between the casting halves possibly due to higher line pressure or racing abuse; NVH from the solid motor & trans mounts; more noise and resonance from the custom exhaust. I knew there would be trade-offs and expected to make sacrifices to accomplish my goals with this car and I made those mods eyes wide open. I bought a car that was a refined all-weather grand tourer and made it into a powerhouse that runs with and often past cars that cost twice as much, and it’s still a year-round daily commuter. No complaints, no regrets. That was the plan from the beginning.
 

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My issues with mods have nothing to do with bad install. They’re just results of choices that I made from the limited available resources for these cars. My issues are CELs triggered by persistent cylinder 3&6 misfires; transmission leaking from between the casting halves possibly due to higher line pressure or racing abuse; NVH from the solid motor & trans mounts; more noise and resonance from the custom exhaust. I knew there would be trade-offs and expected to make sacrifices to accomplish my goals with this car and I made those mods eyes wide open. I bought a car that was a refined all-weather grand tourer and made it into a powerhouse that runs with and often past cars that cost twice as much, and it’s still a year-round daily commuter. No complaints, no regrets. That was the plan from the beginning.
Yep. Cylinder 3 and 6 misfires. Not often enough to cause a DTC to set or even a pending DTC, but when it gets bad enough to flash the CEL it is frustrating. There's no rhyme or reason as to why this occurs. I've basically narrowed it down to occurring under boost when the throttle plate transitions open/close suddenly. If I'm WOT, full boost, full spark, it may not have any issues whatsoever. It also seems more susceptible when the ECT isn't quite fully hot (like 180F or below).

I've also isoated the spark plugs and coil packs from causing this, as well as spark advance.
 

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I've also isoated the spark plugs and coil packs from causing this, as well as spark advance.
I’ve wasted so much time moving and swapping and replacing 12 coils and 18 plugs trying to alleviate it. I agree - that’s not the cause. But I have learned to live with it.
 

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I'm 99% sure I've solved my misfire issue. It's all the speed density tuning. When I started dialing in the speed density, one of the equations was off, not even that far, caused limp mode. If the calculations are off, i was getting 100 misfires during a drive at the top of gears, after I dialed it in and dialed in the blowthrough portions of the slope, 0 misfires. This is why the canned tunes all misfire. The stock speed density tables get too far off for the STFT to keep up and even when they do it causes misfires
 
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By top of the gears you mean at WOT? What are you logging to see if the speed density equations were off?
 

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I'm logging MAP by RPM by air load, with each of the 14 VCT mapped points weighted to each table
 
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WOT but even high RPM part throttle would cause misfires before I did a lot of SD tuning
 
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