Adding a subwoofer to 401A? - 2017 Ford Fusion V6 Sport Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Adding a subwoofer to 401A?

I have had 2 12in Alpine subs and a 1000watt amp sitting in my basement since I sold my '02 Focus (got a '13 Taurus before I got my '17 FS). I really want to install at least one in my Sport. Has anyone installed one? I was really underwhelmed by the Sony package and surprised there wasn't even a small factory sub already in the car. My concern is trying to find a path from the battery to the trunk to power the amp, so I was curious if anyone else has done it and could give me a little guidance.

I'm pretty sure I have a line-out converter too. I was also looking for a way to manually turn off the amp at will too. This is because I take my dog with me time to time and didn't want to put him though all the added bass. I was thinking about just running some sort of toggle switch to the glove box or something for the remote wire.

PS, I just found this site today and was looking around the forums. I can see this site is going to get me in to all sorts of trouble I just ordered the ODBLink MX and should have it tomorrow! Cant wait to start tinkering.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 02:28 PM
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I added a RF 12" sub box (pickup truck style) and it fits perfectly against the back seat. I used a LC-2 line output converter and tapped the rear speakers. The hardest part was feeding the 4ga wire thru the firewall to get to the battery. It's not the prettiest install but I can remove it in under 30 seconds if I need the entire trunk>
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-25-2017, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thats pretty much what I was looking for, something simple (doesnt have to be pretty) but can be removed easily. How did you go about routing the power for the amp?

Also while looking at what FORScan can do I see that you can make a change that would give a low level line/pre amp line right from the back of my Sony system. Have you looked into that at all? I couldnt tell if making that change could effect the factory amp/speakers though.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 06:05 PM
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I had to remove the battery so I could pull the cable thru. Getting the cable thru the grommet on the drivers side firewall was a PITA! After that, I ran the cable down the side of the floorboards to the trunk. I used the rear passenger seatbelt bolt as a grounding point.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantra1 View Post
I had to remove the battery so I could pull the cable thru. Getting the cable thru the grommet on the drivers side firewall was a PITA! After that, I ran the cable down the side of the floorboards to the trunk. I used the rear passenger seatbelt bolt as a grounding point.
Did you have to drill a hole in the firewall, or were you able to find one you could run the cable though? Running the cable to the back, did you remove the door sills and run it back?
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:04 PM
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 10:45 PM
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So, it's been awhile since I ventured into the car audio world, like about 8 years to be exact. I ran my power through the grommet in the firewall behind the battery and used the BCM fuse panel #23 a 10amp ATR micro2 fuse "add a circuit" worked just fine for remote turn on. (I later realized that my LOC https://axxessinterfaces.com/product...gory=AX-ADDAMP had a "sensing" / remote output function, doh!)

I only hooked up the left rear speaker for an input to the LOC. Had to crank the level all the way up to hear anything out of the sub...wondering if there is a better speaker to tap into..


I found these threads helpful for the power wire and fuse tap:
http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4905

http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=6278

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 10:53 PM
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Hmm, just found this, which I have totally felt happening as you crank up the volume, the bass stays the same to avoid distortion. See the link below, which sounds like a great idea except it says "may not work with 2017 models".

Variable Line Level Preamp Outputs From ACM (Factory Radio) For Amplifier Upgrades

Note: This guide may not be applicable to 2017 Fusions... as Ford has changed the ACM style and most of the coding that was previously used in 2013-2016 Fusions. Someone would need to test to confirm if it works or not.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 12:47 AM
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My problem, is that I've already got a 5-channel JL amp, and to move to a single-channel for just a sub would cost me the same amount as selling the (now used) 5-channel and buying a single. I've got two sets of JL components waiting around that haven't been opened as well.

The issue I'm having is that I can either add resistors to the factory amp in series with my 5-channel amp and use high-level inputs, or I get something like the newly-release PAC audio AP4-FD21... The problem there is that the AP4-FD21 with the 5-channel also requires a rewire to each speaker (which TBH for the ohm rating of the JL speakers would be a good idea anyway), and I'd lose the surround option (which I have grown quite fond of). The only other option from there, is go for a DSP with 8 or more channels along with the PAC module, and get a SECOND amp to run the two rear-deck lows and front center channel.

I suppose if I'm already buying a second amp, I could make it a 6-channel giving me 10 channels + subwoofer full-active and I'd only lose the front center channel, but it would also require a DSP with enough channels.

So, basically, spend at least $2000 for a full DSP setup with all the needed accessories, or add resistors inline and use high-level inputs and hope it sounds good... Or, sell the 5-channel and buy a single.


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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ike View Post
So, it's been awhile since I ventured into the car audio world, like about 8 years to be exact. I ran my power through the grommet in the firewall behind the battery and used the BCM fuse panel #23 a 10amp ATR micro2 fuse "add a circuit" worked just fine for remote turn on. (I later realized that my LOC https://axxessinterfaces.com/product...gory=AX-ADDAMP had a "sensing" / remote output function, doh!)

I only hooked up the left rear speaker for an input to the LOC. Had to crank the level all the way up to hear anything out of the sub...wondering if there is a better speaker to tap into..


I found these threads helpful for the power wire and fuse tap:
Alternative Amplifier Remote Turn On Wire for Push to Start Vehicles

2017 Power Wire / Amp Install
Does your LOC have gain adjustments? Maybe they are turned way down (same with the amp). I had just installed a single sub in my Fusion Sport. You can check out the thread I started about the install HERE. I had the same question about tapping the rear speakers TL;DR tap both rear speakers. Though I didn't try with just one speaker tapped.

Also maybe check that you have a good ground?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ike View Post
Hmm, just found this, which I have totally felt happening as you crank up the volume, the bass stays the same to avoid distortion. See the link below, which sounds like a great idea except it says "may not work with 2017 models".

Variable Line Level Preamp Outputs From ACM (Factory Radio) For Amplifier Upgrades

Note: This guide may not be applicable to 2017 Fusions... as Ford has changed the ACM style and most of the coding that was previously used in 2013-2016 Fusions. Someone would need to test to confirm if it works or not.
I believe that you would only mod the As-Built for that if you were planning on bypassing the factory amp and intend on running your own to power all the speakers in the car (I could be wrong though, that was just my understanding when I read that post).

Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredC01 View Post
My problem, is that I've already got a 5-channel JL amp, and to move to a single-channel for just a sub would cost me the same amount as selling the (now used) 5-channel and buying a single. I've got two sets of JL components waiting around that haven't been opened as well.

The issue I'm having is that I can either add resistors to the factory amp in series with my 5-channel amp and use high-level inputs, or I get something like the newly-release PAC audio AP4-FD21... The problem there is that the AP4-FD21 with the 5-channel also requires a rewire to each speaker (which TBH for the ohm rating of the JL speakers would be a good idea anyway), and I'd lose the surround option (which I have grown quite fond of). The only other option from there, is go for a DSP with 8 or more channels along with the PAC module, and get a SECOND amp to run the two rear-deck lows and front center channel.

I suppose if I'm already buying a second amp, I could make it a 6-channel giving me 10 channels + subwoofer full-active and I'd only lose the front center channel, but it would also require a DSP with enough channels.

So, basically, spend at least $2000 for a full DSP setup with all the needed accessories, or add resistors inline and use high-level inputs and hope it sounds good... Or, sell the 5-channel and buy a single.
Sounds like way too much work haha. I just wanted to add a little more to the low end so I just ended up adding a single amp/sub.

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